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034 Efi
I imagine you are familar with the VWvortex (vwvortex.com)? The guys from 034 are very active in the 1.8t forums on the vortex. I have heard that the 034 customer support is excellent via the vortex and over the phone. I am helping a friend install 034 on his 1.8t Audi A4 this week. Which 034 unit are you using? Let us know how you like the EFI.
I love you project by the way. I'm sure the 1.8t forums would love to see some of the pictures you have posted here. Keep up the good work!!! |
Thanks Levi! I havn't actually had a chance to get the engine running yet, but I have no doubt Javad will help me any way he can. Keep me posted on how your project comes. I got the IIc setup.
Jason |
aircooled.net sells Morse cables. That is what you want.
rad project! I am installing a Redline R882C ECU on my project which has specs like the stage IIC from Javad. |
Thanks Steve, the Lokar guys were really not in the same catagory. It was all street rod stuff, and I suspect the Morse stuff is what I want. No progress at all lately, except for slow movement with the front brakes. Epoxy is down on the garage floor, so this weekend everything will be piled back in and I can start to organize. It sucks not knowing where anything is!
Jason |
Epoxy floors! Dayum! Must be nice to have the fancy workshop.:cool:
BTW, I'm running a morse for my throttle, tons of diff little ends and brackets avail and lengths up to 14ft. Jeff- |
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I'm not THAT high maintanence you know! Jason |
just finished reading the majority of this post and found several items interesting.
1) what are teh advantages to the double wishbone that you expect to get that a SB front end would not be able to provide. 2) i like the idea of the mid mount engine. how is that going (slow but sure by the looks of the thread) and when will you be able to road test it. based on what i see here, there are quite a few of us waiting to see what you come up with. waiting for more pics as time affords. |
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2) No progress has been made on it for the past many months, I've moved, and the garage that the project now resides in was crammed full from the move. Now it's getting more organized, and I've got power to it, so I expect to start moving on it again in the next couple of weeks. That being said, there is never a ETA on this sort of project, as one thing always leads to another, but I do hope to have the engine running in the next 3 months, with slow trials after that. I have to make sure that the motor cools properly first, then that things aren't falling apart, then that the whole thing is safe(relative here, this is an old VW!), then the speeds come up, then the packaging starts(windows back in, NACA ducts), make sure cooling is still good, then handling(spring rate, shock adjustment, swaybar adjustment and aerodynamics at high speed), then look at durability(CV joints, tranny), then make it look pretty, then, then, then. This is a lifetime project for me, I've owned this car since I was 15, I'm 34 now, and I expect to be working on it in some form or another pretty much for the rest of my life, so I don't really get too rushed! Next pics will be of brake system, cooling system, and fuel system complete, I'll post 'em as I get 'em! Jason |
Finally back on the engine, just finished the brakes Monday, so cooling and fuel are next. Should have a new wiring harness for the 034 EFI built by Christian Miller done in a couple weeks, then we'll see if she starts up. Progress reports will be coming in more often than half-year intervals now!
Jason |
"if" she starts?!?
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Wow, not too much support from the "southern" crowd!!!! She'll start, one way or another. I guess the map that is set up in the IIc will get me going then I'll get it down to 034s shop and let them loose on the dyno. I'm itchin' to get back home now, I've got the fire back in me again, and its not from the SoCal mexican food! Jason |
I think he meant "If? she starts.. more like WHEN it starts!"
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You're right Scott. I forgot how "sensitive" Dent can be...:laugh: :p
I predict it fires at the first bump! Jason has great eye for following up the details and those 034 guys have a really strong rep... perfect combo for a worry free initial start. Jeff- |
What is the common way to hook up the thermoswitch for the radiator fans? I'm thinking at the inlet of the engine, so regardless, the fans are operating to keep the entering water at the right temp. I'll be able to set the fan start temp for whatever I want, so that's not really an issue.
Pretty much done with the fuel system now. Just need to get a couple of things cleaned up and then wiring for the fuel pump. I need to pull the motor again, I found out I'm missing a couple of bits that hold the throwout arm in place, not so good, so I'll get the motor yanked and hopefully that will be the last time till I take it apart for the final clean up and beautifying!!! Yes, AFTER it IS running!!!;) Jason |
Hi
Does your ECU have a fan control wire. If not I used a probe from http://www.daviescraig.com.au on my top radiator hose. If you go for an adjustable probe like I did, don't set the temperature too low. Steve |
Yep, the 034 ECU has a variable temp trigger. I'm looking online for a VDO ****pit style Temp guage too, I suppose I need to actually see it in front of me as I'm driving!
Jason |
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On the Eco, the switch was just prior the t-stat. What is the factory location? One caution, up high is good but not so high that if it ran a little low of coolant, you wouldnt know it was cooking. I went through a whole air pocket headache with mine in the factory spot because it was impossible to get bled past the t-stat. If you havent already, look into the variable fan controllers. They usually include sender and ey'ting you need. What I thought was the shizz is the soft start and faster as you need it function. I never got around to upgrading to one. When my fans kicked on, it put a serious hurt on the electrics and made the Eco skip a beat. The soft start takes care of that. Keep plugging away! I have to live vicariously through your project for the time being. Jeff- |
Have a look at factory fan switch positions, they are mostly half way down the radiator. If you have it in the top hose you run the risk of it coming on as soon as the engine is up to temperature, not when you need the extra cooling from the fans. IMO having the switch lower down, this temp will start to rise when the engine is running out of cool coolant which is when you want the fans on for the extra cooling...
Rich |
I'm having 034 build a harness for me, I think it actually uses the stock H2O temp sensor so that is taken care of, and then I can just set what temp I want it to come on at.
Pulled the motor and tranny out for the last time. Wanted to make sure everything inside the clutch was buttoned up OK, found that I had forgotten to tighten the bolts on the driver side CV!!! Double checking is a good idea apparently.... Welded up the gaping holes where I cut the frame horns off at the torsion tube. Engine back in then wait till new harness and throttle cable arrive from 034... Jason |
Ordered this sucker today:
Hargett Precision Throttle Pedal I think it is an excellent product for the money. I was planning on just building one myself, but at the rate I've been going I figured I better not mess around!!! I think I'll be building the actual pedal surface myself though, so it's exactly what I want. Check out the shifters they have too, pretty gorgeous. Just need to figure out how to connect this with the stock VW 1.8t throttle cable now, some sort of extension I guess... Jason |
Is the 1.8 throttle push or pull? Can you run morse all the way with an adapter right at the throttle body?
I had to build a swing lever to convert mine from push to pull (buses are already that way but I had to reconfig most of it) and spent some time figuring out the geometry to get wot. Are you sure you dont want to try DBW? Somebody needs to be a test case and tell me how hard it is.:devil: Jeff- |
It's pull, I think it will be fairly easy and adjustable, but of course it's easy to say now!!!
DBW huh, sounds great!!!;) I gave that up so long ago, nobody makes big power using DBW it seems, plus its just another detail to keep me from getting done!!! I still have the pedal and throttle body if I feel like torturing myself though... Jason |
Ok, you got me. What is the prob with the drive by wire setup? Is it the delay? or the size of the TB? Why no big power?
I guess I just figured with it getting so common now, they would have kits developed for even doofuses like me. DBW for dummies. Jeff- |
Dent,
Let us know how this works out. I'm sick of dicking around with the stock pedal trying to get WOT. Will you be using the stock brake/clutch pedal with this setup ? Won't the original setup be 'in the way' of the new pedal ? Panel, Do you have any pics of the lever you created to increase the travel of the cable ? Thanks, Rob. Quote:
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Well, it didn't actually work out so well. It turns out the quality control on the pedal's manufacturer has slipped way out of control. The breaks were not perpendicular, the hole tolerances were way off, there was 3/8ths of lateral slop at the pedal top. I emailed Mark Hargett and he agreed, so I'll be returning it. I think he designed it, but then has someone manufacture it for him. Sounds like he's going to be addressing the problems pronto., so it should be a good product again in the future. I'm going to return it, but not before I get all the dimensions down, modify it, and build one myself that works for the bug application. If I want then, I can buy his pedal covers, they do look pretty sweet. I'll copy that design if someone is interested.
Rob, if you go to the brake section, the thread "Let there be brakes", you'll see the pedal cluster I'm using. Jason |
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Jason |
Waiting on a custom wiring harness now from 034. He has all the info and apparently it's just a couple days from being done. Looking back it seems like I've been waiting for wiring harnesses for half of this build!!!
Got the shifter cables back in and the brackets aligned better. Hard to believe I first hooked up the cables 3+ years ago!!! Anyway, making the brackets strong, they were just tacked up before to make sure it would actually work, and partially removable, to remove the engine the bracket needs to be partially removed. I'm off for 5 days after tomorrow, so I hope to get the fuel system purged and the wiring done, that is if the harness turns up... fingers crossed! Jason |
Both projects I've done that were EFI and needed custom harnesses, the harness took forever. Luckily there was always something that needed to be done in the meantime.
Keep after it!:D Jeff- |
They did a pretty nice job on the harness, all is covered with anti-chaffe sleeve, all the ends are OEM VW H20, except the O2 sensor, which I though was kind of weird that I have to cut and splice that on myself... It's all in now, have a bit more wiring, but...
I cranked it over a few times!!! So, that means my starter works, my bug ignition switch still works, and nothing is seized! I didn't expect anything to be seized, but it's always nice to be sure... The oil has been added to the tranny, the tranny linkage is all finished and works pretty good, don't remember where reverse is... Battery is in and hooked up, 4 ga wiring is done back to starter and alternator and to another fuse block that is related to all ancillaries. Left to do before starting is a fuel system flush and fill up the tank, 2 more brackets for the radiator, fill cooling system, attach rad fans and add power, plug for second O2 bung, get and connect 2.5" silicon hose from IC to intake, finish pedal end throttle cable mount. Pretty short list compared to the years I've been working on this thing!!! That will get her running, then the list starts up again.... Jason |
The throttle pedal is finally done. I wound up using a stock MkII golf/jetta cable housing, but to get the length I need, used mountainbike cable housing and some cable I found that looks identical to the stock golf cable. What was cool is that the little ends that fit onto the mountainbike housing actually fit into the golf cable, so I have a flawless joint. Worked out really well. Pics to come.
Jason |
Awesome!
Any idea how long before you get to fire it for the first time? Oughtta be a podcast moment! Get us some live broadcast set up! :D :cool: Jeff- |
Well, all is done, but the car don't run!!! I'm not sure about getting all the coolant in, I filled the entire line from and to the engine, then I filled the expansion tank, but I'm worried I don't have anything in the engine to get it primed, and what is weird is that the expansion tank filling is not filling the system.
What was more frustrating was that the ECU is not working!!! I plugged in the custom harness, which just left a few wires for me to tackle. Those were the main power and ground, (duh), and the power for the rad fans(work fine with direct connection) and the power for the fuel pump(again works fine with direct connection) so I'm thinking there is a problem with the harness somewhere, or the ECU, either way not to easy to diagnose and really annoying consider how much I've spent so far. I have the radiator in now pretty much finally, and I used foam to seal around it so any air entering the area is forced through rad, can't get around it. Getting the fenders on after the dissappointment about not starting, and working on the front chin spoiler to make sure any air heading under the car is forced around it or through the radiator. Hopefully it is something simple on the wiring, otherwise I'll be taking a trip down to Fremont with it to have it gone through. Jason |
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OK you need to check for spark at the plugs, if no spark check for pulse at the coil and also check for pulse at the injectors. If you have spark, give it a drink of fuel down the manifold to see if it gets a result. Can you hear the fuel pump priming? Most ECUs earth the fans to make them work. As far as bleeding goes, is your header tank the highest point? On WBX I drilled a very, very tiny hole in the thermostat to allow the coolant to flow to both side of the thermostat, some thermostats have a ball check valve for this purpose. I was able to fill my WBX from my header tank and any air in the system would bleed to the top the header tank, then the overflow system would rid it of any air after few warm ups and cool downs. Steve |
Similar prob the first fire on the Eco. There were two plugs out of the dozen that were the same, of course I crossed them. No damage and as soon as I figured it out, it fired on the first hit. Is prolly something very simple.
You've come a looong way! Don't get discouraged by this little hiccup. I aslo struggled with getting my cooling purged and had to do just as Steve suggests to finally get it resolved. Keep at it! Jeff- |
EEEEEeets Aliiiiiiiive!!!! Started her up today!!! I was so happy!!! Its been at least 5 years, and to hear this thing start up was just amazing. I actually recorded the second start, the first, which was more dramatic, I was on the phone with the tech from 034 Motorsport, and only had two hands. I went for a very short little cruise down the street, it's dark and there's no headlights, and found that there was this crazy metal on metal grinding sound from the front end. Turns out it was the inner edge of the brake rotor rubbing on the lower edge of the cup for the lower ball joint. I brought it back and ground some off of the cup, the offending area is not really a stressed area. I heard it again on the second trip, so there's a little more to do.
Big thing is that I can't find reverse!!! I'll have to pull the linkage and go through by hand to find reverse. I know I could find it before, but not with the linkage attached. Eeeets Alive!!! I've got the radiator fans set to come on at 90 deg. The manual says 92-100 I think, for the first stage, and hotter for the second, but I've only got one stage. I can add a secondary thermostat later to fine tune. Does 90 deg sound like a good temp for the water coming out of the head, or should I let it get warmer before the fan comes on? I also found I had really done a dummy move. Way back I had placed a black plastic plug in the end of the coolant line coming from the expansion tank so stuff wouldn't get in there. So now I'm adding water to the tank, and it's not going anywhere. I'm adding water through the main coolant lines, but nothing is happening in the expansion tank, where you are supposed to add water. Finally, I pull the hose from the tank, and NOTHING is coming out!!! I figure I have a bad tank, pull the tank, then pull the hose off the tank. Out flows the water!!! I look, and in the end of the hose is my little plug!!! Well, now that makes sense. Hooked it back up, filled her up, no troubles now. All lines get warm, output one gets hot. Radiator gets warm, fans are working just fine. I'm curious to see how she runs on the freeway without the front lip spoiler. Now it's getting more fun!!!! Jason |
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after all the updates.... seeing it start up in that vid makes all the waiting worth while!!!:driving:
Cant wait to see it finished and in person someday!!! SCHWEEET PROJECT MAN!!!! |
That's awesome news, really happy for you! Always a relief when they fire up for the first time..
Rich |
FREAKIN' AWESOME!!
More video! Rev it, get some drive bys. What turned out to be the glitch on getting it fired the first go round? SUHWEEET! Jeff- |
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