I did a little more searching (remember project will be a later side project, but like I said, dont hurt to prepare now than not know what I want later on)
well anyways I did a little more searching and found this stuff for a 1776cc or a 2007cc if you desire.Maybe this will help you also Evilangel.
instead of a Engle W110 use a 86A( aircooled.net calls it a Mild Ratio Grind cam) - 94.95
Aircooled.nets, L5 Road Warrior Heads- 750.00 plus a Venturi cut valve job- 50.00 plus Match port intakes (if you buy intakes from them) -50.00
Lowbuggets 1.4:1 forged rockers (need a 1.4 or 1.5:1 rocker with the cam posted above)- 129.99
Lowbugget has malhe forged 90.5 pistons and cylinders- 180.00
Bosch Rev limiting rotors 5800rpms- 24.99
Jbugs Dual 40IDF carb kit (maybe cheaper from somewhere else?)- 829.95

What you think this would do to the reliability issues, anything bad?

a total of 2628.08 of course thats not counting shipping, and hopefully you get more than 100hp :laugh:

IMO there is no need to get the c/w crank for a 1776 except if u plan on putting a turbo on it on a latter stage... Just balance the stock crank,rods and lightened flywheel and u will be fine (done this and came up to 6.5k rpm, with useful rpm up to 6k).

For carbs i use dual 40 webers, with velocity stalks and tall air filters. Carbs was a nightmare to jet after syncronizing them. Result is two jet settings. one foe winter one for summer...

For exhaust im using half of the collector from a Kadron system (like a single quiet pack/not so quiet:p ), custom made j tubes, as the rest of the collector and a 60mm group A style muffler.

Seriously, ditch the stock fuel pump, specially if u are on a hot area... it gets hot, wont suck enough fuel, lean mixture, preignition and bang there is a hole... I got a Weber carb pump fitted in the front compartment below the spare wheel (1303) so its a gravity fed one. U can run an extra oil breather line from a blocking plate on the stock fuel pump's hole...


Along with the petronix ignitor and wires get a 009 Bosch dizzy. IF u dont have a breathing system, there is a possibility, that oil will blow through the dizzy's o ring. it looks like the oil cooler has burst...(been there...)

Last but not least, get bolt on rocker shafts. I had a washer snaped and the noise is aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrghhghggh... i dont want to remember... Lucky though the was no damage, so i changed to bolt ons straight way


Chris

Thanks chris, yeah I agree bout there no need for a c/w crank but I was getting a forged one just in case.The stock fuel pump will be ditched, anyone in particular I should get?And about the dizzy Im going to get the Pertronics Ignitor II non vac, its a dizzy, and coil, and wires.And for carbs I was thinking 40IDF's but not with velocity stacks, I'd think it would be easy to suck in water that way.
Lightened Flywheel you would recomend, would I need a bigger fuel sump, maybe?

ok, i think reliability also could be improved by fine-selecting your cam, i read before that you must choose a high duration cam not a high lift one(relatively), because high lift cams put more stress into the valvetrain wich will decrease the overall life of the engine, for example scat c-35 has .410" Lift & 286 Degree Duration, Engle w-110 has .430"Lift & 284 Degrees Duration, they both have close duration, but engle has a higher lift, that means is make more strees on the valvtrain. also the lope shape decides that, sharp lopes is faster to push, so it is also not good for the engine...
i'm not sure about informations about valvetrain stress, as i only read it but not experienced it yet in the real world, so if any one knows better please correct me...

beetle1303,
do u know any site talking about balancing the crank? i only have sites contains articles about balancing the rods and the pistons, but don't have any talking about the crank, i want somthing good as i'm doing the job my own, thank's in advance...<<veedub, sorry for hijacking your post :o >>

Michael

Thanks for the info veedub. I think that cam will give a better reliability, for what i've read it lessens the stress on the valvetrain, exactly as Michael says. As a matter of fact i've read just yesterday htat it is indeed a very important factor of reliability on strokers. I agree with the lightened flywheel. I think that if you can afford the crank, go for it. It does no bad, and it certanily can stand more abuse than a stock c/w. As for the sump, there's been a lot of discussion on this topic, and it doesn't really keep the engine cooler, it just make it take longer to warm up. However, it can prevent oil starvation under some circumstances

Michael: I agree 100% with you, EFI is the way to go, but it's extremely expensive, specially since i've seen new webers 44 idf at about 700 on thesamba. As for cooling, i plan on 043's as cb's "regular" 044's don't seem ported, they just seem to have big valves, and their ported versions are a bit expensive for my budget. Also, i've read steve tims' heads are very well done, and they're affordable. And about cooling, i plan on keeping my stock shroud and thermostat, and install a temp sensor on cylinder #3 (this is the hottest) if i see temp's too high i will have to save for a DTM shroud. And my car came stock with electronic ignition :D

EvilAngel, I asked some people over in the CLF forumabout the combo of the 1776/2007 we are wanting, if I can say we:laugh:
And they said that the L5 heads would be overkill with a 1776cc but with a 2007 it would be fine.
Anyway I got a combo from them for a 1904cc which is 90.5x74
90.5 stroker pistons (not sure if there forged though, from thesamba is where they said to get them)- found some for 148.00
Ceramic coated 1 5/8 header exhaust (from thesamba)- 155.00
74mm DPR crankshaft (from thesamba)- 250.00
VW Journal I-Beam forged con-rods (from thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 75.00
VW journal bearings (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 8.00
Chromoly Gland nut 36mm, 42mm, 44mm (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 12.00
044 Super Mag CNC Round Port Heads w/ 40x35.5 S/S valves (42x37 is optional) CNC porting, Dual Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers, Hardened Valve locks- 605.95 for pair
Stock flywheel (if you want a new one) - 63.95
Eagle Racing cam- Adv Duration .286"/ Dur. @ .050" .240"/ Lift @ Cam .430"/ Lift w/ 1.1:1 rocker arms .473 (equal to and Engle W110) - 74.95
High Compacity 1.5qt Oil Sump- 69.99

There was a few guys there that say CB Performances heads were the best, and also told me not to cheap out on stuff:eek: i cant spend 800 bucks for a crank, sorry my budget wont allow me to, even though i am single.:laugh: thats just to much to me.

PS. I still think the sec. combo i made seems better, i donno, theres could be better though. :confused:

Well i think that's a nice combo. However, i'd add a chromoly lightened flywheel to your selection. I agree that spending 800 bucks for a crank is just silly, only makes sense if you have extremely deep pockets, which we don't. CB is known for having excellent heads, really among the very best, and i believe thos 044s will be as good as it gets for what we want. For a 1904 i would have a engle 120 or equivalent with 1.1:1 rockers, and dont forget the rocker arm thingies (cant remember the name right now) they look like screws, and you'll have to upgrade them as well. The main advantage of the 1904 is that it will run cooler than a 2007 and yet it'll be much torquier than a 1776. You may run a higher CR on a 1904, sacrificing some heat to get a little more power. I have a friend with a 1904, and he says it's a very nice combo. He beats mustang gt's at the dragstrip with that. And it's his daily driver

beating mustangs? wow :eek: that would be nice. Using a 74mm crank would you by chance know what all he needed to do to the motor to get that crank in? The 90.5mm pistons I know would take machine work but the 74 crank i was told is just a slip in, but how true that is, is a question I'm wondering.

Well he said he had to do just a little bit of clerancing, but for what i've read it depends on the crank. Some will slip in, some will need clearance. It depends on the size of the couterweights

What you mean by the counterweights? Im still learning :D

The parts of metal just opposite to the journals, across the "center" of the crank. Just don't know i i made myself clear :(

ok i think..:laugh: lol Im not sure either.

On the atachment, two are pointed with arrows and one is circled

ahh ok i got you now, i was thinking you were talking about those but wasnt sure.

Anyone know if dual 44mm kadrons would be about the same, performance wise as dual 40IDF's? I know one is a single barrel and the others a 2 barrel, just I was wondering since the 44mm kadrons are modified and beefed up 40mm Kadrons.

I think they're equivalent, but being 2BB, the webers will offer higher performance... at a price. BTW, my mustang-beating friend has Kads.

Yeah Im thinking of getting a set of Kads, there ALOT cheaper than Webers.
Oh, also on that note...umm new pics of my bug will be coming soon, I get my tax returns in couple weeks and when that comes, im going to go buy the stuff I need to make my bug driveable at least, then as time goes i'll start addding stuff to improve handling, a bit off topics but what would you recomend to improve handling, along with using 15x4.5's with 195/60's(im going to stay with them for a while)?
Also if you know, what combo does your friend have done to his motor, id like to have mustang catching power :laugh: just to say hey i can keep up with your stang? :p

Is your car swingaxle or IRS? Im assuming it's a std, not a super
For handlig in my 90 std, swingaxle rear, ball joint front, i am going to add a camber compensator in the rear and a beefy swaybar in the front. Also im gonna use gas shocks in the rear, and hydraulic shocks in the front. Im also using dropped spindles (just arrived today :D ) and discs all around. Then i'm gonna go for fat tires.

My friend has a 74mm forged chromoly crank, 90.5 cimas, P&P stock heads with 43 x 37.5 valves, engle 120 cam, bosch 009 dist, 2 kadrons (dont know which # though) external oil cooler, high flow fuel pump, that rocker thing which name i still can't remember, and teflon piston locks. Stock doghouse, and lightened flywheel. Oh and he has a vw 1500 tranny

Yes my bug has IRS and also its a standard.
I was looking at the possibilities of a turbocharged motor, like a 1600cc,1776cc or and 1835cc.I read that there really reliable with a turbo, and good on gas if its a daily driver.Lowbugget has a under the decklid turbokit for the bug that looks pretty nice.Does anyone know of any other site that sells a turbo kit for the bug?

just curious so I'll ask about this setup...
Hopefully someone on here can answer it:confused:
Machine in 88mm pistons and cylinders (forged if they exist as and option)
DPR 74mm Chromoly forged c/w crank
Lowbuggets 1.4:1 forfed rockers
Lowbuggets LBC Cam and billet lifters
Lowbuggets 1600T kit
Heads..........I cant find any

Do 88mm bore hi po heads exist in the aftermarket or would I have to special order them?
By the way it would be and 1800cc motor....I can go rip a 1.8T badge off some guys Jetta:laugh:

Yes, turbo is nice and reliable if using little boost. But it is expensive. You can check out cbperformance hideaway turbo. I really see no point in getting 88mm pistons if you cant get 90.5 for the exact same price of both pistons and case machining, and probably save on the heads since you can get an "off the shelf" hi-po head. Another thing, is that i don't like a turbo kit with carbs, since you'll never get the optimum performance unless you heavily mod them, and still they can't compare with a nice EFI. But that's just me bitching, carbs and turbo do work, just not as good as EFI and turbo

Oh and if you got irs, dont get a camber compensator, get a rear swaybar

Yeah I was planning on getting front and rear swaybars to improve handling to help my 15x4.5's with 195/60's:laugh:
Im liking the idea of a 1.8T for my bug, 88mmx74mm, I was told it would be and awesome combo along with a set of 90.5mm bore CB 044 round port heads,a cam, 1.25:1 rockers and a optional cam gear.Id want to use a stock flywheel and need a stage 1 clutch I assume.With a stock tranny I wonder how it would be, I just want it quick off the line and be reliable for 100k, i dont care bout the top end though.:D

Evilangel since your doing your motor sooner than i am, i was talking to a guy that builds vw motor.
just bore your case out to whatever size your wanting, an buy the pistons forged, then buy the turbokit from aj at lowbugget and get your stock heads opened up or buy heads from cb performance.you'll have a motor that makes power w/o going over 6000rpms and still be reliable then as time goes on, change out the rockers to increase the stock cams lift or other cam.Stock cranks are forged by the way, unless you want to get one counterweighted.
I might do my motor this way when the time comes.

Seem interesting. I like the idea of a turbo, however it might take a lot of space in the engine bay, and this might be a problen since i want to add A/C.
Heat here is very extreme

i think his kit, theres and option that he can make it where you can have a/c.

In that case I will consider it... having a 1.8T like you say sounds cool
Edit: Ive checked prices, and I think that the 2007 seup s cheaper. At least I think I'll begin with it, and i will consider turbo in the future.... 2.0T :D

Veedub, about water, if u don't run airfilters u will ^%**££ ur engine soon cos of dust particles being sucked in and making indentations to the valve seats and piston rings, as well as scorching? the cylinder walls.

Rain in particular will not get in that easily if ur on the road.
I did this for a while, and I used to cover the carbs every time i parked, and washed the car...

Chris

My motor has and airfilter..what are you talking about, you kind of lost me..:confused:

anyway i was browsing the thread, and thought u meant that with the stalks water can find an easier route into the carbs and eventually the engine... ( assummed no air filters are used) then i said that i have run my beetle without air filters for a while (few days until i recieved my airfilters) and ive been extra super careful about water and driving conditions (dust, moist etc) cas particles small enough can find their way into the engine and be the cause of unneccessay faults and overhauls....

it could just be silly me, tired, with a bit more alcohol in my system etc....:p :p

Chris

Or you can order a turbokit from Mat Davis http://www.mattdavisracing.com/store.htm
He told me if you run 94x69 (1915cc) then do a little headwork, mild cam, you can have about 300hp..Im guessing you could use CB Performances heads..but I donno if his kits can be run with and a/c, you can ask him.

Thanks for the tip. I will consider that :D

But I dont know if a 300hp 1915Turbo would be reliable for a daily driver, but I can imagin thats not at low boost.
But it would be cool to raise the wheels up off the ground in front of some guy in a civic :laugh:

even with half of that you can say the civics goodbye. I too have my doubts about reliability, but hey, im happy with 180 hp

id be happy with 180hp too. Aircooled.net says a bug with 180hp is as fast as a Vette..if thats really true thatys pretty cool. Just the Vettes top end would be really REALLY scary in a bug :laugh:

Yeah, I agree. Anyway, truth is my budget is not for reliable 180hp, at least not at this point. Guess i'll have to stay on the 130 - 140, which is as fast as a 'stang according to AC.net, and that's an improvement from stock!!

Yeah truthfuly my budget for now wont let me build my motor up yet, when my bugs done in a couple months and its on the road I'll start buying 1 part at a time, or 2 depending on the price. But it dont hurt to decide what you want to do to your motor in advance right?:laugh:

Yes, that's exactly the way i'm doing it....

just throw up your ideas, what are you wanting, anyway, just curious.

Well, i'm planning the 2007cc setup mentioned above, with minor changes for durabilty. However since i have to pay A LOT for shipping i have to do it gradually. Plus i'm still waiting for my rear discs, camber comp and front swaybar to arrive. when i have all of that installed i will start to buy the engine stuff. I know that after a while, my 2007 won't be enough, and then i'll go for the turbo, and/or EFI. that's why i chose some things to have the turbo later, like I-beams instead of h-beams, etc. Right now im trying to find out what kind of heads i have. If they're 043's i will just P&P them. If they are 040 or 041's, i'd rather get a brand new set ---> $$$
I really like the EFI idea, since i got a carputer, and it would be cool to tune it from the dashboard touschscreen :D

EvilAngel, we could go the "simple" route.Small displacement but big power.
forged 85.5 pistons cylenders
C/w forged 69mm crank (74mm possibly?)
stock pushrods
stock cam or cheater cam
1.4:1 forged rockers
forged I-beam rods
044 MAGNUM with 40 x 35.5mm S/S valves, Dual Super Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers, & Sure-Grip Locks (STD. Bore)
then mat davis or lowbuggets turbokit

I seen somewhere, where there was a 1600T that made 126hp with 10psi, but dont remember where though.According to the guys from the STF forums, the 1600T is very reliable if you dont go out and race it and rev it all to hell and back(but i think thats any motor)