Was yours a stage 1 or 2 Steve?

We get screwed in the UK, anything over about $25. Import duty and local taxes, they are compounded and it also applies to the shipping charges..

Hi Rich

I'm using a stage 1.

What happens if you bring stuff in as baggage? I'm thinking you could buy the parts yourself in California and bring them back.

Steve

You still technically have to pay, but I doubt the tax savings would pay for a flight!

I ordered my adaptor plate and clutch from KEP, without even asking they valued the package at $100 so the duty was nothing compared to what it could have been.

However as mentioned the previously, my clutch is on or off and heavy inbetween. Fortunatly for me ive got legs like Chris Hoy so I can manage it most of my mates alwasy mention it when test the clutch.

Bit of an update:
I made up a new bulkhead panel to properly clear the new chargecooler
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/cc_bulk_2.jpg

New stage 1 KEP clutch, this is rated to 550ft lbs torque so fine for my target level of about 450..
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/kep_g50.jpg

http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/kep_fitted.jpg

The release bearings changed to include a plastic liner, this meant that I needed to buy a new bearing guide tube from Porsche..
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabri...e_rel_tube.jpg

While the chargecooler was off again I thought I would take the opportunity to improve the mounting and filling system. Here is a new support bracket using a locost type suspension rubber bushing I had lying around
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/cc_bracket.jpg

New filler neck welded to the chargecooler makes the pipework much neater and is obviously much easier to bleed and keep full. The filler neck was decent and came from Mishimoto, most others were pretty flimsy pressed items.
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/cc_filler.jpg

All fitted again, the chargecooler is much better mounted and easier to fill now.
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabrio/cc_fitted_2.jpg

We need a road test report and video to boot!

Jason

^^^ x2

Well, I've just been out for a drive, not long as it's pretty wet out. First thing is this clutch is a LOT heavier and shorter, maybe my old one had got weak with age? I can pretty much spin the wheels at most speeds now and it will go to wategate pressure (about 1 bar) no problem so I think I can safely say the clutch is sorted. I stalled it quite a few times to begin with but have got the hang of it now, I may look in to using a smaller bore master cylinder to lighten & lengthen the travels. I've done about 500 miles of running in now so I'll arrange the remap to full boost shortly.. This is going to be an animal when it is fully mapped!!!

WRX/Porsche Karmann cabrio 1303
 

Good on ya Rich,as allway's some great mods and keeping us all informed and inspired. I cant wait to see some vids of this car.:cool::cool::cool:

Graham

Every time I come back and look at your project I am amazed. So very nice! You have inspired me for years. Now if I could only get one of my projects back on the road. Thanks again.

The mapper was booked up solid for a while but I'm booked in for May 14th, I've done about 1200 miles now and given it an oil change and it's all going very well. As I do I got bored with nothing to do so thought I'd work on the heating system.

A problem I had on a previous kit car was that the heating system was ducted so efficiently with the intake in a high pressure zone that I would always get warm air coming through the system into the car. I couldn't have the fans on with ambiant temperature air as the heater matrix was part of the thermostat bypass flow. This was a particular problem during some heavy summer rain where I needed a good amount of air flow to keep the screens de-misted and my only option was hot heated air which turned the interior into a steam room! The solution is to fit a valve which can bypass the matrix but still enable constant flow, handily Ford fit one to many of their small cars so I bought one.
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabri...ller_valve.jpg

The valve could be connected up to an on/off switch but a better solution (as well as how it is used in Fords) is to use a low frequency PWM controller, this gives proper temperature control by cycling the valve on and off depending on demand of a rotary switch which I have fitted in the glovebox. Mine came from ebay as a generic part but was modified by the seller to reduce the frequency to something more suitable. The valve connector was a generic mini timer type that was also from ebay.
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabri...controller.jpg

Finally getting around to fitting the valve in the car after cutting off superfluous brackets, a quick test of the electrics to make sure it was fitted the correct way around and it's in!
http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabri...lve_fitted.jpg
A test in the car and I'm extremely happy with how it works, the temperature is easily adjusted and changes surprisingly quickly.

Very nice mod!!

Ohhhhh, I like this. Care to share the details of the items used?

I've made a heater bypass and valve using plumbing stuff and a mk1 golf coolant valve. I also used one of my dashboard vent knobs to adjust the coolant valve position but I'm not really happy with things as I don't get full movement out of the valve. This is a much better solution.

Nothing special Kai, just a Ka/fiesta valve, search for PWM controller on ebay, there are plenty of them (looks similar to this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-...item3f2468ccf8). Ideally I would have fitted the knob on the dash but it would have looked out of place..

So funny, I bought the same valve a couple of years ago, havn't installed it yet, but I'm glad, as usual, that you did it first because I wouldn't have known about the PWM controller! I was just going to do an on/off thing! Glad to see so much more progress and smooth miles getting on her.

Jason