still not the best picture but can give some idea how they will look. Still confused about the colour of the nuts, can't decide between black or gold (anodized)

http://img.carstyling.hu/usercars/00...1275731164.jpg

wow the wheels are beautiful! I would go for black. I think gold is too much, but I could be wrong :)

Wheels look great.

Man those are nice..
+1 for black..
Alex

Love the wheels, can't wait to see them on the car.

another +1 for black, gold will look dirtier faster and be harder to clean once assembled. Black is good at hiding dirt and brake dust :) I tried the same thing with zinc coating wheel nuts and the only looked great for a while

Hey guys, thanks for the help, will go with black nuts .. next step is putting all the wheels together and fit the tyres.

In the meantime I have started playing with the brakes as well.

The plans are the following:
Front: 4 piston brembos with 316x28 vented discs (Mercedes)
Back: 4 piston brembos with 300x28 vented discs (Mercedes)
Handbrake: drum-style handbrake (Mercedes) or hydro
Wilwood brake bias valve
Bigger master cylinder
As you can see it is not a plug and play setup, but an other challange to be done..
Btw what do you think about the colour of the calipers?
1, Red calipers with gold Brembo lettering
2, Gold calipers with grey lettering
3, grey calipers with gold lettering
4, tell me the best

Definitively in black chord goes to your VW

Gold with Grey lettering is my vote, subtle yet conrasting.

Jason

Not too much, but some calipers arrived today :cool: Good to know that the LM clears them perfectly without spacers

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...76233~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...76232~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...76232~original

Yesterday was the day of the first start of the engine. No oil leaks & healthy sound.. everything seems OK :) I've decided to match the color of the fanshroud with the wheels not with the car

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...1.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...2.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...3.jpg~original

Hi,

This is a neat looking car... And this engine is very beautifull... Hope it stays as clean as it now is...

Regards

Sebastien

Here is a short video of the engine if you're interested. Enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yMekwWfpdU

after that some oil appeared under the engine..still not sure where it is from :( I would say the oil filler or the tube of the pushrod but have to check it again.

And the brakes I'm planning to use..
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...k.jpg~original

Worked a bit on the car

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...6.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...7.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...1.jpg~original

Nice touches there!!!

Looking good.

where did you purchase the pedals from

Ebay (UK) seller: Ian5718

http://img.carstyling.hu/usercars/00...1270412563.jpg

Hi, not too much to share, but at least the car is on the road again. New wheels and some new parts in the interior (steering wheel, shifter, pedals, oil pressure and temperature gauges, Sparco harnesses) for now. The breaks will be the winter project

http://img.carstyling.hu/usercars/00...1302684776.jpg

http://img.carstyling.hu/usercars/00...1302684787.jpg

http://img.carstyling.hu/usercars/00...1302617346.jpg

Now the bad point. I had some issues with the type4. One of the bushings (?) of the spark plugs had to be fixed -> engine came out, heads off (I repaired all of them)

Since the engine was out I picked out the lifters and pushrods as well to check if everything was OK with them. And I found this:

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...6.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...5.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...7.jpg~original

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...4.jpg~original

You can feel the little holes with your fingers on the top and side as well..now please tell me what do you think about it? Material defect or what? Has anybody seen lifters like theese?

I ordered the complete valvetrain kit as a package, so parts should work together well. The engine ran nearly half an hour (oil was OK) so the break in procedure has NOT finished yet..that's why I'm not sure about what to do. Try other lifters or keep theese :confused:

the camface on those look almost identical to the ones in my engine. i pulled them after my trip to and from daytona for winterjam last year. those side shots are a little strange. i woulld like to hear some other opinions though.

where can i get those front bumper lights?? any link?
thanks in advance.

Very nice car! I like the new wheels.

I don't like the look of those lifters at all and I'm not sure what that 2nd pic is with the deposits. I hate to say it but a "peace of mind" tear down might be in order. With wear like that, even on a new motor, I would pull it all out and check all bearings and wear surfaces. Probably not the answer you want to hear but that's what I would do.

Bad casting is my guess, if the bores are OK you might be able to get away with just putting in new lifters.

Jason

I'd email the photos to the seller (Jake?) and see what he says.

One question, do you still have the short loop of pipe attached to the oil ports on the case or has that changed?

they are the smoked version of original vw golf (rabbit) MKI-II lights, so easy to find.

Thanks for the comments guys.

I have contacted the seller immediately, he adviced me to keep using the lifters and finish the break-in. Other lifters may demage the cam and maybe I was using poor oil during the break in.

I'm with Jason about bad casting, so not sure about putting them back. Tried, but was not able to get the same lifters as can't be purchased separately...so I got an other set from ebay, but it seems gambling to see if they go well with the cam.

I hear you Humble and I'm afraid you're right..but maybe I will give a chance for the new lifters. If they work than it's happy end, otherwise tear down should be done.

@Bruce: if you refer to the oil cooler adapter (red one), the answer is yes it is still connected with that pipe. Why are you asking that?

Cams
 

Hi, one thing I have noticed about VW cams; the case hardness. I had a 2332 type one chew up some lifters just like that. It is my understanding that most cams come some-wat hardened. However the lifter are harden. From what I remember in the first start up we should run up the rpm to 2500-3000 for about one hour. This is supposed to season the cam, or equally hardened both parts. Something was of lessor hardness, no doubt. My question is, are you to believe that things won't go even more wrong? Even I a know nothing, knows better than that.

The problem is, with VW's doing a cam is just like doing a total overhaul. On my type IV project, I bought a cam from Pauter with a one inch base circle. I was told that the cam would not be any problems. Most sellers of cams don't harden their cams, they send them out. And I wonder just how much do they pay to have their cams tempered. I had my cam re-hardened to 61 Rockwell, I plan to buy a set of hardened 356 styled lifters to match my cam. At one point I want to try and do a roller cam setup. I went to Iskyderian camshafts. I was lucky enough to speak with Ed Iskyderian himself. He did not want to make a one time cam. But he did share something with me; he said roller cams are both equally hardened to the same hardness. Thus me having my cam hardened. I would not send the many bits of metal though out my engine. I also would buy a new cam and have it hardened myself. Lastly get a good set of lifters. On my 356 lifters I had a .020 oil hole laser drilled, did your lifter come with the oil hole? Is you lifters and bore re-bored for type one lifters. To much work and possible engine failure to chance it:o. Is the name Jake the same as Jake Raby? Once you damaged the hardend area, its just surface hardend.

Hi,

I know in the States that is the common way to break-in an engine. I have read a lot about it and also Jake pointed my attention to this. However I understand the "why" in Europe it is not so popular. I don't know how did you do yours but I know a few engines that skipped this method and all of them still run great.

That is a good question. One hand if something is really wrong, it may cause major failure I know. On the other hand engine never ran without oilfilter, and no metal was found in the oil. + Jake says the lifters will be hardened till the break-in period ends. -> can't decide, lack of experiences.

Yes, the complete valvetrain is from R.A.T., I wanted to purchase a complete set to avoid this kind of issues..but I called him "seller" bacause I really don't want anybody to feel that I'm saying it is Jake's fault, he is selling poor quality products or something like this. I just wanted to show you the facts and ask for your advice. As you can see on his website all the lifters has the oil hole and all of them are parkerized before be selled.

The question is if it's a "user error" and we did something wrong or I'm just unlucky with this set of lifters (like the guys who help building the engine had similar issues with Schleicher and Scat parts as well). **** happens, no one can guarantee what" going on during the production. The bad thing I can't buy a new set of them

I saw two things in the last photo of your engine bay but they may have changed.

First, the engine had no sealing tinwear around it to isolate the fan intake from the hot air around the exhaust. The fan needs cool air to cool the engine. The photo might be out of date of course.

Second, the case had an adapter connected to the oil cooler ports. The short hose linked the output back into the input. I couldn't see any oil cooler on the engine. A t4 with no oil cooler will overheat the oil which is used to cool the bottom end.

Both these issues will overheat the engine but perhaps I missed something :confused:

thanks!!!

I have an external oil cooler mounted in front with hoses, fittings, thermostat whatever and have the tinwear as well but haven't installed them yet. Engine just have been put in the car and a few minutes later the spark-plug issue happened thus engine came out. I didn't drive the car at all so overheating is not a question at the moment.

Ok
 

Well, if you can't get a new set (cam/lifters), you will have to just drive it until you develop a engine mis. Good luck:o

You can buy a set of those lifters alone. They are Scat Lube-A-Lobe lifters with SLR treatment (Polished/Parkerized). I think aircooled.net sells them. From what I see in the pix, it looks like there is still parkerizing in the pits.

Thanks for the useful information!!

A bit off topic
 

What are the break in procedures in Europe?

I had some pits in the faces of my lifters (same brand). Not as many as you have. I put them back and ran thru the break-in ordeal (3000 RPM for 30 min.) again. Pulled them for inspection (also looked at the cam lobes). I did it a total of 4 times to be sure (total of 2 hrs at 3000 RPM). The faces polished up nice and they are running fine. I did not have any pits in the sides so I cant speak to that.

Great info again, thanks for it. Based on this post and Jake's e-mail I think I will put back mines, do the brake-in to see what happens..will report

after break-in put some ZDDP additive in the oil to protect it from further wear. Zinc was removed from most motor oils in the late 90's but most older non-cat equipped cars with flat tappet /lifters need it. The pits you see comes from the heat treating and will work harden further during the break-in procedure.