No, I remember your issue with E Plus...:rolleyes:

As to the Beryllium Copper that is used for valve seats for Titanium valves, it's like around 80% copper with something like 3% Beryllium and 17% of other materials for example to hold the materials together.

My friend no longer works at the EDM shop, he has moved back to Germany. And lasers were not used, it was an electrical charge (Electrical Discharge Machining) on little tiny copper rods or wire.

As to the 356 style lifters, I recommend you pass on those for your Turbo build, the spring pressure needed for boost I think is to much for those lifters.

I recommend you have your bronze lifter bushings machined out to Type 1 lifter diameter and run Tool Steel Type 1 lifters, they will handle the spring pressure and Turbo Spool far better than the 356 style lifters. There are a number of people who carry them.

I liked your cyl's, except for the stud pattern. And your going to need to mock those up on your motor, and I am talking about the crank installed at least one rod per side to determine how much they will have to be shortened to set your deck, due to they need to be machined before you have them plated.

I'll say one thing that I didn't like with my cylinders. Jorge had the Machinst trim my fins. I did not instruct Jorge to trim my fines

You did say fix the cyl's so their usable, since you were not taking them back to the machinist who screwed them up to begin with, and the fins had to be cut in order for you to use them.


If you had tried to mock up the cyl's with the studs you would have found the problem. Jorge had asked me to mock them up on my case to check for any issues with mounting and becase my case was cut for 103mm cyl's and it had the long stroker studs installed.


There are a left & right cyl, the left cyl fit no. 2 & no. 3 cyl position, the right cyl will fit the no. 1 & 4 cyl position in the case, that is partially because of the where the fins are cut so they can sit next to each other and the other side where the notch is to clear the case, then there is also because of the well know fact that the Type lV has the off set stud pattern of which the bottom 2 studs are wider than they are at the top, which means the cyl's can not be fliped upside down .

Your machinist that had drilled the stud holes and trimmed the cyl's for clearance made you 4 left cyl's, and the only fix was to machine all the cyl fins the same so they would fit the stud pattern and have the capacity to cool the same.






http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2.jpg~original
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...6.jpg~original
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...6.jpg~original

Trimming
 

I have not fitted the cylinders with studs. Since I have not done this yet, I may stand corrected. I received the stud pattern from Gregg Riddle, and had a blue print made in order for a CNC progarmmer to input. If what you say is correct, I will need to have a mechine shop do 8 more sets (bummer:o). I will get some ARP bolts and go to the next level.

Richard, you once gave me a name of a rebuilder of speed-o and tach. I tried to find the contact again but don't remember the name. He makes custom gauge face plates. Do you still have or remember his name or site?

"As to the 356 style lifters, I recommend you pass on those for your Turbo build, the spring pressure needed for boost I think is to much for those lifters".

Richard, am I to understand the new 39 gram 356 styled lifter won't be able to withstand the spring rate?

The stud pattern was correct, but what has to be done is the fin designed has to be mirrored, and what happen was the fin design was mirrored which is shown buy your pics with them installed in the case and so was the stud pattern but shouldn't of been. So the fins get mirrored and the stud pattern does not, to get a better idea what I am talking about check against a set of stock cyl's

What do you mean about doing 8 more sets ?


This place does good work.

http://www.paspeedo.com/porsche914combi.htm




For the money you have in this motor, it's not worth even taking a chance. I have a set of the E Plus 356 Style lifters & the New design Aluminum bushings, and I will run 110 pds seat & it will be 270 pds over the nose with Beehive springs but I am running N/A. You should have at the very least 170 pds seat and at least 350 pds over the nose and those lifters are not going to handle those pressures very long especially when the turbo spools and the rpms jump.

The Tool Steel Type 1 are much stronger, and better than that would be to go roller...:cool:

But it's your decision.

udo Becker
 

Is there any copmany state side selling tool steel lifters?



All of my gauges are in good working order. I need custom face plates, I bought some dual cht/egt gauges and I would like to have everything uniform, it possible.

A couple of Tool Steel lifter options in the link:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie...tButton=Search

If you would of search their site, you would of found they do custom face plates.
http://www.paspeedo.com/porschecustomcoloring.htm

Edm
 

Richard is it possible for me to go to the shop your friend use to work and have them perform the service on my new lifters. I'd really like to have the lifters drilled (with EDM) like I had the 356 lifters done.

I don't think it's necessary and I don't recommend it. And if you go with the Tool Steel Type 1 lifters, just leave them alone. They are not broke, so don't fix them.

And I have seen a couple sets of Type 1 lifters that went bad and it looked like it was because of the oiling hole ?

But if you have to have it done, any EDM shop can do it.

http://www.qualityedm.com/

http://www.manta.com/cmap/mryctbd/reliable-e-d-m

Hi Richard, well you know me:o, I'm still batting zero, but what the hay:D. With all of the oil pressure my oil pump will be capable of putting out having extra oil for lobs and rockers I don't think will hurt anything. My PSI regulator will be set for 80 I don't want that oil pump 33 or 35mm just bi-passing oil back into the sump. I'll have the lifter resurface for sure, thanks.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...8.jpg~original
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...9.jpg~original

Lifters
 

Ok I have the type one lifters, but I'm told that I may need new mechinst services of which may cause the old bushing total removal and new ones. Wow it feel like I'm doing everything twice bummer.

Also I will need to re-think the oil pressure regulator. My needs are to maintain 80 psi, shag, the person I bought the lifters from stated Jack Sacchette filter housing had an internal 80 psi setting. For me the problem of oil pressure regulating has been traced to dissimular metals (steel piston) Alum housing and there expansion rate.

Me again:D, I now have heard another way to go is with BMW bearings. Can you shed some light on this? From what I have heard all of the bearing will be halves and using BMW steelbacked bearings; as an update/better mouse trap:o.

When I had my case done, my bearings cam all Alum.

BMW bearings for the type IV case
 

Ok, now I have learned that, only a type IV case using stadard bearing, can use the BMW bearings:confused:. I was told that I will need to stick with stock 20 over bearing.

effvee which of the BMW bearing can be used in the t4.