cool. thanks.

i got all of my clearancing done today and one trailing arm going on. looks like i took off just enough from the shock tower. tolerances must be different across the cars. i will post pics tomorrow, but i took the webbing off in the same place as yours genious and it is just barely enough to clear.

the trailing arm is not bolted to the spring plate yet and that may pull the spring plate out some by the looks of it, but there is no way that 1mm off the plate and the bolts would have made it on mine. i hate having to cut that much nonetheless.

What do you think of cutting the bump stop off the old trailing arms and welding it to the shock tower upside down to hit on the trailing arm. I figured that would be a little more secure than bolting them to the aluminum trailing arms. Whats your opinion. :)

funny, i was looking at the same thing today. i am no engineer (well not mechanical...i am a computer sustems engineer/architect) so i am the wrong one to ask. i don't see why that wouldn't be as strong or stronger. i would think a bolt in one is ok too. all of the stress would be dead onto the rubber. no shearing stress. i have yet to find a bolt in one though. let me know if you have seen one.

I'm not sure if the bolt for the bump stop would be on a flat surface of the arm to line up with the shock tower. Are you using the late or early aluminum arms. Don't the early arms have a place for a bump stop?

Zen, got one of the braces cut out today. I had to use an angle grinder since my shop wouldn't buy a new torch right now. I'll run out to home depot tomorrow to get some more cut off discs. The way I have mine sofar is that it mounts flush with the top rib following the contour of the shock tower and contacts the lower rib at a 90 degree angle. I wish I had a digital camera. :(

Also thinking of going with some 2" tall bump stops from the Summit catalog. I think I can mount them to the inside of the shock towers and have them hit the trailing arms.