As requested.

Projector in bowl without shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9.jpg~original


Back of projector / bowl

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original


Comparison to stock H4 bulb

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original


~ 40mm to back of bulb from mounting tab where stock H4 sits. The connector is not much thicker ... so 45mm should have you covered.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4.jpg~original


Projector / Bosch bowl / shroud

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original

Sandeep

Very simple indeed! Thanks for the pics! However, I think an auto leveling system won´t be easy to adapt.Maybe retrofit themselves have a solution.i have found all the components needed for it as a kit from Hella,but adapting the stepper motor won´t be easy since there aren´t any fix points or much room for the bulb to move.That´s what I miss about the states.It´s just so easy - install something and be done with it,no need to have mods go through a tech inspection..

It seems that the bulb manufacturers recognise the need for powerful lighting as Philips are marketting a +100% H4 bulb as a simple direct replacement that would give an equivalent 120/110W headlight. The nearest to that would be the 130/90W (not for road use) competition bulb. Wire the lamps for mains and dip to come on when mains is selected and you can retain your original wire sizes and you could have an equivalent 460W halogen light whilst keeping everything stock and legal - cost about £25. Besides the extra lumens the beam pattern is the most important factor that can utilise all of the light output and good quality lenses/relectors are vital.

Most of the HID projector lights I have driven with give too sharp a cut off so that on dip beam it is either night or day and the visual focus suddenly changes between mains and dip so that IMO it affects proper car control (try riding a bike with your eyes focused on the road about 5 yards ahead to see what I mean). What is needed is a little bleed at the edges so that the focus remains further up the road and the old fashioned external lens lamps create that.

Clive

Quit fooling with lighting or other ancillaries and get the car together! ;-)
Engine assembled yet?

Hi

Phillips have many better bulbs that can be used and still keep the standard wiring etc. http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v...2_1&id=1053472

Steve

Steve,

Using your link, these are the ones I was thinking of: http://www.lighting.philips.com.au/v...p=car_&vp=more light&va=more light

Clive

Hi Clive

I have something similar in my daily 1303, they are very good and white, and only need standard wiring.

I might also look into getting my low beams to stay on when on high beam, doing this manually with the dipper switch gives a very good light pattern.

Steve

Getting there ! :lmao: A little bit more welding to do and I can start on assembling the engine.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original

Drivers side heater channel fitted, just need to weld it in now. the passengers side should go faster, drivers side came out in 3 rusty peices.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original

G50 and shifter fitted, 100mm drive flanges fitted, shifts amazingly smooth.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original

7" Touch screen fitted.

The body hasn't been on the pan in 4 years so my motivation is back after seeing these two together again :D

Sandeep

Don't sound so amazed! :lmao: (told you so ;))

Nice work on the sills!; it looks to have been necessary and also looks like you have the same rust problems over there as we have..

The touch screen is freaking amazing! I am not much into gimmicks, but that is VERY cool!
What do you plan on displaying all?

Unfortunately, we have lots of salt on our roads in the winter as well. This car was my first car so I cant get rid of it that easily.

The touch screen can read 30 parameters from the DTA S60 / Innovate instruments that I have and programming the details is straight forward (for me) ;D I've just got to group the similar data together in virtual gauges with each gauge blinking red when a threshhold value has been reached.

If none of the gauges are red, nothing to worry about, but if something turns red, it will catch my eye while driving.

The only other real gauges I will have are a tach and my AEM Tru boost boost controller.

Even the fuel gauge is displayed through the touch screen in %age of fuel remaining :cool:

Sandeep

Awesome! Can't wait to see the final product of your efforts!

Very cool stuff. Touch screen display will be sweet.

Do you have a plan on how you are going to do that left brake master cylinder pushrod? Looks like it will get sandwiched in with the body gasket...

I looked at this years ago and everyone told me I was mad it was not necessary and it was completely OTT...

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...6.jpg~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...k.gif~original

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...2.jpg~original

Its still on the back burner - my dad had it in his Passat GL5 for a bit

NICE Sandeep!! I love Gadgets like that! I had basically the same idea but I gave it up.The reasons for me were: during the day when the sun hits the display,you can hardly read anything.In that regard I am a bit spoiled because the screens that aircraft use (at least Airbus) illuminate automatically brighter when the sun hits it, so you can see all the data on the screen.At night a normal screen is quite distracting (to me) because it´s usally a little too bright and if there is movement on the screen away from your immediate view of sight, I tend to always look over to it.Still,I love to see stuff like that and all the tech involved! Looking better everyday Sandeep!

Modern screens are daylight visible and self adjusting to ambient lighting or you can use time of day to change the gamma settings. Things have come a long way since I was looking at this even a few years back. With solid state drives also now becoming affordable and screen technology having advanced its much easier. You could even slap a small tablet PC into the dash and take it away with you. That would run all the tuning software and anythign else you wanted it to do

Yeah that would be cool,although space is pretty limited on a bug dash.There is a lot of really cool stuff nowadays,though.I really like to see what these freaks are doing.

These freaks are dragging you lot kicking and screaming into the 21st century! :p

Thanks Guys.

2 heads are better than one :o Thanks for that, didn't even see the issue. I will fab something up to take care of it.


Right On !! :lmao:

Al ... that is a nicely done installation. I'll be using a pico ITX box with an AVR microcontroller intercepting the data feed from the DTA S60 Pro, and then passing on to the ITX box that runs the software to make my touchscreen look pretty. I want to incorporate a GPS feed because of all of the driving I will (eventually) be doing.

The smaller the interface box the better, because the car does not really have an interior (2 seats, steering wheel and shifter :eek:)

Sandeep

Good point Mark. Perhaps I'll write some code to flash a small LED in the tach or somewhere on the dash to indicate if any of the gauge data is reading high. That way, I can have a quick look at the screen and see what the #$%% is causing the issue :cool:

Sandeep

If you can program that, you could also program a light sensitive sensor that dims when it's dark or when sun light hits it, it brightens.It makes life much easier if you have a "glass ****pit" i.e. a display unit for all your engine data etc.

The touchscreen does that automatically, light sensitive screen that reacts to the ambient light around it.

Working towards having this pig on the road for 2012 :yes:

Sandeep

Wrong animal Sandeep, but I won't mind this time ;-)

Sandeep - happy to have a chat off this board on any ideas/help or just to chew the fat....

You can PM me and we'll exchange emails. Pico is the way to go - I'll be updating my board at some point in the future I think SSDs are the way forward.

Time to update this thread after about 15 months away from the project :(

I've started building up the 2413cc T4 Turbo (80mm x 98mm) and have it completed to the shortblock.

80mm Raby / DPR ion nitrated crank
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original


Crank assembly completed with Magnum straight cut gear and Scat 5.325" H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original


Crank assembly installed in case, along with cam assembly clearanced for TP DS billet pump. Green lube is Joe Gibbs Driven assembly grease
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original


Case halves prepped with Curil K2 and ready to close up
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...6.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...7.jpg~original


Shortblock together with ARP throughbolts and starting to add some external bits. Curil T under all case washers and through bolts to prevent oil leakage :D
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original


10mmx1.0 to -3AN adapter for turbo feed line in place of oil pressure sender. I will add a new oil pressure sender somewhere else in the system, possibly in the oil cooler block off plate somewhere, to clean up the exposed wiring around the engine. The oil cooler block off has had a new oil path drilled in to it to permit passage of oil.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original


Block as it sits right now
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...8.jpg~original

Great to see progress here!
Tnx for the pics.

Clutch solution based on pinched ideas from other members on this board (Wally) and the internet :o

VW type 4 automatic flex plate with original flex plate rivets drilled out to reveal this finely machined factory peice (right). Pre-86 Chevy V8 button flywheel made by Tilton (left)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...6.jpg~original


Some fine machining / TIG welding by Robert Gross to mate these two peices. They were pressed together with 10 tons of force with an interference fit before welding. Lets hope this assembly holds together :shocked:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original


Rebuilt Tilton 7.25" dual disc clutch with 620 ft/lbs of clamping pressure (Ebay Nascar find) along with Porsche G50 ring gear
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4.jpg~original


Now need to machine this peice out of aluminim to connect the ring gear to the flywheel assembly
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r.jpg~original


Final unit should look like this once completed
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...l.jpg~original


More updates as they happen ... need to keep the momentumn as the goal is to be ready for the Berlin Klassik in September :D

Looking great Sandeep! I really like your idea on the flywheel and clutch set up!

Thanks Wally ... hope you don't mind the pinched clutch idea .. or the pinched G50 installation :p

Sandeep

Thanks Mark ... but I can't take credit for this one as the information was already out there on the 'net. The cool thing about this flywheel setup is that it cost me ~ 100$ not including the welding.

The issue right now will be the final weight once completed as the whole assembly including clutch and discs should come in at about 8.5 lbs. It may be a biotch to drive in traffic, but that is not the goal of the project :D

Sandeep

Definetly can't beat that price! Good score!

No worries there at all Sandeep: I used your turbo location idea in return ;)

Oh la la!

What pistons cylinders are you using?

Looking for a large set of plugs/jugs. Suggestions for 102/103's?

Using LN Engineering V2 Nickies (98mm) with JE pistons. Hoping to put some serious boost in to them (> 20 psi)

Depends on what the goal is for the motor ... you can go LN Engineering or common 103mm jugs.

Sandeep

Some minor updates .....

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...9.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...8.jpg~original

Stainless steel hidden crank trigger using Hall sensor from http://thedubshop.net/. This setup is really clean, thanks to Mario for working with me to produce an awesome product ..... just waiting for a dry sump pulley and the long block can be considered together. Next have to work on the valve train geometry and then figure out the spark plug wire routing for the twin plug set up.

Getting there ..... but its 35c where I live so that means BBQ's and beer will be taking up most of my time :D

Sandeep

Nice.

I'll have to check their website.

Nice kit, keep the momentum rolling!!!

Jason

Very nice trigger setup.

Top notch parts guys, that is awesome work!

Well, things took another turn on the weekend and it looks like my beetle project is officially dead (again) and the final nail has been put in the coffin.

Its been a long time coming and I just don't have the time. I gave it a good shot but the enthusiasm is not there to put this car back together fully. I'll be putting it up for sale, mostly as a project that needs to be put together.

Sad to come to this realization, but relief that a final decision has actually been made.

Sandeep