I have a couple of sets of those as well. No problem if you use axial to radial adapters and radial mounted calipers. The '86 turbo calipers have a axial 94mm. bolt spacing. The NA spindels have a 76mm bolt spacing.

I've tried making steel adapters 10 years ago but it was to heavy.

https://i.imgur.com/41edr9k.jpg?2

The '86 turbo front disks are the lightest 28mm. disks.

And with the original '86 turbo spindle and caliper there is no need for an adapter and 2 more bolts.

I want to weigh the difference between the front beake setup on the red 1303 and this combo. Both use the same disk and brake pad size so there is theoretical no difference in performance. The weight difference is why I wanted to finaly complete this setup.

Let me throw this out there...if Lanner(flat) sees it, he'll roll his eyes so severely, he may, in fact, hurt his eyeballs. 924 spindles have 94mm caliper bolt spacing, use typical Beetle bearings and bearing spacing, and use 15mm ball joints, which is very handle if you have a 1303.

There's an issue with using them, but I will only detail if you're interested....otherwise I'll just be prattling.

Ah, come on, make my eyeballs hurt to:D. Don't be selfish :)

I know there are other / lighter / cheaper / easier options, I am just showing how to make the parts work that I already have.

I am curious about the pre '78 924 spindles. What 5 lug hub or disk is used for the axial mounted Brembo calipers that require 299 x 28 mm. disks? And are the 94mm. caliper holes the same radial distance from the axle as on the '86 turbo spindle?

Look at you, going right to the problem!

Those of us in the States with Supers got screwed out of factory disc brakes, for some unknown reason, so when I saw how similar the 924(early) spindle was to 1303 spindle, I had such great hope. The biggest drawback to the 924 spindle is the mounting ears.

The 924 uses a 257mm(10.1 inch) rotor, thus the ears place the caliper too close, radially, to the axle line for most of the rotors we might use, so some kind of adapter would be required. This would probably be good for radially mounted calipers, but if using axially mounted calipers, you might as well just use 1303 spindles with the typical disc brake conversion adapters and have no steering geometry issues.

The other, relatively minor, issue with 924 spindles is the steering arm. It is identical to the arm on 944 spindles. So, if you've already made accommodations for 944 arms, as far as the tie rod length goes, you're set. You also need to flip the tie rod end to the top, like you would for 944 spindle.

That's it. Just another option

wrong thread

Made some progress with the 2056cc Type 4

Ahnendorp 71mm couterweight crank

Ahnendorp heads with 41/34mm valves

44mm Weber IDF's

GPP exhaust

https://i.imgur.com/Y8HYupT.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/y1tWBvz.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/xM8tUC3.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/F7E1ajb.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/k8om8ZK.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/M1mvrXP.jpg?1

Still alot to do. My goal is to have this motor in the car this summer

Nice parts! I especially like the (looks of it) biral cylinders.

Thats correct. 96mm. Biral cylinders, JE pistons with 22mm. piston pins.

Ignition setup

123 ignition tune+ distributor, see link for more info.
https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-4-r-v-v/

silicone spark plug wires made to length

MSD Blaster-2 coil (mounted on firewall next to CSP crankcase vent box)

https://i.imgur.com/5gou1gY.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/hKG1RH3.jpg?1

Some photos of the 1971cc Type-4 build.

I started with removing the old oil galley plugs and tapping them for NPT plugs.

https://i.imgur.com/2FB0yrx.jpg?2

A NOS cranckshaft that I had ballanced with a 200mm. flywheel

https://i.imgur.com/egIef0S.jpg?1

cc'ed the CU-heads

https://i.imgur.com/Kn0L9yV.jpg?1

Set deck height on new Mahle flat top piston and cylinder set

https://i.imgur.com/tHmbMzj.jpg?1

Because I used 1700cc rockers in combination with 8mm. swivel ball valve adjustment screws (I will come back to this later),
I had to make new longer pushrods for the correct rocker geometry.
To make it easier to turn the camshaft/crank I used lighter pressure springs.

https://i.imgur.com/R43PrIA.jpg?1

And made my own adjustable pushrod

https://i.imgur.com/bqxIc7g.jpg?1

After testing and installing the correct jets in the DRLA carburators

https://i.imgur.com/TRzqQ2D.jpg?2

I was the proud owner/builder of a smooth running type-4

https://i.imgur.com/eAs18TT.mp4

The reason that I replaced the 1971cc type-4 with the 1904cc type-1 is it

left a smoke screen worthy of a bond car after only running for 100 kilometers.

The cause of the failure was a locknut that came loose of one of the swivel ball valve adjustment screws,

I am afraid to use these again. I am 100% sure I tightend all the locknuts.

With the locknuts loose the adjustment screws are very loose inside the rockers and can move side to side.

Is there enybody else who had this happen??

The nut became stuck between a rocker and the cylinderhead, breaking a piece out of the bottom of the head.

Resulting in a massive oil leak on to the exhaust

https://i.imgur.com/8pP6Ol9.jpg?2

I rebuild it with new CJ heads before I started with the 2056cc. in januari.

It is now ready to test start and install and hopefully this time run longer than 100 kilometers.

https://i.imgur.com/UW7zJqC.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/cRhQggf.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/20JVi7i.jpg?1

Used my CAD skills to make a Rear Engine Tin to fit the Porsche-Style Cooling.

Cardbord And Duct tape.

https://i.imgur.com/SNFs93P.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/027jdxJ.jpg?1

The bolts will replaced and I will make a better looking one out of thicker aluminium.

I made this very quick so I could drive the car.

Sweet CAD!

Looks like an awesome engine, hope it all goes well!

Thanks!!

Sneak peek,

Front mounted RS style oilcooler in Remmele Motorsport front bumper.

https://i.imgur.com/1HpMl1F.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/0vI2fuC.jpg?1

This BAS Porsche 911 style cooling shroud is modeled after an original 911 fan shroud. Knowing this I wanted to try and install the alternator air deflector.

https://i.imgur.com/qjR1keN.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/pJgz6Vs.jpg?1

The aftermarked alternator in the 240mm. fanhousing sticks out 1 cm. more out of the back compared to an original 911 alternator. I had to cut some material from the fiberglass cone around the mouting points and trim the vanes a few mm. but now it fits perfectly

https://i.imgur.com/wBobzQa.jpg?1

I used two M6 10mm. nuts the first to hold the cone in place and the second to lock the first one in its place. I've done this not to overtighten and crack the cone. Ebay is full of those.

I also made a modification to the cylinder tins. The credit for this idea goes to the engine builder of Skywalker's Type-4 in his Splitwindow bus.

https://i.imgur.com/zmncONY.jpg

With a Type-1 style or 911 style shroud the air now comes from the top instead of from the back like on an original type-4. With this mod air is guided around the heads towards all 4 exhaust ports. The original tins only have this at the number 4 cylinder. The number 4 cylinder already gets the least amount of air with a 911 style cooling ( The air has to make a S shape from the back of the fan to flow between the shroud and number 4 cylinder / head . Flowing air takes the path of least resistance. So without this mod the cylinder that gets the least amount of air flow is also the only one with a more restricted path for the airflow, The path of least resistance
are the gaps between cylinder 3 and 1 and the shroud, alot of air is lost without cooling anything.

Some before and after photos

Cylinder 1
https://i.imgur.com/OH4BQqk.jpg?1

Cylinder 2
https://i.imgur.com/douRjTI.jpg?1

Cylinder 3
https://i.imgur.com/zIlwxhE.jpg?2

Cylinder 4
https://i.imgur.com/zop7sj2.jpg?2

And After modification

https://i.imgur.com/ifKUMTU.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/RiZ4vk1.jpg?2

With this mod all the air is forced through the cooling fins off the cylinders and heads.

And in my case the most important ( piece of mind ) upgrade.

Swivel-ball to swivel feet valve adjustment screws.

https://i.imgur.com/TPvb1wd.jpg?1

And yes I checked that all the feet can move without touching the rockers.

Wow, awesome mods! I'm going to steal some of your ideas for my someday upcoming 2056. I have a set of those lower cylinder tins already. :)

Like I mentioned before the idea of the cooling tins is not mine. I just thougt it would be helpfull to share this idea again.
Another thing I did to improve airflow/cooling of the heads is remove all the casting imperfections and blockages between the cooling fins on the new heads, using a 1mm. thin cutoffdisk on an angle grinder, a drill and dremel tool.

For the first time I have over 200 horsepower in my car.
To bad I can only use half of it at once.

https://i.imgur.com/Z49DUSK.jpg?1

When everything was bolted on and connected again, it started on the first try, and runs perfect. I have no photographic evidence it was to dark.
AFR is in the high 13s at low and high rev's with the current jets. I think I will only change the accelerator pump jets from 33 to 35.
When I open the gas quickly on the test stand it revs up without running lean with the 33"s. The first time in the car, it ran lean while accelerating with the 33 accelerator pump jets installed.

venturi 32 try 30
main jets 125
Idle jets 52 try 55
air corrector jets 180
emulsion tube 9164.2
accelerator pump jets 33 try 35

Now I want to install the engine asap in the car and start finetuning with the DRLA's under load and with a warm engine.

I also have a set of italian 40 IDF's I want to test

Out with the old(er)

https://i.imgur.com/fUezD3Q.jpg?1

I with the (re)new(ed)

https://i.imgur.com/0ZpswsR.jpg?1

April 1st.
No joke, it runs and drives super smooth, lots more torq than the Type-1 1904cc..:)

I started with reamed 47 idle jets reamed to 55. The AFR was good but the engine was not running even on all cylinders.

I measured these jets and they were all differend in size. If I would make them as big as the biggest one the engine would run to rich.

The other jets I have are 52 and 58 Idle jets. The 52 were around 15 and the 58 idle jets around 12 on the AEM Air fuel gauge

I could borrow a jet reamer set from a friend and started to enlarge the 52 idle jets in very small increments until the gauge was showing numbers in the high 13's.
When driving at a constant RPM there was a small dip around 3200 rpm at the transition between the idle circuit and the main jets.
I adjusted the float hight from the starting point of 6mm. to 5.5mm. and the dip was gone.

I will post a youtube link later to show how constant the AFR is from 1000 to 4500 rpm

Very happy with the result.

When I'm done with testing carburators and no longer need the AEM gauge and o2 sensor in the exhaust I will replace the CSP Python with the GPP exhaust.

Before I could install that exhaust I had to do some tedious but important mods. First I matched the inside opening of the copper gasket rings to the exhaust pipe.

https://i.imgur.com/ZY6gVHa.jpg?1

Now all 4 gaskets have the same size as the exhaust pipe mating surface

https://i.imgur.com/gpuXOhm.jpg?1

On one of the exhaust pipes the mating surface was not completly flat.
On the picture below you can see it almost done, there is still some black marker visible.

https://i.imgur.com/6M4F8JS.jpg?2

And on one side the pipes were not perfectly parallel to each other so I spend half an hour doing this.
Just like Jeff often said on homebuild by Jeff on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfPmTOin29w

MORE SANDING.. YAY!!.

https://i.imgur.com/QwX2eLu.jpg?1

I did a leak test with an aircompressor and some soapy water and it's leak free.

Nice job! I like the oilcooler positioning in the front spoiler a lot as well.

Thanks, the oilcooler is for a Mazda rx7 and fits perfect.

This is a very short film during the tuning of the carburators and jets.
AFR at this stage was running a bit to rich under acceleration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qydgk9cmUnE

Serious question. Is this necessary or not?
Not so serious explanation why I did this. I wanted to go faster when driving in reverse, so I gave my airplane propeller some more air.

https://i.imgur.com/yLfoNEU.jpg?1

Mounted the number / license plate on longer bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/L0owSMR.jpg?1

Tapped NPT thread into two regular nuts and welded those onto the rocker covers to connect the vent / oil return hoses.

https://i.imgur.com/dK2NTad.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/S1TmzuI.jpg?1

The carburator tuning is done, so I no longer need an O2 sensor. I replaced the CSP Phyton with the GPP exhaust. It sounds great standing behind the car. In the car the intake sound is much louder than the exhaust. When buying this exhaust you can choose between 3 sizes. I chose the largest and most quiet, which is 160mm.

https://i.imgur.com/CQoiiaQ.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ruXr0zt.jpg?2

Update on the 2056cc Type 4

Intake manifold to cylinderhead port matching + heat insulator spacers

https://i.imgur.com/6tUDPPy.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/NjU98ey.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/xzrwX7r.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/BI42bTl.jpg?1

And port match the intake to the 44 IDF carburators + heat insulator spacers

https://i.imgur.com/jIIQgBZ.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/YildicQ.jpg?1

Nothing more I can do at home on the engine.

Ready to take it to the next step.

https://i.imgur.com/C0tJ29n.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/6XuboIv.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/I8qwU2S.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/JcWhl1D.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/W5xABHx.jpg?1

Next update it will run on the engine stand.:)

Love this build.. Thanks for taking the time to post up.

There is no take 2 for a first start. To dark and short, but it's proof it's alive.

https://youtu.be/sGn_HEXjngg

Sounds very good ;)

It sounds better in real life than on video. For some reason my camera mic. does not pick up the exhaust and induction noise but you can hear the ticking from the valve train very clear on video.

For the first start and cam brake in it ran very rich 11 12 on the AEM AFR gauge

I started with 55 Idle jets. And 1,5 turns on the Idle mixture screws. For the cam break in I only synchronised the carbs and let it run at 2000 rpm. for 20 minutes. Next time I will start testing different jets and tune the carburators. They ran surprisingly well straight out of the box.

Nice taste, I like eye candy:)

I second that, and that's out of the engine compartment.

More info on the exhaust, or a link?

Car looks excellent!

Link to his contact info.

http://www.german-performance-parts....ontact&lang=NL

Link to the exhaust on the German Performance Parts site.

http://www.german-performance-parts....id=962&lang=NL