I used a balljoint boot for mine.

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-Dave

Moar updates
 

Got the chassis back from strippers/powdercoaters and it looks really nice. They plugged up all the threaded holes and the torsion housing so I don't need to tap anything or grind any powdercoat away. Getting ready to get the seals glued on and the holes punched in em.

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So I wanted to see how bad that bubbling paint really was... I kind of wish I hadn't. Stuck an exacto knife into the rust. I've decided I'm going to have the entire body media blasted. There is a local company that specializes in blasting bodies using a copper shot medium. I'm dreading finding out the magnitude of decay on this body. Heater channels and lower half seems solid, but who knows. Any tips or links to rust repair that anyone can recommend would be great. There aren't panels for the section right below the rear window, so I'm leaning towards neutralizing the rust with a chemical, grinding the majority of it away and then repairing it with the correct type of filler... not just bondo everything. Large rust spots will be cut out and replaced with sheet metal. I'm hoping it is only small holes that need patching.

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So, this motor was originally set up with the FAT shroud. The breather tower was machined down accordingly. I am planning on running DTM V2 cooling system. I am wondering if I am going to run into problems because the tower was machined? Since I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a cooling system, I wanna ask. Should I go with the DTM? I know the numbers say so, but a lot of people on here still run the 911 shroud. Being in the states, I don't really have access to the Rolf shroud. Seemingly the only good aspect of a 911 shroud (Sharpbuilt, FAT, Bergmann, etc) is that they look cool. This just doesn't justify it to me... but maybe someone else can shed some other perspective.

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Just a pic of the inside, fairly clean and rust free.
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thinking about all this body work, I have found some inspiration and settled upon a paint color. This car is gorgeous.
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Hi

Not sure about where you are, but down here most earlier 12 volt style bugs don't rust in the lower window area, you might be able to find a clean piece of body metal from a damaged body.

The window size changed in 72 but it got bigger on the top.

Steve

Your breather tower on the engine looks ok for a DTM. You will have to drill holes for the alternator stand mount and cut off the lug that that bolt is sticking thru so it will clear the apron of the car when you install the engine.

NO_H20, I got off the phone with RAT enterprises and told them about my breather tower situation. They told me that in order to make the DTM work, I would have to machine a block to regain the height that was machined off. He said that Jake did this once, and vowed to never do it again. Dean, the guy I spoke with did not see the picture of the breather tower so perhaps he envisioned a more severe machining of the tower? I do have access to a machine shop and a 5 axis cnc if needed, but at this point I am a bit fed up with the minuscule details that I need to accomplish to get this damn thing working.

Locally, a shop who does a lot of type 4 conversions has told me they have had success with the bergmann unit. One mechanic in particular told me that he has seen consistent and close CHT between 1&3 and 2&4 with 4 temperature transducers. I'm so torn because I read on here that the bergmann unit is crap and I'll freeze 1&3 and roast 2&4. Then locally they tell me it will work fine, and under full load he never saw the heads rise above 320. Is this really hot, I know Jake considered 300 to be roasting, but I am in the desert, Arizona.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

NO_H20, can you give me a definitive yes or no on the DTM working with my breather tower? Sorry I'm obsessive compulsive and start twitching when answers are left open ended!:confused:

Your tower looks fine. A FAT shroud does lot require the machining that other 911 shrouds do. Zen went from a Fat 911 shroud to a DTM with no issues. Hell Jake's guys did it. No shims or machining required.
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You will have to cut the lug off that the long bolt is sticking thru in you picture. It will hang on the apron when you try to install the engine. You will also have to drill the dimples that the stock breather bail went in. They will then take the bolts (horizontal) that secure and adjust the mounting block inside the breather tower for the DTM alternator stand blots (vertical under alternator).

You revived my dreams! thanks! Is that a carbon fiber shroud? Looks really clean with that DTM breather box.

My breather tower already has horizontal bolts drilled into it... Hard to see, but there is a hole where the red crap is and another on the other side.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6...0eb70f2a_z.jpg

No that is a fiberglass V2 DTM. It has a paint treatment that that floats on water, then the shroud was dipped in it.

Paint
 

Alright, I've been making some big moves in the past couple months. Graduated from engineering school, got a sweet job as a process engineer at a medical device company, moved up north into a new house, and...

I worked on my bug.

Took the body to get media blasted, came out nice. I put a cap on how much I wanted to spend, so certain areas weren't stripped. In hindsight it would have saved me a lot of time from cleaning had I just blasted the whole damn thing. I think when you begin a project, you are more cost focused and as you get tired of scraping, brushing, scrubbing, and cleaning you begin to spend more to spend less time.

I'll cut to the chase.

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As I mentioned before, I moved up to Northern Arizona and the body shop that I did all my work in is in Phoenix so the body shop owner sent me pictures from his phone so the quality isn't that great. I'll post better pictures when I go down to get it. Essentially, I sprayed all the primer, did all the blocking, hammering, welding, and body work. I ended up letting the owner of the shop spray base and clear for me. I spent so much time blocking that I didn't want to mess it up in the last step.

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Wanting to transport this about 150 miles north. Contemplating Uhaul or paying someone to freight it or throw it on a trailer. Any ideas?

Nice color, that's going to be a great GL!

I agree with Gerrelt! That is some awesome work you have done!

Looks very nice. I would drop it onto a pan secure all the parts with every other bolt so it does not get racked, use towels so the doors, hood, etc. don't rub, push it up on a trailer and drag it home.

+1 on the color, that will look great in the sun. I'm with Dave, if you can get it on a pan to secure it and make it a roller, transport might be easier. You also wont have to worry about the body springing and putting cracks in the paint.

Thanks for the thumbs up guys!

As far as assembling the car into a rolling state, it won't be possible. When I moved, I had the movers pack all my parts and bring them up to my new house to simplify the move. I get what you mean by bolting the body parts on, but hopefully I can secure them well enough. I'll need a lot of blankets and foam wrap.

The pan is still at my old place and I am planning on putting the body on the pan inside the Uhaul, maybe put a few of the pan bolts in. I think I'm going to play it by ear and bring a few friends along to make the lifting easy. Wish me luck, I am doing it tomorrow. Taking a shuttle south to PHX, renting a Uhaul, then driving back up.

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Still need to wetsand at 1500-2000 grit, then polish. I'm really happy with how it came out. Spent about $2k all said and done for all materials, renting the booth, and some labor. Much better than the 4-6K quotes I received from quality paint shops. Hell, Maaco wanted to charge me 2K.

I learned a lot, and feel pretty confident in my body work skills. That being said, I hope I never have to do extensive body work ever again.:shake:

I moved mine in a box trailer. I had a similar stand under mine to the one in your photo. I slid the legs of the stand in to some channel that was welded in to the corners of the box trailer so it didn't need to be tied off. I then inserted some thread through the top of the stand and in to the pan bolt holes so the bofy didn't need to be tied to the stand.

No marks left on any paint anywhere and it arrived with no problems. I also had removable wheels on the legs of my stand so I could roll it around the garage as well.

Yogie

Good to see it made the trip without any troubles.

Beautiful, great job!

Jason

Here's a question. Is there anything I should do before I mate the body to the chassis? Like run the brake lines?

Many like to do as much as possible before mounting the body.
Dash, headliner, doors, windows, wiring can all be easier with the body up on the stand.
The whole chassis can be much easier when it's not hidden under the body.
Takes a few more people to lift the body into place, but a good excuse for a party, no?

On the chassis side, brake lines, pedal cluster, clutch and accel cable, transmission, rear suspension and brake master are all easier with the body off the pan. Save the shifter for after the body is on the pan.

Don't forget the Bakelite heater outlets on the body!

-Dave

Hey Dave,

I'm not going to be running heater channels in the car, but I know you can't put them in after the body is mounted. Should I just put them in so down the road if someone wants heat they can? Or just block them off?

Quick update. Body is mounted! Two of the "pan to body" bolt holes that go along the back seat are misaligned. I can get all the other bolts lined up except those two rear passenger side bolts. I will just have to dremel the body hole a bit larger. Other than that I am freaking excited!!! Hopefully quick progress the next months.
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Also, show of hands. Flared fenders or regular? I was thinking maybe flared rear and regular front.

Shipping to the US is going to kill me.

It is always nice when it starts looking like a car again.

Moving right along.
 

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Fenders arrived!!! Fitment is pretty sweet! Will post soon, need to get ready for work.

Actually... One teaser.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8...37400883_b.jpg

Ok maybe 2.

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I was worried the tires wouldn't tuck nicely, but seems like the fitment couldn't be any more perfect!

Nice! Kerscher ones I see ;-)

Yup Kerscher all the way! CSP don't have bumper bracket holes and I want to run bumpers.

I'm rebuilding my 944 cv joints. Is the orientation of the inner race to the outer race directional? I the inner race has some wear on one side so I flipped it around so the balls will rest on the other side as some have claimed. There is pitting on one side of the inner race. Once assembled, the whole cv assembly telescopes inward and outward, but it seems to telescope more on one side (worn side?). Also, if the cv gets turned too far, the whole thing ceases up, but I think this is beyond the operation of the cv once installed.

Should I just replace my CV's completely?

Replace them. They are a wear item.

how much where the fenders shipped to your house? id love a set, but they seem quite pricey. and how long did they take to arrive?

All 4 fenders with shipping was about 1100 US dollars. Then they get you at customs again. Unless you have a import broker who will do it for free. Tack on about another 300-400 dollars to get them through customs. I ordered over Christmas so they kept getting bumped from the ship date. Took maybe a month. Yeah they are expensive, but in my mind stance is one of the most important parts in a car looking just right. I am
Proud to say that I am one of very few in The states with these fenders. My bug is unique and I love it! That's part of the awesomeness of the germanlook, it's not just another empi dragster!

wrenchnride,

Are the 944 CV's directional? I've noticed taking them apart that the inner race has an F stamped onto the outer face. Does this face have to point outward always?

well i must say that after my fenders i bought about a month ago from markVfiberglass, i WISH i would have just went with the Kerscher fenders. i just posted pics of my fenders i got in my build thread on here. i got them cause their the closest thing i could find state side that looked like the kerscher fenders i paid $740 shipped to my work. i have about 80hrs into them just to get them to work/look right. ill never again buy a product from markvfiberglass.

i must agree, stance is everything, thats also why i love the german look style. ive been inlove with the style ever since i saw it in a old vw performance book i had when i was 16yrs old. ever since then its been my dream to build and own a proper awesome german look. cal look is sooooooooooooooooooooo over done. one thing i dont like about hot vw's mag... all they seem to cover is cal look. IMO. well congrats on the awesome fenders. keep up the progress.

Thanks Cook, I'm really trying to make some moves on the car after being a bit stagnant for a while. Going to pull the trigger on a DTM cooling system soon if I hear back from Raby on the forums that my engine in fact can run the system.

Another note, I have a very slow leak from the drain plug of my 911 transmission. A drop develops on the bottom of the transmission over a period of a couple days. Any suggestions as to remedy this? Let it sit? Supposedly they don't usually leak since trans fluid is so dense.

I'd try Teflon tape to see if that helps.

Drain, clean/degrease both surfaces, locktite 518 to the treads and fill-er-up.

Teflon tape is best used on household plumbing ;) Liquid thread sealers are the way to go in automotive apps.