Wicked, great work Wally you should be closer to Canada........

LOVE IT.... I'm with daddy
if you want a bigger one then you should put a Coil and a Spark plug in the tailpipe and hook it up you would get a HUGE flame lol

Chris.

Love all your reactions!

Found a vid of a very fast dutch street-legal dragracer with an Opel Speedster, which I ran 'against' earlier this year. He runs with slicks in unlimited class. I am in a A/Street/Legal which require road legal threaded tires.

In the run of this vid got a little too much smoke from the burn-out....opened the roof, but 'your not allowed to run with open roof'... I know dude, but can't you see the smoke thats blinding me? Maybe thats not safe to run with either huh? :lmao:
He had to laugh about it then as well fortunately ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uXUP...eature=channel

nice
im sure u said some where already. but what tires are u running they seem to hook up well

Wally, excuse me for asking, but do you by any chance, have a spare trigger wheel like the one that you are using? Or maybe can have one more of those made? I'll pay for it :D
Oh, and nice vids, btw!

Its a semi-slick street/trackday tire in 245/35/18 size: Bridgestone SP Super Sport race, threadwear 60 (!), I really like them but they don't make those anymore.

Xellex: sorry, can't help you there..

Something to handle the upgraded power a bit better (I hope) through the corners: 944 M030 25.5mm torsion bars:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...3.jpg~original

Wally, nice job! :)

I hope those 25.5s will be OK, because I also bought them for my project. I guess, I'm waiting for the update about how they changed Your Bug, meaning driving feeling!

Regarding Your performance, those numbers looks serious. I believe most of us trust Your opinion on turbocharged Type 4 engine subject (I do, because I don't know anybody else who made engine "from schratch" with totaly simple parts, plus modern tehnology like FI and Turbo to get serious numbers). I'm wondering only one thing:

Considering Your today's knowledge, experience and abilities, how much Your engine costs? Roughly. Is it 3000 euros, 5000 euros, or what? I really trust You on this one, because I was thinking about STI (sorry people) because it costs me 2500 euros, has 300 HP and 350+ Nm.

Thank You!

Best regards from chap who said hello on Spa Franchorchamps at Le bug show :)

2500 euros won´t get you far on an aircooled motor.Depending on what you can do yourself and how good your existing parts are and if you have a complete motor,you may be able to build a longblock without the fan assembly and throttlebodies for that.Fan and throttlebodies can cost up to 1600 Euros alone, a proper engine Management like DTA or KMS will run you another 1000 euros without the wire bundle.Megasquirt is another option and will be a bit cheaper.Proper headwork is pricey if you don´t have the means to do it yourself.Then you have the turbo,wastegate,bov,intercooler,hoses,fittings,etc .it adds up quickly...

This is the reason why I'm asking Wally to elaborate his engine. Because of price, I'm on the STI side, even if it is not old school. But Wally has some interesting cheap solutions that work well...;)

Sorry mate, I may have used stock crank, rods, case, heads as a base, but there are no 'cheap' solutions to 350 hp aircooled and making it last on a track.
Just drag race, that would be much more easy and hence less expensive.
If you want to basterdize your car by using a japanese watercooled engine, be my guest. I am sure it will be much less expensive. If you think that is worth it, go right ahead.
My fun is to make an aircooled car fast and last. using a watercooled engine to make it fast is soooo easy, its no fun and no surprise for anybody..
To each his own I guess :rolleyes:
It was (and will be) nice to have met you anyways ;) Its all about FUN, nothing else you know :)

Basterdise is a tough word. People from vintage scene think that making german lookers is also basterdizing. We all think it's not like that, right?

Subaru STI is a very similar engine to VW AC. They even work with Porsche on development of new parts/engines. But, ofcourse, it's not that cool as aircooled engine. We all know that.

My point: the only thing that somebody can basterdize on their Bug is badly engineer it. Good engineering is good engineering. No matter is it aircooled or else.

I really admire Your car. I didn't said it's made of cheap parts. I just compare it with Remmele, MassIVe Type4 and that kind of stuff. Looking at their performance/price ratio, Your engine is - cheap. In no offensive meaning, sorry if You took that wrong...

This is why I ask how much Your engine costs with your knowledge and skills.

Yes, I know mate; I just feel it a shame to put a watercooled engine in it for all the simple reasons I just mentioned. I'd rather run a nice solid type 1 than a jap watercooler.
But thats entirely my take on what I like. No offense and thanks for the kind words on my engine.
Make no mistake though, its not cheap at all, but mainly because I 'overdo' things internally.
There IS a reason it runs so cool and stays in one piece, but maybe it wasn't neccesary what I have all done. I probably overdid some parts, which made it more expensive than nessesary. I dunno, but I have little room for constant failures to find out if...

Thanks,
Walter

Edit: to (not) answer your question anbout costs: I am sure you can (and probably have) add up parts cost for a n/a type 4 in a bug. Even doing that you must have noticed that even a tuned type 1 is not much less expensive (you can hardly use the word 'cheap' with these hobbies) when done right than a second hand suby engine.
Not much point trying to compare that. Even then, you still will have spend a very decent sum of money and a **** load of work after your suby engine fits, runs and cools well and you still have a jap watercooled engine in your bug after all that... I dunno, it just doesn't ever seem justified im(h)o. But hey, since you asked me ;-)
But in all honesty, you did not really think I went to the trouble to keep account of all costs over all these years of executing my hobby did you?

Wally is absolutely right! The subaru engine is a good engine no doubt.However,why are they so cheap? Usually they have around 200.000Km on them with unknown history.Then,people slap on a turbo and if they are lucky it will last a couple of years.But it´s still a 200TKM engine that can break any second as any other engine can.Rebuilding a subaru isn´t cheap either and will run you about the same price as a type 4 if not more.Jap parts are usually expensive.You can take a stock type 4 refresh/rebuild it and turbocharge it with fairly low budget.So let´s say around 5-6K Euros for everything engine related.for that,even though the engine is basically stock,maybe some light port work and of course stiffer springs you can have fun and be reliable and can make around 250HP that will last,just keep the boost down to a max of 15psi=1 bar.Good tuning and mapping is crucial - that´s why Wally makes the power and reliability he has.If you are looking for the power that Wally has,there´s more to it and it´s the bazillion little things that makes it expensive.Wally also has some exclusive parts like the Oettinger cylinders that have become very rare.

I could only partially agree with You because STI reconditioned engine costs 2500 euros.

Add exhaust and pipes, wires, etc, etc., and You're on 3500.

If I could make reliable 200 HP Type4 for 3500 euros, I'll go for it!

I have good 2.0 T4 engine sitting in the garage and waiting... :rolleyes:

So you can buy all the parts to adapt a STi engine for just 1000? Adapter flywheel, clutch parts, special exhaust, lowered alu sump, radiator, fans, coolent lines, watertank, several cut-off disks to hack up your rear end to position the double cams etc etc? Tell me your source for all these cheap parts :rolleyes:
We could argue all day about costs and if costs are more important than having an aircooled motor in your VW or of the other above considerations I and others have mentioned, then any watercooled 'thing' would usually be less expensive.

So please get your suby engine in there and stop talking about it!
Are we now done about that subject?

I'm in the dark side(that's they call the subaru engine in a beetle) but my opinion is that both sides have several good reasons to support their engine build, but there is no need each of the two sides try to convience the other one.
Wally has spend a good amount of euros in order to keep alive the character of the aircooled engine and some other people like me, they decide to proceed with something alternative but still boxer.

It always has to do with money and personal believes.

..........and dont forget..... we are all VW family and everybody does what he does!

Wally, SMR reconditioned engine costs 1200 euros. Rest is new turbo and injectors, other parts used. That's "new" engine, You'll agree.

My source for cheap Subaru parts is SMR engines in UK, and Subarubreakers. But I agree. No more that subject.

Tell me what I can do with 3500 euros on my Type4. I'm asking You because you've gone far away in this aircooled world. I allready have 915 box, alu arms, front Alcon race discs 305 mm with Brembo 4-pot calipers, and Bilstein's on 25.5 sways rear and standard front beam. Even 4500 euros for the engine is OK if I can keep it old school.

I want fast road car. I don't care about track, because I do that too often in other cars. Fast, reliable grand tourer is what I want to make.

And, above all, thank You for making one of the most impressive Type 4 engines. Now tell me (because there is obvious reason I'm asking You), how would You spend 4500 euros on Type 4 engine and what it could make?

Break the myth with 4500 euros worth of parts...
;)

I agree with Jim, its all about the FUN and always should be ;)

I also hate to talk about costs involded as you may have noticed and that is NOT because I have unlimited budget, far, far from that.
I know people that use 1500 euros and make a 300 hp turbo engine in a bug and I know people that spend 20.000 euros and realize 250 hp...
See what I mean?

So, sorry MX, but I am not gonna write you a prescription how to build an engine and what I think the costs are per item.
I let everybody see what I do and use and even why, but thats it. Sorry...

Now please, no more talk about what it costs, because it is sooo different for each and everyone of us.

Everybody has to find their own method of doing things.It´s the variety of this that makes it interesting and see what others have done.Regardless of budget.Creativity and the results thereof is what it´s about.Some people can build a low budget high HP motor and make it last,others can´t.It´s knowing what you can get a way with and what is needed.This really applies to the aircooled engine.A list of parts and prices is only good use if one has the craftsmanship to make it work.Like I said,you can take a stock type 4,turbocharge it and get 200 reliable HP if you know what you´re doing.Precision tuning/mapping is the key.Wally came to his results due to years of constant evolution and trial and error.

Well said Mark!

Winterjob: adapting boxster front calipers to the rear to get better balance:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...1.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...2.jpg~original

That will be easy for a man with your resources and tallent.

You had 944 turbo calipers before right? What was the "problem" with those?

No, I even had the 993 rear calipers, which even have a little bigger cups than the 944T's.

Problem is brake balance. Been fighting too little rear brake bias for years now. Yes, tried 'everything'. Going back to my original believe that on a bug you can almost have the same calipers front as rear. Fronts are are 996 front.
This measure should solve that 'problem'.

Isn´t the 993 brake caliper the same as the Boxster S? What master cylinder are you using?

No, 993 isn't monoblock/axial mount like the boxster. 993 is earlier than boxster, but fysically about the same size.
I now use 944/n/a master with 23 to the front, 19 rear. Like I said, have tried everything ;)

I´m sure you have :)

Some late incoming (awesome) pics from Julian Hunt (www.julianhunt.net) from the VW Action trip last september:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...1.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...0.jpg~original

Yeah, I did run very low tire pressure to try get into the 11's, which worked great for 60ft times, but mph didn't move much:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...4.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...4.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...2.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...7.jpg~original

Great photo's Wally! :thumbup:

Drag photos!!! I love them!!

Glad you like them!

To fight the X-mas boredom, I thought it would be a good idea to start the engine so the oil could flow back to the dry-sump tank after a 3 month stand-still. Oh, yeah and I had removed the silencer :rolleyes:
"honey, it is really neccessary to start the engine every 3 months or it could get stuck" :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb_wzgslrLw

Great pics Wally! Looks like you´re getting a little air under the front wheels in that last pic?
LOL! Yes - very important!

Love the pic with the crinkled tire on launch! Bad ass! Great pics!

Wally are those 2.7 boxster calipers or boxster S calipers you're running on the rear? What front discs are you using?

im going to try 996 calipers front and rear on mine to see how that works out.

Hi (Rob, was it?),

Those are 986 (2.5 or some early 2.7) front calipers. No Boxster S as Boxster S (987) are actually the same as 996 and have 28mm thick front rotors! I have 24mm rotors in the rear, same as front 986. See? ;)

On the front of my bug I now have 330x28mm and I use 996 front calipers for that. Originally 996 fronts are 318x28, but those calipers work very well on 330 too ;)

Progress: adapters made:
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...9.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...6.jpg~original

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...7.jpg~original

Ah okay, 944T and 987 rear discs are also 24mm thick arent they? (but i beleive the 987 discs are slightly taller)

i am going to be running the 318x28 discs on the front. Did you find much of a difference going over to the 944 mastercylinder from the beetle mastercylinder?

its great learning from others' experiences on here, especially when the cars get used on the track :)

Thanks

Deano

ps did you ever run rear 996 calipers?

Sorry Deano :o
Yes, they are, most all rear disks are 24mm I noticed; The hats are indeed taller/shallower with each model, so you need to check out what will work for you.
Yes, 23mm or 19mm in the front will make a big difference. But even with the 944 master and mounting the lines so that 23mm is to the front brakes (thus lessening the brake power on the front), on MY car, the rear still didn't bite enough. Or in other words: I still leave braking power on the pavement, it can be better if my rears work harder.
Most all rear porsche 4-pot calipers (including the 996 ones) have something like 28/30mm cups in them. For MY car with 245 wide semi-slick tires, that is just too little I found. Even the 993 rears I had had the largest rear cups I could find (30/34) and even that was too small on MY car.
Notice I said MY car, as I am sure others will have different experiences with their cars wih different set-ups ;)

I just hope to have solved the bias with the 36/40 cups in the 986 front calipers...I'll et you know how it turns out next (track-day) season ;)

no worries about the name mix up lol

off the top of my head the 987 discs are 2 mm taller than the 944T discs and are cross drilled. i have a set of both so il see what works with my set up.


as you say thats all for YOUR car. part of the fun with these german look cars is trying new things and finding out what works. i look forward to future updates :)

thanks again

Deano

I´m sure that running those big 18" wheels and a 245 tire requires a much higher clamping pressure than with a 17" wheel and 225 or 235 tire.