Yeah, allthough visually it doesn't really looks to be any smaller...:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...housing013.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...housing014.jpg

Didn't take more than a hour to exchange them :)
New feed pump (Carter 100gallon/h) also installed.
Attending a dyno day on the 12th march, so fingers crossed it now all works..

Man....we have to wait almost 2 weeks? That sucks :D LOL! If the trend keeps going as it has in the past,this change should also bring up another 50HP at the same boost level? I´m sure you will pass the 450HP line...

Ultra cool.

Just went for some better fuel just across the border today and had the opportunity to tune the maps again and check out the new feed pump, higher fuel pressure setting and the other turbine housing.
All worked VERY well :D
Boost threshold for my own 1 bar boost reference went down 300rpm to about 4030 rpm :)
Boost and fuel was also very stable so tuning was much more easy.
All set for dyno day :cool:

Wally, a quick question: Are you using the stock beetle voltage regulator or the riechert (porsche) one? I'm trying to build a 1.7 type4 for this season, and I was wondering if I could just use the stock regulator, in it's original position, and wire the porsche alternator just like the orig. vw one was.

What regulator is a topic on its own. Get the right one, type4's also work, but not always as good as could be. I use an electronic one.

Anyways,
Got my pics from Julian today Yeah!:
Thanks to Julian Hunt for making these: http://www.julianhunt.net

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMG_5480.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/683J5917.jpg

and some of my buddy Franc his car:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...4.jpg~original

yeah, you're right.. I was just feeling a bit lazy, and wanted to leave all the wiring alone. But I'll use the regulator that came with the riechert kit.
Oh, and great pics!!!

Nice Pics! What is your friend Franc running in his bug?

Type 4 2056cc 44x38, Web86, Remmele exhaust, DTA E48.
Stock gearbox, which then of course broke on the line at Santa Pod on the 2nd run after some expert advice on how to launch from 'some' DKR member :lmao:
Car is very, very nicely done, much nicer then mine and is very light and very good roadholding (I drove it last year).\

BTW, I have bought a piece of (cage) pipe to re-stiffen the right-hand side gearbox fork after I needed to remove one leg of the Cup-strebe because of the turbo's 4" air intake piping..

amazing!!!!!!!!


what are the dimensions of the wheels?

On my car, on drag race set-up as seen above (black wheels), the fronts rims are 3,5x17 size and rears are 7,5x15 iirc.

I understand, these wheels are safe with the car super lightweight

excuse my English, just use the translator hehe!

No, not safe for normal use on the road, ONLY for dragracing!!
The gold centered wheels are for the road and circuit (18")

The car is super heavy by the way, not lightweight at all ;)

Got bored today and downloaded the log from the 1,8 bar (1,8-1,9 ~26.5-28 psi actually) boost 'mishap':
Apperently the alu cylinders can survive this boost! Who would have thought that?
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...bar4700rpm.jpg

Cool! Am I reading this correctly? 4703rpm and the throttleposition is WOT / 100%? The other 2 graphs are going downwards after that except the throttle-it remained opened? Sorry...I´m still learning how to read these things.Or ist that just what the peak was?

Correct!
No, you have to read it from right to left: the car ' drives' from the right to the left, then you see that the rpm is climbing and boost is rising, all under WOT till I take my foot off.
Hope that will make things more clearly?
The vertical line is just a point in time I choose in this example to let the values show. At 280 kPa (1,8 bar or 26,5 psi) boost the wastegate begins to open as boost gradually climbs less from there on. That was about 55 or 60% wastegate duty cycle (not shown or logged). Boost then rises a little further to 1,9 bar (28 psi) but you see the boost control taking boost out and adding it very quickly. Thats the effect of the EBC in action and explains the wavy line at that point onwards.
Hope this helps a bit?

Ok now I understand reading from right to left and the vertical line being your chosen point of reference, thanks! Now it makes sense ;) How were your temps and afr at 1.9 bar?

I'm curious to see temps too and turbo response at lower rpms 3k-4.5k (when it starts spooling to max boost). I have to remember to read your logs right to left (backwards btw ;) ) is that a "feature" or an option with your ecu?

Other than that it looks good, you've got me looking at the bw turbos now, specifically the EFR 8374 with a 87mm turbine and .90 a/r for my 2165cc @ 25psi (current boost limit w/o intercooling).

Dude! What do you think is going on in a bug at 1.9 bar boost and 5K rpm on a public highway (german Autobahn)?
I was lucky to check the boost gauge and notice that too high setting at all :eekno:, let alone watch other gauges :lmao:

The log direction is stock and non changable...It constantly adds log info to the left, so everything shifts to the right as the log info builds.
Its not that strange if your used to it I guess ;)

I agree, the new high tech BW EFR (engineered for racing) turbo's are the shiznizz! The EFR 8374 would have been my choise as well. Pity the twin-scroll version is not due untill a few months, so we have to wait for real-life results. I think the ultimate hp that that one supports might be close to mine. So, its plenty probably :D

Wally,

With your DTA are you running it with MAP as the load for the main fuelling/ignition maps or TPS with MAP multiplication?

Cheers
Paul

Paul,
I have only ever ran TPS.
Now with the turbo motor I use an additional map-sensor for fuel and timing compensation when under boost.

Thanks for that!

A friend is switching from an E48 to a S60 on his turbo bug and is currently using TPS and were weren't sure whether to switch to MAP as load instead of TPS. We will stay with TPS

LOL...I meant the log files:D Or is that not recorded? You must overcome your fears young Padawan and drive on the autobahn every day..:lmao:

Ah! No, those temps are both measured with a thermocouple and the ecu doesn't have the ability to register those. Unless you have an expensive adapter box...

Today was a dyno day, but on the way there, I had almost no boost anymore. Engine runs very well, but no boost :(
I checked and even removed parts of the intake and downpipe (turbo spins fine, no play), but couldn't find a leak or anything, so I returned home. Still no clue as what the cause is.

I wondered about the machining on the turbine space, the gap around the wheel. Is it possible that one of the faces needs to be machined more to tighten up the seal around the wheel?

I am not a turbo guy per se, but it looked like you just added a larger housing to your existing piece, and I wondered if maybe they needed to be matched somehow?

Lame question, but I think you might understand what I'm thinking. It's not like you to do something wrong, and the engine still runs so it's not like you left a rag in there or something, but low boost could be that the air is not being channeled well around the turbine wheel to create boost? Just a thought.

Jason

I understand your question and its a very valid one. This extra turbine house is however meant for a small series of same-size frames.
Most turbo's can be ordered with a variety of turbine A/R's so they all have the same 'form' so to speak.

After some wrenching today it turned out I had an exhaust leak from the complex part where I made the twin exits into one for the wastegate.
I have welded most of it shut now (saw some black traces) and had full boost again :) Not the same respons I had on my trip with this housing to germany last week, but close enough. Maybe I missed a spot, will have to look lateron some more into it.
Pfft..

Specially for Sandeep, my compensation for removing one side of the Cupstrebe as it was in the way of the turbo (inlet):

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...oi-vork004.jpg

Glad to hear it wasn't a problem with your turbo. It's strange that you had no boost though, sounds like that leak was not that small?

Luck and badluck all in one...

This was the perpertrader that made he resonance and had the turbo spool 250 rpm later then before: A piece of the divertor wall I had welded in there broken off and got loose:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...rbouw001-1.jpg

Turbo wheel looks fine and not hit :oops:

that was a lucky escape, not worth thinking about the damage it could of cuased.

...that was a close call! :eekno:

That could have ended very badly! Hopefully you can get that turned around and get it running again soon.

Yeah, did my best today to get it running next weekend. Used a ticker plate and had the divider wall protrude through the tube so I could weld it all the way through. Its 5 times stronger now 4sure and had now room to port the transitions inside the wastegate tubes a little as well :)

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...derbouw002.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...derbouw006.jpg

Is there any reason to go with an external wastegate vs. an internal(turbo housing)? I'm trying to keep it simple, and I can't for the life of me figure out out if the external is necessary for my project.

Jason

Well, the really large turbo's usually don't come internal, but there are advantages if you do have a choise. Most of them are for turbo nutcases only probably, but an external gate has its own exhaust and therefore does not hinder the exit of the turbine wheel. Keeping back pressure close to zero on the downpipe (turbo exhaust side) is what this does and that is crucial to a good turbo efficiency. A little more power can be had by this.
There is also the better boost control if you have a relatively large turbo and run low-ish boost. Internal gates can be somewhat small-ish and boost creep can happen then. External gate usually flow more and don;t experience boost creep.
Thirdly you can rotate the turbine housing more freely (in all positions, 'clocking' the turbo) if you don't have the arm of the internal gate to consider, which is usually attached to the compressor housing. That makes it easier to position the turbo any way you like wrt inlet and outlet openings ;)

This sunday I participated in the "Automaxx Streetpower Toyo Tires shoot-out" pfft what a name...
but it was good fun, lovely weather and good practice to get some seat time in this 1/8th mile event.
100 mile drive one way.
All went well besides terrible traction and one side of the linkage that fell off (twice...) in 2 of the 6 runs I could do. I'll deff weld the arm to the shaft now! :twisted:

First run on a cold track, cold tires and too much boost:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntN1YTjcI

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...t-outAssen.png

Nice pic!

Can't keep a good man down for long. Good to see it back in action.

Now that's a great picture ! Great to hear it roar again.

Sandeep

Sounds great Wally! You can really hear the spool up - very cool!