It doesn't get any easier, that's for sure!!!

On the paint, apparently the catalyst in the bondo can bleed through in certain conditions. The stains look to be in the bondo areas, so that makes sense, but what doesn't make sense is the different colors of white that were sprayed from the same mix of paint. I have a hunch they were sprayed on different days, and just sitting mixed in the paint pot had some sort of effect, that and maybe a weather change is all I can come up with.

Jason

Small update:

Before I get the roll cage built, I needed to get some specialized parts. These are some parts I had turned then lightened up myself. There are 2 cups that bolt onto the back of the front suspension subframe allowing the front subframe to be bolted to the roll cage.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/742664.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/742663.jpg

Then 2 sets of male/female attachments that will allow the rear subframe to be bolted to the roll cage. They will be welded to the top ends of the front vertical tubes.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/742665.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/742666.jpg

Jason

Hey Volkswagen can u send me some info on your radiator. I just committed a sin this weekend I'd the sohc 2.5 lt flat 4 type.
This looks small and compact

This is the guy that made them, he built another for me too that I severely damaged. I think his name is Bryan. Don't mention my name as he didn't built the last one he made me to spec and I didn't like it so he didn't like me. He did do a great job on both though, very talented and can cut cores, something not everyone will do, thus the compact size. Expect $450-600 as I recall.

Jason

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/238897.jpg

Finally getting a roll cage, just a few shots of it in progress:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/747211.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/747212.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/747213.jpg

Jason

jason who is doing the work ?

NorCal Sand and Off Road, he did a nice job, but I have an issue with the design so unfortunately about half of it has to be redone:(

Jason

Hopefully he can redo the front down bars and get them closer to the a-pillars. One of the biggest problems I have with my cage is the a-pillar gap. Good to see it's it's getting a cage, it means you can go faster.

Yeah, it's way to big a gap, it fouls the window crank, and its in my forward view AND it's about 2.5 inches from my left knuckles. If I were to lose it around a corner and start correcting, your hands just go for the wheel, they don't remember a bar in the way, so I'd be worried about spraining a finger in that scenario, the other is an impact in which a hand could be caught between the wheel and the bar, I don't suspect major damage as the wheels are usually pretty soft, but it could pin you. These are all worst case scenarios, but that is exactly when you wish you would have thought about it more.

Unfortunatlely it looks like in order to get the clearance I want we'll have to cut a couple of holes in the roof to finish the tops of the welds. The car is getting repainted anyway, but it's just more work. I don't like to have situations I'm not happy with stare at me everytime I get in the car, so I think I'll be happy with all the hassle in the end.

Your worries are well founded so don't think that you're being too picky. You definitely want the bars as close to the A and B pillars as possible. Normally to do the welds on top the cage is dropped through holes cut in the floor which are later repaired or covered by the feet plates, anything preventing you from taking a hole saw to the floor?

He built some very nice body-mounted bases for the cage, there's no going through those. As the body has to be repainted anyway, might as well just cut small holes through the roof, it's easy to get to to weld and bodywork.

Jason

No pics, sorry, but the A-pillar tubing has been replaced as per my request. Sooooo much better! They havn't been tied into the front suspension yet, but I just needed that done before the paint was redone, the other points are in non-paint sensitive areas. Now the window cranks have room, the visor can clear enough, visibility is not limited at all, and there is the max amount of room between the steering wheel and the tubing. Paint next, maybe off to the paint shop this weekend.

Ooops, I forgot to mention, NO HOLES CUT IN THE ROOF!!! whooo hoooo

Jason

Pics as promised! Nice big bases

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769413.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769412.jpg

.095 CroMo, I think I'll be adding another bar here to triangulate.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769411.jpg

Lots 'O room now between my knuckles and the bar, much more comfortable!

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769410.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769409.jpg

I told him to make it as tight to the door and dash as possible, and he did! It feels much more spacious in there now, was very claustrophobic before.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769406.jpg

Main hoop is purposely rear of the B-pillar, Will(Humble) will understand you don't want that nice big bar right next to your noggin in an accident. As it is all the bars around my head will be covered by impact foam.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769405.jpg

Tight! (Said with a Scottish accent)

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769403.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769402.jpg

The main hoop will triangulate to the rear at the top of the struts. Still kicking around the Boxster idea, so I didn't want to do this just yet. Like Humble mentioned on another post, this leg needs to be straight to fall within SCCA-NASA-FIA rules.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769400.jpg

You are only allowed 2 bends in the A post tube, so this worked out the best. I'll be adding another short piece at the top to triangulate that corner. It falls out of line of sight from the drivers seat and parallels the A pillar so it looks pretty nice too. Clears the window crank easily now and no where near the glove box.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769399.jpg

This used to be tied together with the old A post, but I told him just to get the new A post in so I could get the paint done then we will come back to it.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769415.jpg

I completed the lean-to part of the garage before the winter, but just finished pouring a section between the main pad and the fence last weekend. It's a big wide area to work on stuff and get dusty and dirty, then I can heat up the insulated area (M3 parked) when its cold or I'm working on something I'm doing cleanly.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769408.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/769397.jpg

I need to pull everything apart again now, get some of the finishing touches built before the paint is redone (LED housings, front splitter mounting points, 3rd exhaust hanger). I may even start playing with the rear end suspension to figure out if I can get some better geometry than I have.

Jason

Nice work! Love the detailed pics and also the "Über schnell" license plate haha!

Nice work! Fantastic welding! I wish I could do that..

Finally go the LEDs installed, what a PITA for such a small detail! I've been planning this effect for years now though, so it's awefully nice to see it actually working!

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/775116.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/775117.jpg

Hopefully some more work on the rollcage this week and off to re-paint.

Jason

Pretty cool Jason. :)

Thx Pete, I hope the final effect is cool and not tacky!

She's back to paint as of tonight, so next week sometime I'll hopefully be looking at a car that's all one color!

Jason

Where do I get this? that page? beautiful Käfer

PM sent to u.

Jason

muchas gracias Jason


thank you very much, and answer your MP

Today I played with vinyl. Wrapping, who woulda thunk?

Looks really good, you can see it's wrapped in places, but you've got to look at the right spots to find it. The cage still needs a diagonal main hoop bar and then the rearward arms, so I'll peel off the areas to be welded then just patch them up with more vinyl!

Jason

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/784996.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/784997.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/784998.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785000.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785002.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785003.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785004.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785001.jpg

This is hopefully one of the next steps, should net about 350hp and be quite reliable.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/785504.jpg

Jason

That IS quite the set-up!
Some of those parts look familiar as my daily is a 1.8 5V (not turbo) and I run the VDCS diagnostic for it. The logging is very cool to live happening actually. Maestro7 I recently read about, funny enough I now see you getting it to tune the stock ecu. Very cool! Let me know how that works out for you!

Thanks for the update!

The sad story is that I've already spent almost $3k on a standalone fully adjustable system that I'm sure you would just love. Trouble is that I can't spend enough brain cells to full understand the system so every time I do any change it has to go back to the dyno. It's NEVER run well, especially cold, and I'm just tired of dealing with it. A modded stock ECU will be able to keep up with a lot of changes and also use the knock sensors to keep it safe. Anyone want a 034 Motorsport IIc standalone ECU?

Jason

NACA Time
 

I finally started working on the duct system for the intercooler. I have built bucks to do a vacuum formed scoop, but I can't seem to find a vacuum forming machine to do it, plus I'd still have to work out how to get the air to the IC. This way I just need to hook up flexible hoses to a plenum around the IC. It's easier, will look ok, and mostly it just makes having the quarter windows pop out much easier. It was a PITA, but seems like it will work. Next some testing to confirm I'm actually getting the flow I need.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789479.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789478.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789480.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789481.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789482.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/789483.jpg

Jason

Like it!

Will you always drive with the pop-outs open then? or will you only open them when there is extra air intake need?

Hi

You've been doing great work on this car. Did you ever consider going air to water inter cooling?

Steve

Nice NACA inlets. We have done a couple similar setups (dual inlet only), but not kept the pop-outs. I like the 3 singles with the pop-outs.

Ducts
 

Hi I love the ideal also, I have two (2)inch inlet one one each side. Having that galss cut and tempered was costly.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...3.jpg~original
I used some 2000 grid sandpaper for better adhesion, I can't wait to see how some of these part work/hold-up

Wally, I may have to have the pop-outs open for optimal cooling. I just put it together and with the pop-outs in they airflow I felt with my hand wasn't that great, I forgot to check with them open, but it makes sense to me that more air would be forced in with them open. The window itself will just aid in interior cooling, it doesn't add any air to the plenum.

Steve, I actually prefer the idea of A/W intercooling, the trouble is that it weighs A LOT more, is way more complicated and thus much higher chance of something failing. Weight is the main thing, all the cooling, hoses, and I'd have to have the radiator up front so long fluid filled hoses. If I do anything to augment the A/A, it will be methanol injection both through the engine and on the front of the IC. I'm only looking to have about 300whp, so hopefully that won't be to difficult to safely achieve with this setup.

Jason

Hi Jason!

I remembered your problem with the mirrors and would like to show you a solution to keep them still.

Standard...
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...5.jpg~original

Modified...
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...1.jpg~original

This is the way to keep tight without dismantling the door to maintenance... :rolleyes:
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...9.jpg~original

Wally,
I remember the white Golf W12 quarter window. Its working to intake air... ;)

Thanks for the suggestion Luis, so far so good, but it may loosen with time.

Just a little "update"....

So I tell my wife, "sweetie, I'm heading out to the garage to install the boost guage, I'll be done in probably 30 mins."

FAMOUS LAST WORDS

As I'm placing the guage in the dash, unbeknownst to me, one of the + wires that lights the speedo guage breaks off and falls to lay against the speedo housing.

After installing the new guage which is VDO India :angry::angry: I turn on the ingnition to see how it lights, as it is a different design than my German VDOs, especially on the light. I notice for whatever reason the high beam blue light is lit up, but I'm pretty sure I didn't have them on. I try the switch, and sure enough, when the high beams are on, the light is out, when they are off, it is on. Curious.

Just about this time my spider senses start tingling, and I feel like something is just not right. Just about then I see smoke billowing out of the front left fender...:eek::eek:

WELL, turns out the + wire reversed the polarity on the speedo, thus the odd light action, and decided to use the speedo cable as ground. This induced a resistance load on the speedo cable, which baked the plastic coating off. This in turn sagged and touched then melted the left brake hose, which, once melted through the rubber sheath, turned the stainless steel braid into more of the circuit, which then caught the brake fluid on fire as it dripped from the line:shocked:

SO, boys and girls, NEVER trust what you do when you are 17, I hadn't fused the + lead from the ignition to the guages all those many years ago, and fortunately, with only a new speedo cable, brake line, and terrribly bruised ego to point at, I got away rather unscathed.

I've taken the opportunity to redu the ingnition switch, light switch, and change out to a smaller set of MCs, so there is a silver lining, as well I've added PLENTY of new fuses to keep things from getting krispy in the future.

Jason

Damn. That sucked. Glad it wasn't any worse.

:(
That's terrible..

Luckily it didn't get any worse.

Damn, you got off easy since that could have gone a lot worse. Electric work is the worst and I hate doing it, but it pays to be methodical and thorough. Re-wiring my car is on my to-do list and it's not something I'm looking forward too.

I can't believe someone besides me is telling a story like that.

Ha ha, well it's gunna happen if you do it long enough I guess! I've been working on wiring, got one of these:

Innovative Motorsports A/F gauge

But I need a place to put everything, so I'm fabbing up the center console. It's going to be different... So far is involves a road bike handlebar... So I have to get the console finished before I can start the wiring.

The latest "pair" of MCs is in now, but the exhaust is out so I havn't been able to but it on the road to see if I've discovered the right combo of MC sizes to run in balance.

Having another bung welded onto my exhaust for the wideband O2 sensor, so it may see the dyno in the next couple of weeks for more tuning. I want it to run well stock then finish up the interior, then go back for the big turbo.

Pics to come.

Jason

Here's a couple of vids from tuning:

Flame thrower?

Dyno Run

I like this pic shot next to blue neon:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/856346.jpg

The new shop space:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/856347.jpg

On the dyno, he's one building over from where the new shop is, how convenient!

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/856348.jpg

Jason