Allrite, not sure if there are still people interested in this, but here's a quick update.

I started the wiring. :eek: Holy Hell what a mess.
I spent pretty much 3 days off-and-on trying to separate the engine harness from the main harness. I made pics, I'll post them on my website later.

Initially I was affraid to cut wires, but at a certain point the wires were so magled up that I had to cut. Hopefully I didn't cut too many :bawling:

Rob.

Are you kidding? Hell yeah I wanna hear about somebody being able to make forward progress!
It is possible I might get a box of parts next week...or the next...or maybe the next :rolleyes: .

Allrightie then, check http://www.vanbran.com/bug/conversion2.htm and
http://www.vanbran.com/bug/conversion3.htm for updates.

I finished phase 1 of the wiring (i.e. separating the ECU harness from the main harness), and ventured in the wonderful world of fibreglass :eek:

Panel, what parts are you waiting for ?

Rob.

ECU... He's having problems with burning out coilpacks, waiting for the programmer guy to make sure he didn't put the wrong value somewhere in the firing command before he ships mine.

Flywheel, clutch, pressplate ... found out the 228mm flywheels my buddy uses in all his sand stuff won't fit my T1 tranny. Had Kennedy custom cut me a 200mm and he just hasn't got up to L.A. to pick it up yet.

Fuel pump, Alternator & brackets, Northstar O2 sensor (matches harness config) in stock but waiting till he ships the other two items to save on shipping.


Ahhh, fiberglass. Nothing like the feeling of a thousand ants crawling on you... :D

Air Box / Rad Locations
 

Rob:

Seeing how you are stil in the template stage and "working"
things out I thought I might provide a comments, now that I
can see the set-up.

Why don't you mount the air box in another location and thus
free up some rad room. Is there any reason why you could not
relocate Air box under the deck lid above the engine and attached
a industrial class flex hose to the air inlet (ie. plastic moulded type
coupling, etc.) Or could you fab up your own smaller sized air box
like the 914 Porsche 2.0 litre type I have. It appear quite simple
and you could adapt a standard GM style flat air filter ! Just a
thought and that way you should have more room for better air
flow into and out of the rad enclosure, which should be a concern.
Looking forward to you comments.

Your friend the Insurance man

Allan

Hey Alan,

yeah, I'm not too happy with the current setup. That's why I started with the shroud and not the heatshield. I'll do some searching in the plumming departement to see if I can find a couple 90 degree bends that will fit the throttle body so I can move the box. Once the MAF sensor is in I can mock up the complete air intake system and do a better 'planning' ;)

Panel, so you are getting a custom programmed ECU ? Who is doing this for you ?

Rob.

Rob, It's not really all that "custom". It is a Delphi unit made for GM's marine division and they have basic maps depending on which engine (4cyl, 6cyl, 8cyl). It's something my buddy in Cali "farms out", not by choice though, Delphi is real picky about the base map software and the blank ECU's and there is a high intial buy-in. The ECU map is tweaked or optimized a little but is basically stock. An example... a stock Cavalier with the smog equipped Eco is about 140hp. The stripped down version I'm using makes 170hp.

If I get to build a turbo engine next year, I'll probably ditch the Delphi and go with the Accel DFI. Some serious coin $$, but I'll have to run a different ignition and injectors for the turbo so it's nessecary...

Made a little progress.... see:
http://www.vanbran.com/bug/conversion4.htm

Rob.

Wow that wiring looks scary... You are a braver man than I am. :laugh:


You might want try some tin foil over the styrofoam.??? It might work...

Nice! Progress is always good!

That wiring harness makes me shudder... :eek:

HELP is on the way !
 

Rob:

Just came across your "styrofoam" problem and there is a little trick
you must do in order to be able to fiberglass over the foam. The chemical
attacks the styrofoam as you have "nicely" displayed. I have been really
busy this part five days with organizing a major convention for our church
group at the Metro Trotonto Convention Centre so I need to locate the
"Trick" and then I will reply. BETTER yet please call me or e-mail me in 24
hours and I should be able to handle this for you. So don't panic and work
on something else.

Allan


PS> My Super should be on the road in a couple weeks !
Question: When is or was the May club meeting ?

Hey Allan,

The meet is tomorrow night.
Let me know if you can make it, maybe you can get me the info then.
Although I am now also considering using wood for the template.

Rob.

Rob,
Just a thought about your fiberglassing problems. There are two ways that I know of to stop the "melting" issue. (which is caused by the way by the Styrene in the resin. Styrene, I've been told, is also the main component of most foams (styrofoam?)
1: Cover the foam with regular white glue, you'll probably need to give it a couple of coats, and make sure all the pinholes in the glue are well filled. Then just fiberglass over the whole thing like you normally would. You may want to touch the hardened glue with a little sandpaper to roughen it up (may help the FG to "stick")
2: Use a Epoxy resin which will not contain Styrene. Many "Marine Grade" resins are Epoxies.

Just as a note of interest, you could use the styrofoam sheets that are used to insulate basements/houses. If you made a solid blank of the entire shape you where trying to build, you could then FG over it and "melt" the foam blank out of the middle with acetone (which will not harm cured fiberglass). I've seen it done when making prototype kayaks. Oh, and the "sludge" that the foam melts into should be sealed into a can (large paint can, etc.) and can be disposed of as hazardous household waste.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Dave

Rob, about the alternator question from the other night. I looked up a GM three wire alternator and it goes like:
A terminal: excitor wire from ignition switch. On two seperate wiring diagrams the wire is classified as 'resistor wire'. The only reference that I could find for it was a voltage less than 9V and greater than 2V. :confused:
B terminal: thin (red) wire feeds back to the starter and attaches to the same terminal as the large + wire (see below)
+ terminal:feeds back to the starter and attaches to the large power terminal.

Well hope that helps somewhat... Maybe Crappy Tire would have a single wire alternator? It would just be sooooo much easier :rolleyes:

Cheers,
Dave

ps: thanks again for the seat stops. One more thing off my list!! ;)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys !

I decided to put the FibreGlass project on hold for now and focus on other areas.
See the website for more details, but basically I finished the wiring harness (I hope), installed the exhaust manifold, and got her off the ramps to see what kind of clearance I have (not much)

http://www.vanbran.com/bug/images/co...earance2_l.jpg

Oh yeah, I also installed my high-tech, light weight race seat and had my driver check it out :laugh:
http://www.vanbran.com/bug/images/co...ce_seat1_l.jpg

Rob.

Hi Rob,

Nice and interesting project you're doing there!
About the styrofoam and fiberglass problems. One thing you can do is to cover the styrofoam with self adjesive aluminum tape. This tape is typically used on home and commercial ductwork, a little heaver than your typical aluminum "foil". Just cover the form you want to fiberglass with it, effectively sealing the foam. I believe you can also wax the tape, allowig the 'glass to be removed once cured.
Another option is to use polyurethane foam - pretty sure it's the stuff they make surfboards from and I don't belive it is attacked by typical resins used in fiberglass work (polyester, vinylester or epoxy). They've been fiberglassing over foams for decades, key is using the right kind of foam.

Jeff

Rob, things are looking good. I moved the firewall forward about 14" on mine. Right up to the back of the rear seat. Gave me lots of room. Mine is a 2.0 twin turbo in a 56 Oval.

Ernie

Ernie,

I'd be very interested in seeing pics. Do you have a website or pics you an email me ?

Also, what are you using for ECU, the stock one ? If so, what are you using for an OBDII reader ?

Thanks,

Rob.

Rob
Photos are at http://photo.starblvd.net/junkyardoval

If you can get it to work. The site has been very slow.

I am using the stock ecu and wires. I have a friend who has done the conversion on two VW Vanagons with the 2.2 Subaru engine. He is doing my wiring for me. He also made the adaptor plate and lots of other parts. Nice friend. I hope to have mine on the street this summer. I have used 944 Porsche disk brakes and 16" wheels. A 901 five speed trans and sway bars from a Mazada Miata.

Ernie

The more I read this thread, the more I want to do this conversion. The deciding factor...MONEY!!. How much are you into this (cost-wise) for the engine and conversion alone (parts essential for the conversion: motor, trans adapter, etc.)? The question is for anyone who has done the WRX swap. Thank guys. Oh yeah and the car looks great!!

Beesquad,

The engine I am using is not a WRX, but an RS (2.5L, NA).
I got the engine dirt cheap, because it had a blown headgasket and the owner needed to get rid of it.
When you get the engine, make sure you get the complete wiring harness, ECU, ignitor, main- and fuel relay.

I am guessing that right now I'm in it for around CAD 2.500.
To get it running I'll prolly have to fork out another 500 (at least).

WRX motors go from CAD 3,000-7,000 (app) though....

Rob.

Thank you very much. That helps to give me some kind of idea of what I might be getting in to. I priced the STi motor at $4500 US brand new. From what you said it looks like if would be about $7k just to get the engine in the car. That's a little steep but it would be a ton of fun :D We'll just have to wait and see what kind of magic I can work in the next few months and maybe get this project in the works.

RS engines sell for as little as $350 on ebay.

WRX engines sell for around $800 on ebay.

STI engines are worth between $3,000 to $6,000 from what I have seen.

Keep in mind that you do not just need the longblock. You need the complete engine, including all intake/exhaust components, all electrical components, sensors, ECU and wiring harness. If you are just getting an engine the cost of all these other components will kill you. For example, I did not get an ignitor with the engine, dealer cost : 370 !!!! Fortunately it looks like I now tracked a used one down. EJ25 engines are wanted because they blow headgaskets, so I'm betting that a 350 dollar EJ25 will need new gaskets etc...

Also 4500 for an STi motor ? Again make sure it is complete. It took me months to track down a complete wiring harness, and they don't go cheap.

Rob.

Maybe they have gone up in price since I looked. I have seen them that cheap for the JDM versions.