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Wally April 21st 2010 12:59

Hey Sandeep,

I would (and have) just get a Bosch 044 pump and be done with it. Less noise too, just ask Humble as he runs one too. It supports more than 500 hp ;)
That pump also has a 12mm (1/2 inch) inlet size, so now you also know what the feed line internal diameter has to be.
High pressure line can be 8mm. What this means in AN size, I dunno, but you will probably figure it out :)
I would get a high pressure filter and mount it on the pressure side with 8mm fittings, like porsche does also.

Walter

owdlvr April 21st 2010 13:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 75497)
Hey Sandeep,

I would (and have) just get a Bosch 044 pump and be done with it.

x2 on the Bosch 044.

Quote:

That pump also has a 12mm (1/2 inch) inlet size, so now you also know what the feed line internal diameter has to be.
High pressure line can be 8mm. What this means in AN size, I dunno, but you will probably figure it out :)
I would get a high pressure filter and mount it on the pressure side with 8mm fittings, like porsche does also.

Walter
-6 is the closest AN size to 8mm (it's technically 3/8", which is roughly 9.5mm). I would run -6 line and not worry about it. Russell makes an aluminum fuel line that can be combined with their aluminum fuel line adapters for the easiest line-to-AN combo. No flaring tool is required. Part number 639480 for the natural finish line (also available in black, red and blue) and 639210 for an example of the fitting end (also available in swivel end as well as black/silver instead of red/blue).

034Motorsports has tested the 044 and found it does 265Lt/Hr @ 55lbs and 255Lt/Hr @ 75lbs.

Inlet is 18x1.5mm, outlet is M12.

-Dave

Humble April 21st 2010 14:17

I've got the 044 bosch pump on the race car @ 50psi on 750cc injectors and it's both quiet and capable. I've got a -8 feed line from the tank to the pump, -6 high pressure out to a filter, then -6 to the motor. I'm also running a -6 return back to the tank to make things easy.

You could probably get away with using -8 from tank to swirl pot, -8 from swirl pot to pump, and then -6 for the rest of the system like I did with out issue. It's only when you get into truly ridiculous hp numbers and 1000cc injectors that you will need anything more than a -6 feed line.

petevw April 21st 2010 16:28

I agree. Use the Bosch pump and plumb it -6AN. I believe the pump is also from a CIS MK1 VW Rabbit. I ran one with the EFI’D 2332. Maintained pressure well. I didn’t have a swirl tank, didn’t know any better back 10yrs ago. I ran my return line to a “tee” fitting just before the pump inlet. So it would cavitate once in a while. Mine was noisy because it was solid mounted to the pan. I think the CB EFI pump is that same Bosch unit as well, but they wrap it in a thick rubber sleeve.

Remember, get some 2ear clamps:
http://www.compressedaironline.co.uk...g/OCLIPBIG.jpg

Or plumb it all with AN fittings. Performance Improvements has all the AN stuff on sale this week.

Pete

Sandeep April 21st 2010 18:08

Thanks for all of the feedback. Looks like a 044 is in my plans now along with some AN hardware.

More pics when the fuel system has been completed.

Sandeep

70Turbobug April 22nd 2010 04:32

Quote:

What size do you suggest, based on my system ? Looking to support 500hp.
I would run an -6 AN fuel pressure line and -8AN from the tank to the swirlpot and to the pump,as mentioned above.You will need more pressure and volume than what you have now.If you run 3 bar of fuel pressure and 1.5bar of boost,you will need 4.5 bar minimum fuel pressure at the flow rate your injectors will be flowing. A good fuel pump that is also very reasonable is the walbro 392,and it is E85 compatitable. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-pumps/?itemid=12

Wally April 22nd 2010 06:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70Turbobug (Post 75525)
A good fuel pump that is also very reasonable is the walbro 392,..

The disadvantage of Wallbro's is they seem to fail sometimes and are more noisy.
That was my reason to look for a 044 (which also seem to flow a tad bit more at higher pressure gradients).
But the Wallbro costs less... (and now you know why)

70Turbobug April 24th 2010 03:15

Ok,that´s the first time I´ve heard anything negative about the walbro.;)

Sandeep May 9th 2010 22:19

Some more updates while I am waiting for the new fuel pump / regulator / filter.

The rear end is complete and on the ground:rockon:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...7.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...5.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...6.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...8.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original

Now to tackle the front beam and rebuild that. Hope to have it as a roller in less than a month :D

Sandeep

effvee May 9th 2010 22:53

[QUOTE=Sandeep;75850]Some more updates while I am waiting for the new fuel pump / regulator / filter.

The rear end is complete and on the ground:rockon:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0.jpg~original

Very nice work. Question, I see a tab attached to the chassis snubber mount, it has made some scratches on your otter CV, what is it for?

Lastly, please keep us updated as to your choice of coil overs and how well they respond.

petevw May 10th 2010 01:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by effvee (Post 75851)
Very nice work. Question, I see a tab attached to the chassis snubber mount, it has made some scratches on your otter CV, what is it for?

Saw that too. Figure it's a pickup/sensor for a speed input for the ECU. Sandeep, you have one on the other side too? Traction control? :eek:

Pete

70Turbobug May 10th 2010 04:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by petevw (Post 75853)
Saw that too. Figure it's a pickup/sensor for a speed input for the ECU. Sandeep, you have one on the other side too? Traction control? :eek:

Pete

That could be for the pick up sensor for ABS brakes I would guess,but ABS is also very hard to implement correctly i.e. mapping parameters in which it should operate.Much harder than motormanagement.Traction control would be very cool,but it is also hard to implement.

Sandeep May 10th 2010 09:44

I have placed that tab on the other side too, and they are both for VR sensors.

The sensors pick up the heads of the cv bolts and pulse 6 times for every revolution of the wheel, so I know how fast the wheel is turning. I am programming an AVR microcontroller to interface to the S60Pro ECU and feed the data from the ECU, into innovate motorsports Logworks 3 data logging software. I have a bunch of other innovate stuff as well, so I am incorporating all of the data into a nice 7" TFT touch display on my dash :eekno:

I can then log both rear wheel speeds, and compare that to the front wheel speed to see how much wheel spin I have when driving.

This will tell me if I need an LSD or not :D

BTW, the S60Pro has a traction control setting that uses the undriven wheel speed, gear setting and engine RPM to determine wheel slip and retards the ignition to keep traction :D

Lanner is machining my front hubs to use the 944 antilock rings that come stock on the hubs so I can play around with this feature.

Sandeep

Wally May 10th 2010 09:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandeep (Post 75861)
I have placed that tab on the other side too, and they are both for VR sensors.

The sensors pick up the heads of the cv bolts and pulse 6 times for every revolution of the wheel, so I know how fast the wheel is turning. I am programming an AVR microcontroller to interface to the S60Pro ECU and feed the data from the ECU, into innovate motorsports Logworks 3 data logging software.

Interested if you can make that work. Not sure what I am doing wrong, but still don't even see LUWS (left undriven wheel speed) and it's not the right hand wheel thats got the sensor :lmao:

Quote:

BTW, the S60Pro has a traction control setting that uses the undriven wheel speed, gear setting and engine RPM to determine wheel slip and retards the ignition to keep traction :D

Yeah, it even lets you have a set max percentage wheel slip before it messes with timing.
Pretty cool all, but not sure if it works like that IRL if you have 400 RWHP on the dragstrip with street tires...
:rolleyes:

Sandeep May 26th 2010 19:22

One more step closer to having a running engine this year :D

The 98mm JE's from LNE showed up along with the tool steel pins / rings and spiral locks :cool:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...2.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...3.jpg~original

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4.jpg~original

Sandeep


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