Some jobs take more time than expected, these innerwings are that kind of a job.
The holes from drilling the spotweld had to be welded, they did not match with the new location. In the past someone mounted an emergency switch, this had to be closed as well.
After welding the holes, I smoothed them and I cleaned the area that can't be reached later on.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/105199.jpg

And before you know it....time's up.

didn't want to do bodywork today, so I did some work on the chassis.

I was not satisfied with the place where the fuellines came out the chassistube. again a hole was made :P
It does not show on the pictures, but the hydraulic clutchline is now near the fuellines.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/105645.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/105646.jpg

Paul.

New package arrived from the US of A :)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/105664.jpg

Great work again!! A true metal master! Nice brake proportioning valve. I will be using a similar one also.

Thanx, I have a bias balancebar that can be adjusted with this cable and I have a 7 stage reduce valve on the back brakes. The correct setting must be there somewhere;)

Why do you have both? You ought to only need one particularly for a road car? The balance bar set up will give a huge variation in bias on its own.

Clive

My master cylinders are pretty big (both 1"). Not sure if I need it, but now I can hold back the front brakes with the bias and the rear with the 7 stage reducer. Time will tell.

Paul.

I don't know what your brake caliper cylinder volumes are, but in my situation I chose MCs that were too large, 1" and 3/4" I think, so I'm going to have to down size to get some reasonable pedal pressure and travel, currently it's a little workout for the leg and moves about 1"....

Jason

Hi Jason,

I am using a 1" MC for the front brakes and 1" MC for the rear brakes, thacalipers are porsche 944 I. we'll see what happens.

Fahrvergngen,

I am currently trying to sort out my brakes (944 single pots at the front and 928S4 rears + hydraulic handbrake). By all my calculations the pedal movement on a standard 19/19 dual m/c should have been 28mm + 5mm for the free play until the pad touches the disc, then the component flexing and pad compression come into play resulting is a moderate pedal movement. I do have much more than this that may be a m/c problem or flexing of the seal/handbrake mech in the hydraulic handbrake. the standard 944 single pots have virtually no movement on their own with the 19mm cylinder as the caliper mech holds the pad to the disc with no relief or knockback.
However, the braking performance was such that I to am considering a 1" dual m/c (possibly BMW) to shorten the pedal travel. My next try will be a 944 stepped cylinder 23/19 that should confirm or not a) the rebuilt 19/19 m/c is at fault b) the pedal pressures are still acceptable with larger m/c pistons and c) improve the bias further to the rear - the car will be used for Autotesting.

Clive

Hi Clive,

I did not calculate things, its just try and error and some eye-ball engineering.

Keep us posted on your experiance with the MC"s

Paul.

Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml

Thanks Aart-Jan, thats good reading.

Today I started on making the anti rollbar brackets, This anti rollbar started it's live on a pink "killer Kitty" opel.

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106422.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106423.jpg

Paul.

Guys, its not wise to mess with expensive changes in cylinder sizes from just pedal 'feel' alone without running the pads in on the fly for a good bit, it can make a huge improvement to the pedal height and save you chasing your tail, frame type sliding calipers need a lot of running in, personally, a mechanical balance bar is far preferable to hydro valves which also affect pedal feel, i don't like these and avoid them like the plaque, as Clive says, you shouldn't need both.;)

First fitment test of the anti-rollbar, I think it needs a little modifications.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106671.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106672.jpg

Paul.

Looking good again! Sway bars can be thicker then you think, so these may just be 'right' :)
Maybe turn-around that tack welded bracket 180 degrees so you have more free room for the bar to move?

I don't deny that the two could complimenty each other but I doubt whether many on here have the ability to be able to fine tune the braking characteristics to optimise retardation, hence my reference to road car where the load changes would merit constant fiddling and tinkering in a desparate effort to get the best retardation. I'm a strong advocate of the KISS principle and adding in too many variables and adjustments that are beyond the simple running of a vehicle detracts severly from enjoyment.

If you plan on going to the track regularly,then I´m sure you´ll find the right setting for just about any condition.I have 911 carerra 4-pot monoblocks up front and the 911 discs. In the back I have the standard 944 floating calipers and discs (temporarily).The proportioning valve alone should be enough for my intentions,at least for starters.I also have a 944 master cylinder,but may change it for a better more modern master cylinder.

Thanks Wally,

I am thinking of turning it 90 degrees, this way the uniball kan move freely. I moved the a-arm up and down and the sway bar does not hit a thing.

It's gonna be used on road, track and 1/4 mile. if I am not sure about the settings I still have the option to set the valve wide open.

Paul.

Did some sway-bar work today
Welded the new sway-bar brackets to the upper front axle tube, narrowed the tube to the chassis head width and closed the end of the tube, this way I have some strenght in the brackets and still have the original body mounts.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106758.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106757.jpg

Test with 90deg. turned uniball.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106762.jpg

The 90deg. turned uniball works great, so I made a new bracket (needs some more welding).
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106763.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106764.jpg

Put the grommet in and did a new test. The movement I can make without hitting anything is much bigger as the movement the shockabsorber can make.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106755.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106756.jpg

Paul.

Bought myself a nice donor body, this '58 Will speed things up 8)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/105514.jpg

Paul.

Right side of the sway bar is now ready too.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106933.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106934.jpg

To make sure all the fittings of the fuel line are ok, I checked them with some air pressure.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106932.jpg

On original oval has special floormat fasteners, so I welded these back on the floor.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106935.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106936.jpg

Paul.

Picked up the '58 donor for the oval today.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106986.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106987.jpg

Looking good.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106988.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106989.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106990.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106991.jpg

And a bus full of rust free '58 goodies
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/106993.jpg

It's almost a shame to cut this to pieces, but it will happen. :twisted:

Paul.

Time to take out the old grinder again :o. I really need the parts for my oval, but still it was difficult to cut up this nice '58.

No way back now.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107543.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107544.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107545.jpg

Paul.

After a lot of drilling, the dash is out.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107626.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107627.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/107628.jpg

Paul.

Hey,

How is it going?
any news? :)

Stevo

Hi Steve,

I am very buisy wright now drilling all the spotweld of the donor car, no pictures yet. Als had a very cool weekend at EBI #4.

Paul.

The EBI Chimay weekend was superb, but now it is oval time again.
Al the old repairs are cut out of the donor front and today I started cleaning the underside of it.

This is a very good piece of German metal. :)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/108994.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/108995.jpg

Paul.

Finally did something visible again.

Complete parafan removed.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109330.jpg

Took a wile to find the currage, but it had to be done.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109331.jpg

Both doorpillars removed :shock: :shock:
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109329.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109332.jpg

Paul.

a few holes.
Looked at an original , never welded body and then circled all the original holes. The rest has to be welded.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109503.jpg

How it should be.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109504.jpg

After storage for many years, this all original (only the exhaust cutouts are not original), rust free and never welded oval is my workshop neighbor. now i can check it if I need to know how things should be. (i am not aloud to touch it ;D)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/109505.jpg

Paul.

Replaced the right windshield heater thing and repaired the left one.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/110340.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/110341.jpg


In the past someone drilled a lot of holes in this car, today I fixed it. This is a difficult to reach area, so while I was in there I might as well bare metal it.

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/110727.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/110728.jpg

Paul.

nice :)

Getting close 8)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/111218.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/111219.jpg

Paul.

My hat is off to you. Lots of metal work going into this one.

Really nice (and quick too)

:)

Thanks Guys,

I am not afraid of doing new things. this kind of work is new for me, but i'll get there.

Paul

Satrting to look good.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/111244.jpg

Right side is getting there as well.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/111245.jpg

Paul.

Between family live, work and some work on my daily passat, the oval is going forward as well (slowly).
Bolted the nose on the body, now i can see better what to do and where to do it.
It looks like the right is OK.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/113087.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/113090.jpg

On the left I had some fitting problems, probably the welds from the pedalbox where to hot. I cut out the piece that did not fit and welded in a bigger piece instead.
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/113088.jpg
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/113089.jpg

Still needs some welding, grinding and sanding.

Paul.