Hi Guys

Thanks for the kind words, still lots to do.

I decided at the beginning of this build to fit early Golf (later Mk1) switch gear and to mimic the wiring layout of the same model Golf with 16 fuses but the blade type.

The ignition switch / wiper & blinker switch housing fitted with a bit of fettling, the wipers feature electric pump activation and variable intermittent wiping and the blinker feature Euro parkers (side lights) i.e. when you leave the blinker on with the motor off the parkers come on, on that side of the car, not sure if this is a good idea or not.

The Golf switch gear feels much more modern as well. I also kept the old lock barrel and door handles from my old yellow bug when I sold the car as I had just fitted Audi lock mechanism to them, these feature reversible keys, as in you cant put the key in back to front, good when your getting old.

The mudguards I'm using are Aeros like I used on my old 1302, they take 911 headlights, I bought these headlights from Design 911 in the UK when the AU$ was OK against the pound.

Fuel system is a Carter lift pump with a Injection Perfection surge tank and a 044 main pump, the main pump is controlled by the factory Subaru boost sensitive pump speed controller, this area needs finishing off in the boot, I had to get the car running meet a local registration deadline.

Steve

Hi

I had my friend Westy make up a 3 inch exhaust for me. It has a high flow cat, 3 inch hot dog and dual pass muffler that has a 180 degree bend to turn the gases around again, its reasonably quiet.

Its a pretty trick bit of work and it only takes about 10 minutes to get off.

Steve

100mm forward
 

Ok then, now I know that I just should go for it. About a year ago I bought a rear axle housing I think the guy said it was from a station wagon. I won't need the axle tubes, but I still need the structure for safety reasons. The horns I won't need and I really won't a automatic. Man I am going to have my hands full. So longer axles and no more than 28 degrees on the CVs and I should be ok. Sand sport stated you could get 500 to 1000 turbo horses from a SVX wow. We just bought a house, now I can get started. So much money on the type IV engine. It's a good thing that I have three bugs:cool:

Hi

Ricola (user on here) did a similar thing to me, but much more well thought out than mine.

Steve

Nice project! Everything is well done,looks great!

Hi

I've been a bit slack with my bug, no excuses but frankly after the setbacks I had with our local registration people I lost interest.

I'm back into it now, I took the car out for an inspection by an accredited engineer. He only had verify that my brakes were OK.

Just a reminder of what I was using for brakes, I was using a stock 19mm master cylinder with, 996 rear callipers on the front with Porsche 930 rotors and 944 rotors on the rear with Boxster rear callipers.

I had used these very same brakes on my old 1302 and they worked fine. The accredited engineer found that my brake pedal was spongy when stopping from higher speeds, I've never driven the car faster than 80 kph, he was doing his tests from 100 kph.

There was two issues, he felt a bigger master cylinder was needed so I fitted a CSP 20.64, this improved the pedal dramatically, the other thing he pointed out was that at the spot where the brakes were meant to operate the pedal pivot point was going over centre.

This was caused by the master cylinder being slightly further away from pedal cluster owing to the thick plate I welded to chassis when I moved the master cylinder 25 mm away from the clutch pedal so that I could fit clutch master cylinder in next to the brake master cylinder.

I remade my brake pedal and pointed the pivot point a few degrees further back towards the driver.

So I took the bug out to have it rechecked, it passed with flying colours and using his very sophisticated testing equipment it recorded 1 G reading under brakes. The engineer will post me the report and then I can get this thing on the road.

Steve

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I fitted much larger reservoirs

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i just looked thru your build thread. awsome build. where can i get one of them rear spoiler/ whale tale wings? and how much?

Hi

Thanks coming from you that's a real compliment. I think I paid about $800 for the whale tail, you can get them hear http://www.beetleracing.com.au/home.html

Steve

A couple of camera phone pics

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thanks, im no one special tho. just a young guy that loves tinkering with VW's. thats not a bad price for the wing. i just got done putting in a WBX 2.1 into my super. im soooo happy i did it too. now if i can just get the megasquirt issues i have figured out, id be really stoked!!! lol heres a pic of mine as it sits now. future plane are to put a suby wrx turbo on it, and intercooler, this winter will be body work and paint, then drive the hell outta it.
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Congratulations on getting through all the red tape Steve! Now get out there and scare yourself silly!

Rich

You would not believe the rings of fire they make us jump through to get modified cars here legalized but it does have it's good reasons.

Helps to ensure that the cars on the road have been modified in a safe manner.
It would be hard to feel safe out on the roads with some of the aborted backyard hacks I've seen people driving around overseas :shocked:

Hi

Well I finally have the green light from the powers that be.

The car is having blue slip inspection on Friday, this is a bit like an annual roadworthy inspection but a bit more detailed, then I pay about $1000 to the insurance company for 3rd party liability & the RMS (roads and maritime service) and then I can drive the car.

I have been trying to get the car passed since April this year, the car has undergone another two inspections by the RMS one to check that all defects have been cleared, over track, wheelbase too long, only one catalytic converter etc then an almost 2 hour inspection to make sure the body wasn't a Mexican one, they suspected this as I fitted new wind-up Mexican windows in the doors even after I pointed out to them that the other 6 windows contained Australian and German glass.

I cant wait to finish the car but I found a noise in G50 which will need to be attended to very soon before too much fun is had.

Steve

Hi Steve, man that sounds like a headache, and a lot more dollars, cant wait to do mine now. What did you change to overcome the wheelbase and track issues?

I am glad we do not have to not have to jump thru hoops like that here. Great to see it ready for the road.

Hi

I fitted caster bushes back to front and fitted K=Mac strut tops to fix the wheelbase issue, I was 30 mm over.

The rear track was the issue, it was only slightly over, I bought some $400 18x8 57 Et Porsche Cayenne alloys on eBay, these reduced the track by 34 mm.

Steve

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Hi

I was going to leave my car overnight so it could be checked for the blueslip, the owner of the shop was worried about leaving the car overnight so he did the inspection on the spot.

Tomorrow I'm of to pay my money and then I can drive the car.

I've driven the car 50 or 60ks when I had to get it checked, never a problem, I was pulled up by the Highway Patrol on the way a home a few ks from my house.

I said to him I suppose you want to know why I have no number plates on the car, he said that and I wanted to have look at it.

I explained that I had just been for a blue slip, when he saw my name it turns out we knew each other 35 years ago and he was a VW head back then, small world but I live in the biggest city in Australia, not as big as other cities in the world but still freaky.

Part of the blue slip process was a brake test, the blue slip station is supposed to attach a special machine to car which measures speed, pedal pressure, deceleration etc.
Most guys can do this test sitting in their office chairs by swinging the machine a certain way. The place I took my car to has a floor mounted machine, you can see the plates in the photos.

Steve



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Looking good, you must be very happy.

I don't understand this. Mexico never manufactured or assembled a 1303 (or a 1302). :idunno:

Hi

oasis I know that VW Mexico never made 1302s or 1303s, I think most VW people do as well but the bureaucrats had to be satisfied, I had play their game. It all stemmed from me fitting 2 new wind up windows that were marked "made in Mexico"

The car is now legal to drive, so I'm tweaking a few suspension things at the moment.

Steve

I thought that was just something for us Yanks. ;)

I went through similar nonsense when registering my VW Pickup (Golf-based Caddy in other markets) several years back. The kicker was the stinking thing was actually built in Pennsylvania -- a neighboring state -- and they wanted to tag it as a special case working class truck as if it were some heavy duty 2-ton affair. After a crapload of documentation going back and forth, I finally got it registered as if it were a Ford F-150. Luckily, my insurance company still recognized it as basically being a Rabbit (Golf).

Hi

Oasis I think bureaucrats are world wide phenomenon.

One thing I forgot to mention, I've fitted inertia real seatbelts in the original VW location with reel axle running east west across the car, they sent me letter to say that my seatbelts were mounted incorrectly, thanks to the local VW community I was able to send them 10 photos of stock bugs with the seat belts mounted like I had done.

I'm using a Eboost 2 to control boost, what a great Aussie invention, I'm gradually turning the boost up and as Ricola suggested I'm scaring myself, what's amazing is I'm yet to get and wheel spin the tyres I'm using are street/race tyre and stick very well.

I'm loving the ratios of the G50, 1st gear is amazing, it just leaves all the traffic behind before a gear change is needed.

Steve

Hi

Oasis I think bureaucrats are world wide phenomenon.

One thing I forgot to mention, I've fitted inertia real seatbelts in the original VW location with reel axle running east west across the car, they sent me letter to say that my seatbelts were mounted incorrectly, thanks to the local VW community I was able to send them 10 photos of stock bugs with the seat belts mounted like I had done.

I'm using a Eboost 2 to control boost, what a great Aussie invention, I'm gradually turning the boost up and as Ricola suggested I'm scaring myself, what's amazing is I'm yet to get and wheel spin the tyres I'm using are street/race tyre and stick very well.

I'm loving the ratios of the G50, 1st gear is amazing, it just leaves all the traffic behind before a gear change is needed.

Steve

Hi

A I few goodies arrived last week.

A Griimspeed cross pipe, good for 5 HP and a AVO solid boost control solenoid.

Steve

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That ^^ doesn't seem like a solonoid but more like a original-style wastegate actuator with a more rigid bracket?
Neat thingy nevertheless ;-)

Hi Wally

Sorry I meant actuator

http://www.avoturbo.com/avoshop/soli...ries-p-56.html

I read about using this actuator here http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1824/printArticle.html

Hi

I just went and had the car wheel aligned, I've been going to same wheel alignment shop for the last 40 years, same equipment is still in use.

The G50 transmission is out of a low kilometre Japanese import, it has a noise in it, so the gearbox will be removed soon to repair it, not happy as its so much fun to drive. I bought the transmission so long ago that there's not any hope of warranty.

Steve

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Hi

Well gearbox is out and I took to Michael Newton Automotive at Mulgrave to get him to strip it down.

His shop is small but impressive, he had a few million dollars worth of Porsche track & and street cars sitting around.

He warned me that G50s are a noisy box anyway and as I've made it well mounted in the chassis that could be the cause of the noise.

So when he stripped down couldn't cant find anything wrong with it, he said that its in very good condition with none of the usual wear areas. So it appears that my noises are caused by my mounting method.

I have a stock G50 mount at the front of the transmission, two Kombi bellhousing mounts like a top mounted Berg style mount and stock WRX/STI mounts under the motor.

So I ordered a Quaife diff for it and he will replace a few bearings just to be sure and its better to setup a new diff with new side carrier bearings.

A used ZF diff was about $3500 the Quaife was about $1700 au

Its in good company at the shop as its full of Porsche Cup cars.

To get the gearbox out again, I had to remove the rear bumper, rear apron and partially remove the rear mudguards, not something I want to be doing too often

Although this will be an expensive exercise Im will feel more comfoatable now driving the car, I felt every noise coming from my G50 was it grinding itself to pieces

Steve

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Hi

My AVO solid boost control actuator had a manufacturing defect, when I pointed it out to them, they sent me an upgraded billet unit, great customer relations.

Steve

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Hi

I installed some extra gauges and this left no room for switch gear, I moved the switches down to where the fan switch and vent control normally sit, I'm making billet panel to replace the hacked up plastic one shown here.

Steve

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Hi

I fitted some NOS CV boots, I think that the rubber may have perished.

I'm running a lot of angle so that wouldn't have helped so I bought some better boots from eBay, the have many more ribs in them which will help I think.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

Why have you got two fan switches Steve?

My CV boots (genuine GKN) only lasted a few days! Right now I've ended up with the race type boots on the outer and big off-road silicone ones at the inners when I have space..

Good job fitting a diff while your in there! I can here my G50 pretty good too, but only always on deceleration. I knew the G50 is a bot noisy from itself as porsche did go pretty far on the insulation on the shifter opening and even the shift rod itself is packed in foam-like material. That was a good clue for me, LOL!

Hi

I use one fan switch for the dash fan and the other one is for the heater, its under the back seat.

The heater under the back seat is from the rear of a Toyota Troop carrier and blows up the factory heater channels.

When I got the news that the transmission was in good shape I decided that I had some spare cash to buy the Quaife.

I had a Quaife in my 1302 and it worked fine, I know that they are not the ultimate but they don't have any handling vices.

The Porsche gearbox guy was saying that they used a lot of things keep them quiet, dual mass flywheel and blankets over things, apparently the blanket over the transmission used to soak up oil and catch fire

Steve

these are the CV boots I bought from eBay

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

It's looking really sharp - shame about the gearbox - i feel your pain as i had my 915 rebuilt after doing about 100 miles!

How did you find the wheel alignment? I notice you are running ally arms - and there was a thread not too long ago with a few people having excessive toe out (including me). My spring plates were filed out in the end.

Steve, the car and upgrades look great!

Something to consider with the Porsche transmissions is the switch from 6cyl to 4cyl motors. Here in Vancouver we have a Porsche 356 replica manufacturer Intermeccanica. Henry, who owns the business, is a friend and walked up to my car at the first event. "Porsche 5spd?", yep. "Noisy as all hell isn't it." They used to offer a Porsche 901 or G50 option with the VW motors, but now reserve them only for 6cylinder cars. Even with rebuilds and all new parts they were noisy, swap the exact same box into a 6cyl equipped car and they'd be silent. Gotta be something with the harmonics.

Hmmm, this makes me think I should update my thread!

-Dave

Hi

Interesting comment about the harmonics.

When I worked in a performance VW shop, when we fitted a higher comp, higher performance motor to a customers car its transmission would develop an overrun noise which wasn't there before.

We put this down more savage pulsing on overrun, fitting a sprung centre clutch plate helped.

A 6 cylinder motor would have more even pulsing than a 4 cylinder.

Anyway now I have the peace of mind knowing I'm not grinding my transmission pieces.

I only had my front end aligned, I still have a bit to do to correct the toe out on the rear.

I fitted some offset pivot bolts made by a local drag racer which helped a lot, just need a whisker more.

Steve

The pivot bolts

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Ah yes - i remember seeing that - sorry, i had bit of a blonde moment there!

Hi

Bit of an update, I replaced my cracked 930 CV boots with some eBay ones, great quality.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

Some time ago I read post on this forum by Ricola about clocking CVs. After a bit of search I found the information on doing this. You can read more about it here http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

I used a plastic windscreen washer bottle as my water to air intercooler reservoir.

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It always looked a bit cheap so I bought a aluminium one from eBay and had my friend Westi fit two 3/4 bungs and a two bosses so I could fit a level indicator.

Transmission still has noises but nowhere near as bad as before and it seems to be just one noise now, not a variety of noises. I've decided to keep the extra mountings that I've fitted even if they do transmit noise. At least I know that I’m not slowly grinding the transmission to pieces.

I fitted an extra brake light bulb in tail light housing, just in case and also I've made a move to a more permanent coolant overflow reservoir. I'm using US style tail light lenses.

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I was booked in for a dyno on the 18th and to also have a knock module fitted to the Autronic SM4 at the same time.

It was a pretty disappointing day at the dyno, with all the heat build up around radiator because of the lack of airflow, the fuel pump started to make funny noises and cavitate and was making the motor run hairy over 5,000.

So no power figures as such but I did see 169kw on the screen once, the dyno is a very old but a good one but is not hooked up to printers etc like later dynos. I also will need to rethink my fuel pump layout.

I thought that I would post some photos of my 044 pump and surge tank.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

Next week I'm going to move the 044 and surge tank to the rear of the car.
For the time being I've changed the surge tank layout a little, I originally had it setup so that fuel returning from the rail would go into the tank and cool a little, I think only relying on the lift pump to fill the surge tank would maybe make the surge tank run out of fuel during in high demand.

I also made some fill panels for my whale tail out of black Perspex and secured them with M5 nutserts and stainless M5 Allen screws.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

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I'm sorting out ride heights now and just having fun driving it. I'm also setting up the waste gate actuator.

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So after I get my fuel issues sorted I will go a for another dyno session.

Steve

Making a lot progress! Looks great! Hope you get the fuel issues sorted out soon!

Looking good.