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You will love the watsons streetworks harness. The wiring layout for the lights is nothing like VW's, but it works. Make sure and have the bentley manual handy when you do the steering column and wipers. ;)
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I got the hood struts installed with the hinges and they do indeed function fine. Hard to believe that much force is required but I guess the good old T=F*r holds true.
I am really tempted to get the hood mounted, but the logical side tells me not to until the wiring is done and the gas tank is in. BUT I WANT TO SEE THE HOOD MOUNTED!!!!!!!!! |
Quote:
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Not sure where you want me to measure from. do you want the hinge bolt to the body pin measurement, shaft length, or full strut length?
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I talked to FAT performance and they also recommended replacing the valve springs considering they are almost 20 years old now. They may not be broken but could be fatigued by remaining compressed, which I guess is debatable but I'd rather just replace them than drop a valve and blow my engine up. So now I'm looking into valve spring compressors for the 914 2.0 heads with the 3 studs. I found this one on CB performance which claims to work with T4 heads, but does that mean it will work with 914 2.0 heads?
http://www.cbperformance.com/Product...oductCode=6504 Anyone else have a tool they use? Also, my DTM shipped today! :cool: |
Anyone? How do you get your valve springs out? If you have a good argument for why I shouldn't replace them, I'm all ears.
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Hi
When I worked in VW shop we had valve spring tool that bolted to the head using the rocker studs and compressed all the valves at once. I've half made one I will post a photo soon Steve |
Hi
I just did a rough drawing of the tool I was talking about. It had a hole for the rocker stud to poke through. To take strees away from the rocker stud I used 5/8th bolt with a M8 thread tapped into the head of the bolt, the bolt was fitted hex end against the rocker post and 5/8th nut was then used draw the tool down. It worked in car as well if you put some compressed air into the cylinder. Steve http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original |
Actually looking at my drawing I see errors in my post.
The tool needs to fit inside the rocker box on the top edge and the sides so that it can wind down far enough to colapse the springs. |
Hey Steve,
I know I could make one, but I was wondering if there was already one being made. Those heads you've shown are vw heads, correct? They make tools for t1 heads and apparently for T4, but I'm concerned my heads are different than T4 heads since they are in fact 914 2.0L heads. The cb performance tool posted above claims to fit t4 but I don't think they will work with Porsche heads. |
Hi
As far as I know the 914 head use the same rocker gear as any Type 4 would and as the tool locates on the rocker shaft posts I cant see why the CB unit wouldn't work, plug location is different and there is maybe differences in chamber shape. The thing I like about the tool I tried to describe is that its very controlled as everything is bolted down securely. Steve |
I made one out of an old rocker shaft, an old jack handle and some scrap 3/16 flat steel cut and ground to a radius. Bolt it to the heads and it works well.
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NO_H20, do you think you could post up a picture if you get the chance?
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Awesome, thanks! What did you use as the cylinder to go around the rocker shaft? Old rocker arm? I will be headed down to the porsche yard this weekend to get some shafts and rocker arms.
I started thinking though... Should I not just take my heads off and use an easily available spring compressor? Will a spring compressor that I can rent from (autozone, oreilly, checker, etc) work with the heads off? What are the downsides of completely removing the heads? other than needed new gaskets. Other notes, my V2 DTM stage IV kit showed up at my door today. Very happy with the fiberglass quality. Gotta get started on the wiring. |
I used a section of pipe for the rocker shaft pivot. If you don't have any head leaks, no need to remove them. Use the tool to compress the springs. You can rotate the engine to almost TDC. Then stuff parachute cord down the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine a bit more to snug the cord against the valves (don't force it too much). The cord will keep the valves seated while you remove the springs. Remove the keepers, retainers and springs and replace what is needed. Double check the keepers. Rotate the engine back to remove the pressure on the cord and pull the cord back out the spark plug hole and move on to the next cylinder.
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Just did this on my engine, for all eight sets. If you have an air-compressor, I highly recommend trying to find a spark plug hole adapter that allows you to put 120psi of air into the cylinder to hold the valve up vs. the parachute (nylon) cord. It's a pain trying to get enough cord into the cylinder. I managed, and did all 8 in about two hours...but it would have been easier/faster without that cord.
-Dave |
I will try and find one of the spark plug adapters when I do it. I'm still torn as to whether I even need to replace the springs, but just to be sure I think I will replace them. The consequences of not replacing them if they are bad outweighs the cost of replacing them.
(1) Suggestions on which and who to buy dual valve springs from? (2) I need a fuel pump soon. Any recommendations or good reads on fueling for weber 40IDFs? (3) With the Watson Streetworks wiring harness, how are people mounting the relays now that the stock relay location is gone? |
Check my thread for possible consequences of not replacing the springs. It's in my latest post. The ones that weren't broken were 1/4" shorter then the new springs I put in. Noticeable difference in pressure required to remove/install as well.
3) Check VW / Audi wrecking yards. Cars from the 90's-2000's have a relay panel under the dash that unbolts. Usually 5 or 6 relay slots. You can get new terminal ends from the dealership (if you like spending money) or they use a simple 'keyed' female connector. Alternatively: Bosch part number - 3 334 485 008 You'll need the terminals as well, but the people you buy the Bosch part from will have the terminals. Painless Wiring - P/N 30108 is a 6-relay bank with wires. -Dave |
Anyone have fuel system suggestions? If I want to go turbo eventually should I just pony up for a better fuel pump? Also, is it mandatory to have a fuel pressure regulator for carburated cars?
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Carter GP60504. You can get one from Summit.
Whatever spring you choose. Be sure to check for coil-bind when the valves are fully open. If the spring does not have some more room to compress when the valve is fully open, bad things happen in a short amount of time (broken springs and dropped valves). |
So it's been a long time, I got distracted doing track days on this thing...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...1107141251.jpg but I have a couple questions right off the bat. I got the DTM shroud on and mocked up, but it seems like the alternator is sticking out too far. Potential reasons why? Shouldn't the DTM fit in the late model beetles/supers with ease? I haven't installed the decklid, but initial mock up suggests it won't close but just barely. I may be able to get away with getting rid of the billet pulley bolt+spacer from Raby, but it's a shiny little piece I'd like to use. Maybe I'm just being paranoid and it will fit fine when I mount the decklid. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...1116141641.jpg I'd be really disappointed if I mounted the transmission too far back in the car, but don't know how I could have mounted it any differently. I'll try to get some more pictures under the car tomorrow. I have the shortened nose cone on the trans, and the bellhousing actually sits slightly towards the front of the car in the cradle. Any help would be appreciated... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...k%2Bup%2B-%2B4 The kafer brace adds maybe 1/4" between the frame horns and the bellhousing cradle. That's the only thing I can think that is adding spacing. https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...255eff7d1937f4 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...k%2Bup%2B-%2B2 The right side carb is really quite close to the body, but it won't interfere with the decklid. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p...k%2Bup%2B-%2B1 Finally a photo from the side to show the clearance issues. The crank pulley should clear the apron but I can't tell until I buy a new one, mucked up the first. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...k%2Bup%2B-%2B3 Last thing, I'm trying to put my new A1 headers on, but I can't seem to get the old headers off. Suggestions how to get at this nut? It's good to be back and I'm hoping to get the motor running before the end of the year. I got some gauges from SpeedHut that look pretty nice. I'll post some pictures soon. I'M GOING TO FINISH THIS DAMN THING! |
I initially had some clearance issues with my 901/DTM setup, but had the transmission positioned in the middle of the slots, on the rear Bug@5speed transmission mount (frame horn side). I loosened the nuts on the rubber pads, between the mount and transmission, and pushed the transmission back as far as I could, so that the rubber mounts pushed into the area where the engine meets the bell housing. I had to trim the rubber pads slightly, but it gave me just enough clearance between the decklid and alternator pulley. Couldn't see the position of your mount in the pic. Can you mockup the decklid to confirm the issue?
Edit -- Just saw your brace spacing issue. I have had that cause issues in the past (due to the extra space). You could also unbolt the front bars, and confirm fitment. If that fixes it, you could look at another mounting point on the other side of the transmission bracket, or weld to the bracket, if the geometry allows it. I had a similar brace, and it was somewhat difficult to install. |
I finally got the motor started and I'm in the process of tuning up the carbs. I started having this squeaking noise coming from the flywheel/clutch. When I depress the clutch pedal, the noise disappears. THoughts?
https://youtu.be/qrMaSYGxcPg Just want to drive it already :driving: |
Release bearing sounds like the culprit
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You mean the throw out bearing?
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Does anyone have a diagram of what components should be installed between the throwout bearing and the clutch assembly? I have a 901 transmission mated to a type 4 motor. I'd have to check on the flywheel size.
I'm wondering if I was supposed to have some sort of centering collar or sleeve. |
I do yes. I'm not too familiar with the 901, it may need one, else if they are constant contact they can sometimes go dry and make a noise.
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https://patrickms.s3.amazonaws.com/p...f8599_part.jpg
901 Transmission definitely has a clutch guide tube as part of the assembly (#1). Early 901 has the clutch guide tube held on with two studs/nuts at 12 and 6 o'clock. Later 901 has the two studs at 2 and 8 o'clock. The guide tubes, I believe are the same, but to be sure I'd need a photo of your transmission without the clutch fork/bearing installed. -Dave |
Thanks! I definitely have the clutch guide tube installed, I checked and you can see it installed on page 2 of this thread! Phew! So it seems like everything is installed correctly. I thought maybe there needed to be a bushing that installed into the clutch fingers that the throwout bearing rode on.
I'm going to try and adjust the clutch cable and then the shift rod connection if clutch adjustment doesn't fix it. The problem is that the clutch pedal doesn't have any play so it seems I need to loosen the tension. However, I tried getting it into gear while idling and the gears ground with the clutch all the way to the floor. I managed to get it into gear with a quick and firm shift, although it made a smallish grinding noise. |
Saving me the trouble of reading back through your thread, are you able to answer any of the following:
1) Year of 901 transmission. 2) Model of Porsche the transmission came out of? (911, 912, etc) 3) Serial numbers and stampings on your transmission. 4) Photos of the following: - Bellhousing, clutch fork and bearing installed. - Bellhousing, clutch fork and bearing not installed. - Clutch fork end, and your cable setup. 5) Part number on your clutch fork. For now, before you pull the engine, reply with everything you're able to answer. Scour your photographs, and crawl under your trans for all the numbers and stampings. Basically, there are a number of different types of "901 transmission". There is the early aluminum case 901, there is the later magnesium cased 901 and then there is the 70-71 911 transmission which was based on the 901 but uses a pull-type clutch assembly. Basically, first step is sorting out which transmission you have. Then, the next is sorting out if that may have to do with your clutch issue. HTH, or at least...hope it will! -Dave |
There is a given with grinding gear selection, the driven plate is exactly that, it's being driven, it's rotating with the fly when it should be ' released' and not free, so you can't get gears, two common reasons are the input shaft ' gland nut' or equivalent bearing are missing or failed leaving the shaft waggling in the breeze, or the driven plate is to thick, measure thickness against a known working plate, this one is very common.
Also Sometimes the input shaft is too long causing the same effect, it produces noise as described and grinding gears, it may be bottoming on the crank when the motor bolts are synched down, easy fix with a grinder. |
Better late than never?
Hey all, it's been awhile, but I've been slowly chipping away at the car pretty inconsistently. Quite a lot of updates to share. I finished painting the exterior, swapped out the fixed back seats (comfier for Dad), installed carpet, windows, and probably a bunch more I'm forgetting.
Paint: I actually paid someone locally to paint the remaining parts (Kerscher fenders, decklid, kamei spoiler, dash, etc). The sad part is that there was a paint mix up that was partially my fault and partially unprofessionalism. The paint ended up not matching and the painter basically wanted to charge me again, so I just did it myself. Bad Paint https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Here's some shots of me fixing the bad paint. Not only did it not match, but it had some significant pin holes and some terrible prep work (chipped fiberglass corners). This is only my second time really ever painting. I think it came out nicely, but feel free to give me some pointers. First I figured out the issue with the paint. I had the painter use old paint and for some reason one can was not like the the others. I also was unable to match the existing paint by getting a new can of L96M mixed (even in the same brand). https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Fixing pin holes https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Primer and quick rinse https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Smoothing out more crappy prep work https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Rented a spray booth in town and got to business. Some of the parts had a lot of primer work to fix the mistakes so I first hit them with primer/surfacer (green). Then since I was still using the old paint I had, I sprayed the first base layer with a new can of L96M that doesn't match perfectly and followed with two layers of the old paint that matches. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Wear your safety equipment, auto paint is nasty. If I ever do it again or more often, I will definitely have a fresh air supply instead of an air filter. Google Isocyanates. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Little video link https://photos.app.goo.gl/wu2eebEPb7CyEgU6A First Coat https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Clear Coat:D:D:D:D:D https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 Assembled Finally! https://photos.app.goo.gl/2MBHYfkbgr56bbyC8 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 I will eventually fab up a bracket to mount an earlier style bumper instead of the bulky plastic 1974 fenders. If you look at the front bumper, I mounted an earlier style with the integrated turn signals. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 |
Your car and paint looks great. I have a sugestion what to use for the rear bumper. I would use a front bumper like you have in the front but without the integrated turn signals. A front bumper fits nicer with your wider Kerscher rear fenders.
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Nice build! Where did you find that dashboard?
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The front bumper is a good thought! I have an older model rear bumper but the radius seems to be a bit to tight and it sticks out a bunch.
The dashboard is from a fiberglass VW shop in Arizona by me called Glass Action. https://glass-action.com/index.php/p...Dash-p57160526 Here's a pic of it in the car. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 And the new seats! Corbeau with the VW plaid. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0 |
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