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car looks good, like the color progression, I recently blacked out my chrome to make it look more uniform.
keep it up :D |
i admire your determination and those sweet ass fog lights
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POP!
New motor build is now a high-priority item, as my 1600dp is now just a paperweight. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...118458b174.jpg -Dave |
oh damn, looks like a good one too. Well you've got the makings for a stout 1776 just gotta get it together.
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Ouch. Hot, Hot, Hot.
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My gosh the cleaning/measuring part of engine building is boring, eh?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/...187b652b_b.jpg Well, some of it is at least. Started with the heads on the weekend. I don't have intake/exhaust yet, so no port matching. But I did clean up the exhaust ports a little to get rid of the sharp edge as you exit the valve. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/...712d2baec3.jpg Before shot above, after shot below. Not easy to see I guess...but you can feel the difference! http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/...a943e32a_o.jpg Next up was CC'ing the heads but I'm going to have to go back and recheck them, make sure I'm absolutely dead-nuts accurate on each one. My first go measured a range from 50-55cc's, which is unacceptable. I'll need to rule out measuring method, and then decide how to even it out. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/...137f349a68.jpg Piston Rings measured and installed... http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2677/...4cf33540e6.jpg Rod bolts measured, rods assembled, rod bearing clearance checked and axial play measured... http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/...21ebaec331.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2790/...f82675258c.jpg Timing gear fun! My housemate was rather confused about the camp stove on the work bench until I explained it to him. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/...7e67e1c2_b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2760/...320bb2e400.jpg Test fitting http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/...512e7dc078.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/...52dcce25_o.jpg And measuring the deck height...with which I have a problem. I've got -0.007", and my cylinders aren't even torqued down. Shims will be in here in a couple of days, so I tore it back down for balancing. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2685/...bea218cde3.jpg I'll have the parts back from balancing today, they did two-day turnaround for me due to Easter weekend...but I think I'm paying out the nose for it. Garage needs to be cleaned again before I do the real build, and I might try and relax for a few days first. Perhaps I'll hit up some of the other items on the before I go back to to the motor. -Dave |
Yeah the cleaning and measuring and checking and fitting and building and tearing down again is no fun but wait until you get to the nail biting cam break in. Dave and I both just went through that and I think its the worst part of a new build.
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Looks like you are moving right along. I see you put the wisperlite to good use. You should have seen the look on my wife's face the first time I had a crank gear on the stove in the kitchen and assembled it on the kitchen island. I did have an old pot and a board to lay it out on.
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old pot?
I made breakfast in that pot this morning... ;) -Dave |
Since those are new heads,
Take them to your local FLAPS machine shop and have the guides pushed out of the way. Not out, just out of the way. Then port, port, port... It makes cleaning/trial assembly seem fun. Chambers too... To get your CR & keep the deck tight. Have them back-cut the intake valve - cheap, easy.. You will leave a lot of power on the table if you leave the heads like that. Power is in the heads. THe rest of your combo is crying for headwork. -My $.02.. FWIW.. Car is shaping up really sweetly, brother. Give it some huevos! (I saw that picture on the Thule site!) |
Interesting to hear the photos made Thule's site. I haven't seen them, got a link?
In regards to the heads, it's one area I cheaped out on for sure. Didn't have the budget for the heads I wanted, having blown up the 1600 earlier then 'planned'. I'm torn between spending the money on the machine work for this set vs getting the heads I want and working on those in the summer. I'm also on a time crunch, I co-organize a classic car event called the Spring Thaw Classic Car Adventure, and I've got 25 days before I need to have this car running and debugged at the start :) http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/...558f40ca_o.jpg The parts are back from balancing, and it's good to see that I didn't spend a pile of $$ to have them unpack and repack my parts ;) I did make them earn it though, tore the engine down at about 2am so they got to clean all the grease off them for me :) http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/...e8513f9b96.jpg Engine bits were cleaned for final assembly in the kitchen sink. I keep thinking we could use a shop sink in the garage, maybe next time? http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/...d48120ff41.jpg Light coat of black paint on the cylinders. Still torn on this one...might run them through the blast cabinet and rewash. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/...a3dd5489_o.jpg And, here's where I got to last night. Should have the the long block assembled today, need to think about the head work which will probably pause me for a week. That will give me a chance to attack some things on the chassis side of the equation. Only 25 sleeps until the Spring Thaw Classic Car Adventure, which I co-organize. Not a whole lot of time to button this up, test it and organize the event! -Dave |
Alrighty, so time for a little bit of an update on the engine. The weekend was frustrating as all hell...dropped the second half of the case on, and found the rotating assembly was binding every 2 turns of the crank....hmmm. Pulled the case, checked the cam reinstalled...same problem. Finally found a cam tooth that had the slightest of nicks, cleaned it up and that problem was solved.
Figuring it was smooth sailing from there (ha!) and moved onto endplay. Well, actually I went on a search in our small town for a 38mm socket...forgot the Scat gland nut wasn't a 36. Found that, back to the shop later when I realized it was 3/4" drive and then onto measuring endplay! Oh, but wait, we need to make a flywheel removal tool. And hey, look at that, my collection of flywheel shims doesn't have the ones I need. This was becoming a comedy. Fortunately there's an aircooled specialist in town, and he handed me his box of shims to take home for the night. They're used, but I've done that before... http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/...31fb20a067.jpg Once I had a better selection to choose from, dialing in the endplay was no issue. From there it was onto measuring deck height now that I've got the correct spacers to start with. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/...7a3cbfab_o.jpg I need to go back and add another spacer (for a total of .070"), but that will give me my desired .050" on each of the cylinders. I guess at this point I should mention that I've gone back on my original plans to not touch the heads, and instead had them dropped off with the machinist this morning. I realized they needed to go see him to be prepped for dual valve springs, and I needed him to CC the combustion chambers for me. I've done it twice, and was getting a 5cc difference across the four heads. I wasn't sure if it was my method or the heads causing the problem, so figured I'd have him double check. Glad I did! Quote:
So now I'm waiting for the heads to come back and then the final agony of setting the valve train will be upon me :) ------------ While frustrated on the weekend, I opted to take a break and add more weight to the car. Don't worry, it's fully removable in seconds thanks to Anderson PowerPole connections. I also screwed up on the first application of the 'suede', and didn't have enough material for a second layer. Meh, whatever, I'm the only one who's ever going to see it up close. I actually had to finish the sub box so that I could work out whether or not the Accusump was going to fit back there. Forgot to mock it up with the valve and cable though, so I still might be hooped on placement. Please excuse the wiring, I recently sold the truck that all of this came out of to a friend and haven't yet pulled the expensive wires. Just used some cheap stuff for the moment. Obviously I'll be hiding the wires under the carpet once the final placement and wiring is determined. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/...2844096604.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2563/...d3207cc0ab.jpg -Dave |
There really are days where it seems like nothing will go your way, but I think that gives you "one in the bag" for a day that will go perfect. I feel your pain with the flywheel nut, the last 3 motors I've built have had 3 different sizes and none of them stock. I have a drawer full of giant sockets now.
I think adding a little bump to your car is acceptable ballast for a GL :D You need to have something in the car that's louder than the motor right? |
Getting closer on the build...
Oil return fitting installed, and then I discovered that it's going to interfere with the engine tin. Hmmm. How have you guys dealt with this? http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2241/...caa82fb97c.jpg I've got multiple tin sets, and for now trimmed the tin to fit. Ran some silicone hose around the cut-out to make sure vibrations don't rub the tin against the fitting. Looks neater in person vs. the 'testing' shots. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/...a578880aeb.jpg Pistons & cylinders installed for the last time. Fuel pump, oil filler, oil pressure warning light and some cooling tin installed. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2171/...59be649d22.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2775/...327d7959b8.jpg Here's the head work that was done. All combustion chambers matched to 54cc and smoothed out. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/...6921edb725.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/...a46762a5f6.jpg Intake valves were given a 4-step cut, and the intake tracks were smoothed out and ported. Exhaust ports as well. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2261/...88d1c58f7b.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2754/...6ee2a0a4e2.jpg (hard to see, but its there I swear! :P) Dual valve springs... http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/...511447a337.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/...2411eb145c.jpg ...but I'm still stuck with the engine here for a while. Need a few other items before I can continue. In the meantime I figured out my oil filter mount, so I can figure out my oil line length and make those. Also wired up the sub, and worked on the Accusump for a bit. The sump is going to be a headache! http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/...ec40e70b9d.jpg These pieces of wood represent all the space i have to make the sump, air gauge, valve and hose fittings fit. At first look, it doesn't seem plausible...but it's just one more puzzle to solve. -Dave |
Well Humble, I got my 'perfect day'. Everything went so smooth in the garage today, it was faaaaantastic.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/...ee5fa87aea.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2771/...a5d7ccbd8d.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/...de4996163f.jpg You could say I'm making progress! :D It's 2am, which is ridiculous on a work night! I started by having a good afternoon in the garage and I just got on a great roll overall. Excuse the zipties and cross-over in the above photos, that's just me mocking everything up so I can set up the linkage/carbs as much as possible before taking them off to install the engine. Basically, once I install the exhaust and thread lock all the tin screws, the engine is ready to go into the car. The car isn't quite ready for the engine yet...I need to put in the new engine bay seals and plumb my oil filter and oil accumulator lines. Not sure how I'm going to do the fuel-line from the pump to my T fitting behind the shroud. I'm starting to think a hardline / softline combo might be the ticket. Mind you...I wouldn't be surprised if my car has that nice big loop of fuel line on it for the first few hundred miles :P Had a BIG scare tonight...I was adjusting the valves, basically the final thing before taking these photos, when I got to the last adjuster on #4. The adjuster was there, but no lock nut. I had been working on the engine with it tilted 90deg, so the head was straight up. Horror of all horrors, the only place that nut could have gone was straight down the pushrod tube. Couldn't see it with the light, couldn't feel or get it with a magnet. Before starting to tear the motor down to the bare block I figured I'd better do a serious clean/check of the garage. Unbelievably, there was the nut sitting on the workbench...somehow I had knocked it off when backing off all the adjusters and hadn't noticed. I'm 100% positive it's the right nut too, these adjusters use a 12mm wrench on the lock nut. There are NO other 12mm nuts in my garage! PHEW!! The oil accumulator is causing me real problems due to space restrictions. If it wasn't for that, I could probably fire the engine up tomorrow night and break in the cam/lifters. -Dave |
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