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Maybe Holzapfel is a known name for you, if not, he builds the "overfly" Type 4 engines, welding together 911 heads to 4-cyl.-specs, belt driven overhead cams on 2.9l Type 4 engines, producing 245 "racetrue" bhp, just for a few customers, who can afford such a beast.
I'll scan the Apfelbeck pictures in, if you're interested.

If you could, I would like to see those pictures too :)

Sam C

i have heard the name, but not have been to able to really dig up any inoformation about vws in europe, yet but i will definately have to research his name in the next days. If you could spare the time, i would really appreciate if you posted the pics. where i live in hawaii, people here tend to stick only to the cal-look and will not really adventure into different approaches to motor building. so info like this, does not readily come around. thanks and cheers, chris.

Oliver-

I was just curious, what is your opinion on C/Wing a 66mm crank?? Its going to be a daily driver, not to be reved over 6000. Would it be needed, or would it be overkill?

Also, I'm wanting quite a bit of torque, and was wondering if I should go with a 1910cc (66X96) or get a 71 crank/rods and step up to a 2056. It would be put on the highway quite a bit though as well, as I am in LA. So far, this is what I've figured, wether to be a 1910, or 2056...

1.8 case
Stock rods, shot-peened, ARP bolts installed
KB Hyper Pistons (96s)
42X34 valves, 8.5:1CR, moderate head work, (de-burred, slight enlarging of ports, nothing too drastic) new seats, cromo retainers, etc...
40 IDFs OR DRLAs
Web-Cam, grind #86 w/ matching lifters
OP DTM cooling system
210 flywheel, stock weight
Mallory UNILITE dizzy (I've heard many GREAT things about this, I refuse NOT to have one!!!)
completely lost for ideas about exaust, BAS maybe.....or something custom???


Thanks for any help you give, it's truly appreciated.

Eurolook,

I have almost the very same engine, you're talking about. You will not need to C/W the crank, as it is a very stout unit, but I do recomend you get all of the bottom end balanced as one unit(crank, rods, flyewheel and clutch assembly), spend the money there.
The heads will work about the same with just a quality 3 angle grind, and a bit of porting on the exhaust side(you can do this yourself, not much needed, since you're not planning to spin the engine past 6,000RPMS) and you may be able to use the money you saved towards a good exhaust system. Always think of an engine as one unit, and get the pieces accordingly to work in unison. since you want torque, get something like the Web86, or something smaler. Your valves are big enough, not the bigest, but big enough to flow for this size engine.
The mallory unit is definitely recomended, as it will simplify your timing and tuning, while giving you a constant "pulse"

The 1910 is a great engine. I have a different setup, where my camshaft has just a bit more duration than stock, but almost no overlap(turbo grind) and .500" lift(I have smaller valves on the intake)

The DTM is a great unit. Make sure you get all of the surounding tin as well(saves you time and in the end, money too) all of the work is done for you, and it completely seals the engine bay. Get a good quality set of plug wires, and Scirocco Bosch plugs, and you wil be set.

make sure your carbs are jetted propperly and that you have a good quality linkage system. Since you want low down torque, get venturies on the smaller side of the scale, and use the 44IDF Air Velocity stacks with taller intake manifolds(sort of like a ram air effect) The 40's is the perfect size for this engine, trust me.
i would get a ighter flywheel, it's worked for me on a smaller engine.

Hope this helps.



Ephry