yeah I know the 86 is a weird yr. Thanks for you help Wrench. Check out this link, how much aplies to a beetle ThanksJR http://www.elephantracing.com/projec...ngplatediy.htm

Mainly the part about removing the old bushings, and the part about starting with the two bolts on the spring plate in the middle of adjustment. Those bronze bushings look sweet, but overkill for street car...

k so now what axles do you go with?? custom ones or some sort of stock vw/911/944 homologation?? just curious cause thats were i'm at with my project

I was just going to measure and see what out there, I also up in the air on what tranny I want to run. I think there is some info around here, I'll take a look.........JR

hello just measures my void, and its 54cm -540mm
-type 1 irs with alloy arms

-i need some drive shafts, i am hoping they are stock t25 length
:D

Hi

Can you tell me where you bought these. I cant find them on Pelican.

Steve

Weltmeister is the word
 

Steve-

I checked the Pelican website and you are right, the site no longer lists the item for the 944, only the 924. You may wish to call them and inquire. The bushings I got from them have " Weltmeister 017 " cast into them.

As a fallback in the case that they are no longer available, I would suggest that you use aftermarket beetle torsion caps and outer bushings.

-Mark.

Hi

Thanks for that, I already have a set of spring plates with the rubbers removed. I need to check, but I think that the 924s used the same spring plates as the 944.

Steve

Did you have to cut a window in the casting to adjust the spring plates ?or is there enough room for a spanner?

Grinding a some off the casting will give enough room behind the spring plate. Some will require more than others. The bolt heads on mine have about 2 or 3mm before hitting casting. I have not driven the car with this set-up yet so, I may need to gring some off if I have any contact. A very thin spanner can fit behind the plate (about 5mm or less thick).

Hi

Regarding using the adjusting nuts, I saw a post on here where the most forward bolt heads were welded to the spring plate backs, they only actually lock the spring plate, rearward nut is the adjusting one. I did this on my old 1302 and it worked fine, I also thinned the bolt faces down bit so that I didn't need to grind as much off the chassis.

Steve

Yes, you can weld the bolt closest to the torsion bar. I would just "tack weld" the head of bolt in a few spots though (to much heat can cause the metal to become hard and brittle). I have an idea I'm going to do with mine that I will show when I have time (not much longer) to work on it. ;)