Fitting a 5 speed into your bug
I have collected enough info for an article that I have done in PPT but its to large probably to host as a pdf.. but will post some of the high lights in this thread.
Slide 1- 5-Speed Conversion: Installing a Porsche Gearbox into your Type I IRS Chassis Slide 3- Starting Point: In order to install a 5 speed gearbox you must first begin by locating one. For this conversion the following gearboxes are acceptable starting points 901 and 902 (5 Speed) 901/911 and 914 gearbox 915 For this guide we will discuss the 901/902/914 family of gearboxes. The 915 will follow the basic procedure Slide 4- Distinguishing Porsche Gearboxes http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original This is an example of an early 911 gearbox. (used in the 911 from around 1965to 1968) These boxes are referred to as 901 boxes. Identification marks are located on the bottom of the gearbox The 902 boxes are identical to the 901. It was found in early 912, and has the same internals as the 901 but different ratios Slide 5- Distinguishing Porsche Gearboxes (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original Early 901 Transmissions Were made of Aluminum 65 to 68. These boxes had a Push Type Clutch Slide 6 Distinguishing Porsche Gearboxes (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original (Picture from another board member) Late 901 transmissions : Were made of magnesium 69 to 71 1969 continued to utilize the Push Type Clutch 70 to 71 utilized a Pull Type Clutch Slide 7 Distinguishing Porsche Gearboxes (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original 914 Tail Shift Transmission Found in 914 Porsches (pre-1973 914/4 and 914/6) Slide 8 Distinguishing Porsche Gearboxes (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...8.jpg~original 914 Side Shift Transmission Late 914 utilized the side-shift configuration. Look at the similarities in the case to the tail shift. Nose cone and shift rod and fork internals differ The 914 Side Shift transmission can still be utilized for the conversion but will require additional work and components |
Bug@5-Speed Kit Components
Slide 9 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...9.jpg~original Bug@5-Speed “Beetle Shifter” The Shifter can be looked as a short throw shifter, due to the reduction in shifter throw. The base of the shifter provides additional support for the beetle shift rod as well as a bushing for the beetle rod to ride smoothly on. This support eliminates a lot of the issues that some folks may have due the bending their bug shift rods like a Z or are not having the proper alignment. With the supported shift rod, proper alignment from the shifter to the input shaft on the Gearbox is maintained. -Shifter has spring gate to prevent accidental shifting into reverse. Can use with a stock, aftermarket or our shifter ball. Slide 10 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.png~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Bug@5-Speed “Porsche Style or aka Square Shifter” This Shifter is similar to the beetle style but with obvious differences. Shifter comes with a 911 style base to attach to a Porsche tunnel or modified beetle tunnel Additionally comes with bent shift rod, leather boot, and machined shift knob. This shifter can also be looked as a short throw shifter, as the shifter has a throw of less than 60 mm per gear. The Shifter has spring gate to prevent accidental shifting into reverse. Can use with a stock, aftermarket or our shifter ball. Slide 11 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed Front Traverse http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Cast Aluminum, with Hardened Black Mounts Creates mounting point for Nose Cone. Attaches to the based of the IRS mounts via special wedge spacers and M12 sized bolt Slide 12 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed Nose Cone http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original Cast Aluminum, and machine finished. The nose cone allows the transmission to be moved fwd 30 mm thereby giving you more space out back and providing better weight distribution. Slide 13 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed Rear Support 901 Style http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original 914 Style http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original There are two designs due to the shape of the gearbox bell housing shape 901 style is designed to attach to 901 and 915 bell housing which don’t have the flat sections that the 914 ‘s have 914 style is designed to attach to the bell housing via beetle rear transmission mounts Slide 14 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed Clutch Cable adapter plate and Cable Extension Connector http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Adapter Plate is needed due to the lack of an eyelet to secure Bowden Tube and maintain proper alignment Cable Extender attaches to the end of the factory clutch cable enabling quick adjustment by turning knurled bit |
Components (Continue)
Slide 15 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components
Bug@5-Speed also carries Inner Shift Forks for use when converting 914 tail and side shift gearboxes http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original Slide 16 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed also carries Modified 901 and 914 TOB Forks for use when converting 901, 914 tail and side shift gearboxes Modified forks are bent to provide better geometry These can be purchased on an exchange basis Lever is newly galvanized after the modification/adjustment*and equipped with a new guiding socket at the back.* http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original Slide 17 Bug@5-Speed Kit Components Bug@5-Speed Gearbox Output Flanges http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Come in two sized: Stock Beetle diameter (78mm) 944/T2 diameter (86mm) Machined and Hardened Note: early 901 flanges have larger opening and must be specified |
Getting Started (Partial Disassembly)
Slide 19- Getting Started (Partial Disassembly)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...9.jpg~original Drain oil via two plugs on the side of the gearbox (17mm Hex Drive) Lower plug is magnetized to capture filings It is a good idea to inspect this plug to have an initial idea of condition of internals Slide 20 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original Removing Flanges Utilizing 1 inch square stock special tool is made to prevent flange from spinning Bolt on flanges are size 19mm and are referred to as diff expansion bolts Slide 21 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original The differential side cover/plate is secured by 13mm sized nuts Removing of the side cover is necessary in order to flip the differential This is necessary on the 914 gearboxes due to the 914 boxes being set up for mid engine configuration Failing to due this will yield one fwd gear and 5 reverse gears Slide 22 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original Side Cover removed exposing a poorly maintained gearbox This is not what you want to find With cover removed it becomes evident that in order to remove the diff, the pinion shaft and main shaft will have to be removed Slide 23 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original Few more items that need to be removed to enable the intermediate plate, and gear stack to be pulled away from the case to access diff Unbolt 2 13mm nuts to removed side cover plate; freeing inner shift rod Removed reverse gear switch and pin |
Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) (Continue)
Slide 24 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4.jpg~original With the intermediate plate and gear stack out of the way you can now pull the differential from the box Now reinstall with differential Ring Gear facing the opposite way Reinstall all items in reverse Slide 25 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Nosecone is secured to intermediate plate via 13mm nuts. Once nuts are removed utilize a rubber mallet to remove nosecone Take caution when removing the nosecone, as the reverse gear assembly may fall out/off Slide 26 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original With cover removed now is a good time to transfer reverse gear shaft onto your new nosecone Example shown of early 901 nose cone Utilize a small punch and remove small pin Remove reverse shaft and relocate onto Bugat5speed Nosecone Reinsert small pin to secure/lock reverse gear shaft Slide 27 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original Reverse Gear shaft shown on the old nose cone http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Reverse Gear shaft and locking pin |
Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) (Continue)
Slide 28 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...8.jpg~original With Nose Cone removed, now is a good time to remove the speedometer drive gear Two approaches (1) Use a hacksaw and cut (Not best approach) or (2) Remove Expansion bolt (held in place with (80-87ft/lbs) and decouple drive gear (Better approach) Slide 29 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original The Expansion bolt is size 32mm, and will require that you lock the gearbox down in order to utilize an impact drill to remove. There are many methods to locking the gearbox, one such method is to utilize an old clutch disk, using some one inch stock and a few bolts (See side picture) Slide 30 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Once expansion bolt is removed from, you will notice that the speedometer drive gear is secured via a small pin To separate remove lock pin Slide 31 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original The Bug@5-Speed Nose Cone and Front Traverse are shown on the right. With the reverse gear shaft installed and locked in, you can attach nose cone to the intermediate plate and gearbox. Be sure to replace the factory gasket or utilize a liquid gasket to create a good tight seal Secure to gearbox with the self-locking nuts and washer Torque 13mm nuts to 18 ft/lbs (Per Porsche Manual |
Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) (Continue)
Slide 32 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly)
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original The Front Traverse is secured to the nose cone via (4) hex bolts This is what the final nose cone and traverse should look like. Slide 33 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) Bowden Tube/Clutch Cable Adapter Plate Install (914) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3.jpg~original The Adapter Plate is utilized to redirect and establish proper geometry for the clutch cable and Bowden tube Install is accomplished by placing adapter plate onto differential side cover via two 13mm nuts Shown is install on a 914 gearbox Slide 34 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) Bowden Tube/Clutch Cable Adapter Plate Install (901) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4.jpg~original While the 901 early gearbox has an eyelet for the clutch cable, this is not the optimal setup. It is recommended to use the Bug@5-Speed Adapter Plate. The Plate is utilized to establish the proper geometry for the clutch cable and Bowden tube Install is accomplished by placing adapter plate onto differential side cover via two 13mm nuts Removal of the 901 eyelet will be necessary. This can be accomplished by cutting the old eyelet and plugging hole with automotive plug Failure to plug hole will yield hole in side cover Slide 35 Getting Started (Partial Disassembly) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...5.jpg~original In order to attach the cable extender to the 901 or 914 Tob Fork, you need to attach the adapter piece which will serve as a guide for the knurled extension |
Slide 36 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original This is the bell housing side of the gearbox. The rear gearbox support is attached to the bell housing via beetle transmission mounts. It is affixed to the two flat areas on the bell housing Slide 37 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Both variety of transmission mounts can be used with the Bug@5-Speed Traverse To begin the installation process, you must mark where the attachment holes will need to be Slide 38 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...8.jpg~original With the bell housing marked, use a punch and hammer, to mark the pilot holes for the drill bit Slide 39 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original With the 4-holes drilled into the bell housing, the next order of business is to utilize a grinder or dremmel with grinding bit to create a flush mounting surface for the transmission mounts Slide 40 Bug@5-Speed Rear Gearbox Support (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0.jpg~original The last order of business is to attach everything to the bell housing with the manufactured supplied bolts/nuts or grade-8 or better hardware |
Bug@5-Speed Output Flange
Slide 41 Bug@5-Speed Output Flange Install
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original When ordering its important to know if you have the early 901 sized flanges (Large) or 914 flanges (Small) due to the different sized hole in the flange. Bug@5-Speed Flanges are affixed to the differential with the removed washer and expansion bolt (It is recommended that you replace bolts with new ones Tighten to recommended manufacture specification |
Relocating Oil Breather
Slide 42- Relocating Oil Breather
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original When using a 914 box it is necessary to relocate the oil breather tube to the same location as it would be found on a 901 box Bottom picture shows where the new location will be on the 914 box Slide 43- Relocating Oil Breather (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...6.jpg~original Some of the tools you will need to accomplish this task: Oil Breather Thread Pitch gauge Small drill bit for pilot hole Large bit Punch Tap and Handle Note: Remember your safety equipment (eye protection) Slide 44- Relocating Oil Breather (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Use a Punch to mark the new location of oil breather tube Ensure new location of tube clears case internals Slide 45- Relocating Oil Breather (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...5.jpg~original Use a small drill to create pilot hole Use appropriate large drill to open up hole to correct size for tapping Use gauge to verify correct tap size Using cutting oil, and tap with handle cut new threads onto case Slide 46- Relocating Oil Breather (Cont) http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Lastly fit breather into new location. Breather should have approximately 45 degrees offset Plug old hole with automotive plug Oil Plug can be used |
Type I IRS Chassis Prep
Slide 46 Type I IRS Chassis Prep
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Installing the Bug@5-Speed Conversion kit can be done with body on or off. When installing the kit, it will be necessary to remove the old beetle transmission mounts as shown in the top picture A grinder and some eye protection make quick work of the transmission mount bolts This is what chassis should look like after bolts are ground off and surface made flush That's it for today.. Tomorrow the rest of chassis prep Enjoy and comments always welcome. Alex |
Lots of good info here... but let me add a $$$$ tip: Use Loctite on all bolts and nuts on initial thighting! or they wil vibrate loose.
Cant wait to pick up my parts and start the conversion! Going to visit Martin in January. |
Thanks for the reminder.. Very true..
You'll have fun over at Martin's.. |
Slide 49- Type I IRS Chassis Prep
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original With 30+ years of grim and dirt, now is a good time to wire-wheel and clean the bottom of the IRS mounts Also clean the flat section of the frame horns This will help with test fitting the gearbox and when you need to identify areas that need to be clearance Slide 50- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0.jpg~original One of the first areas that you will notice that needs to be marked for clearance is the right hand side of the nosecone/intermediate plate (looking from top of chassis) Slide 51- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original Shown here is the clearance for the reverse gear switch Slide 52- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Shown is the clearance for the Clutch Cable Adapter Plate and for the TOB Fork |
Slide 53- Type I IRS Chassis Prep
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Few more pictures of clearance for Clutch Cable Adaptor Plate Slide 54- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4.jpg~original Once all the clearances have been cut into the frame horns, this is what your chassis should look like. 1-Clearance for the intermediate plate 2-Clearance for shifter cable adapter plate & Bowden tube 3-Clearance for TOB fork 4-Clearance for reverse gear switch (optional) Slide 55- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...5.jpg~original Gearbox is situated between frame horns to begin marking area to be cut for the inner shift-rod that will enter tunnel in the new location Slide 56- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...6.jpg~original Using a wire wheel, area to be cut was cleaned to enable marking of the necessary patter for the shifter coupling to fit through the tunnel: Porsche Shifter Coupling requires hole cut to 60mm x 120m If using a VW Shifter Coupling it requires hole cut to 70mm x 120mm, due to larger size Slide 57- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...7.jpg~original Once the hole is cut this is where the shift rod will enter tunnel. Notice the Porsche Shifter coupling Slide 58- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...8.jpg~original With shifter coupling hole cut, its now time to center our attention onto the front traverse, and the IRS mounts which serve as the mounting point for the gearbox Slide 59- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.png~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original With the gearbox installed with the front and rear traverse, we will mark the location for the bolts to attach to the IRS mounts. |
Excellent write-up Alex! Keep it up!
Jeff |
Thanks..
I will have the rest of the pics and notes up shortly.. Little under the weather these past few days.. passing a cold/flu between son and wife.. But appreciated the comments Alex |
Slide 60- Type I IRS Chassis Prep
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0.jpg~original A center punch and hammer are utilized to mark the location for drilling. Starting with a smaller (approximately 6mm or ¼” bit) make the necessary pilot hole Note: Remember to use cutting oil, and eye protection Slide 61- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~originalhttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Final hole will be made with a M12.5 or M13 Drill bit. The Front traverse will be attached to the IRS mounts using a M12 Bolt (19mm), two washers, and the supplied metal wedges. Slide 62- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2.jpg~original The wedges are provided to create a level surface for the mount to go onto. 4 wedges are included in the kit. Slide 63- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3.jpg~original You will notice the location of the second wedge on the back side of the IRS mount. Using M12 hardware, secure the bolt with a lock not and some thread lock Slide 64- Type I IRS Chassis Prep http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4.jpg~original Picture of what the under side of the chassis should look like. With gearbox partially secured and all the trimming, cutting repositioning and clearance now complete, it is a perfect time to check everything once more. Slide 65 http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...5.jpg~original The Knurled Extension bit is utilized due to the stock cable being to short. Make sure you attach the extension with some grease to ensure smooth operation and adjustment |
Slide 66- Type I IRS Chassis Prep
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...6.jpg~original You will notice with the gearbox installed that the clutch cable tube that exits the rear of the transmission tunnel is not properly aligned to mate with the new adapter plate Maintaining this exit angel will cause the tube to interfere with the gearbox, Bowden tube and the clutch cable. This will need to adjusted/modified. Slide 67- Type I IRS Chassis Prep The clutch guide tube is held in place with a strong weld from the factory Utilizing a metal drill or Dremmel along with a steady hand, break the weld and tube free. A sharp chisel will a great help, too. Using a suitable-sized punch, metal rod or piece of steel bar, you then carefully bend the tube, thereby realigning the exit angle of the cable. A new spot will be needed to retain the tube at this new angle Note: Care must be taken to not damage the tube when removing the factory welds, as any dents or kinks may cause clutch cable interference A trial assembly of the re-routed Bowden Tube (flexible clutch cable conduit) from the back of the chassis is checked on last time. Need to ensure a smooth curve with no tight angles is necessary |
Bug@5-Speed Shifter Install
Slide 68- Bug@5-Speed Shifter Install
Our Shifter Guide goes into more detail, but here are some pics of a partial install. More to come, as some details may not be clear. Such things as modification to Bug and 911 Shifter Rods, Porsche coupler, where to locate your shift rod, and any modications required. Following slides are just to high light some of the install. Slide 69- Bug@5-Speed Shifter Install http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...c.jpg~original Installing of the shifter onto tunnel is relatively simple (1) Remove old beetle shifter (2) Make template of the base of the Bug@5-Speed Shifter, and trace this onto tunnel (3) Using a cut off wheel or similar type tool cut the necessary 50 x 78 mm for the new shift lever into the tunnel (4) Finish off by grinding edges to crate smooth finish Slide 70- Bug@5-Speed Shifter Install http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.jpg~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...b.jpg~original Next, you will need to tap 4 holes onto the tunnel to install the supplied (4) hex bolts Lastly Install shifter as shown in pictures onto the tunnel and secure utilizing the (4) hex bolts Following instruction in shifter guide for adjustment and alternatives modifying the beetle tunnel shifter rod Slide 71- Bug@5-Speed Shifter Install http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...a.png~original http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1.jpg~original Here you see the difference between the factory stock beetle shift rod, and the 911 shift rod option. Lower picture shows where the Porsche coupling would slide into the 911 shift rod. |
Ok, that's it for now..
I was talking to a fellow about another chasis, to avoid replacing my pan head, but I think he fell off the planet. Did start to remove the napolean hat, so if I don't hear from him, I will continue to upload and post pics of the pan head job. Take care and happy holiday's Alex |
A few new updates on this guide.
New pics of the Bugat5speed Inner Shifter rod (Slide 15), Modified TOB Fork (Slide 16), and a few pics to show the difference between 911 and Beetle Shift Rods (Slide 71: The one in the tunnel) VR Alex |
Very very helpfull thread, but don't you have to pre load and shim the diff. and pinion wheel?
|
I am happy to report, that I should be getting my chassis back from Metricautohaus very soon.
I will update thread with more pics once I have her in my hands.. Stay tuned Alex |
Quote:
i have my engine in starting etc etc but cant get the clutch cable to move much as its hitting side of gearbox casing. i have bent the throw out arm slightly with oxy acetylene.... but there doesnt seem to be the right movement of the arm in the case.... it doesnt seem to move right? could you throw up a picture of the way the arm should be installed in the case? and the bits for it? is it easily bent or a bugger??:eekno: cheers oh great gearbox one! :cool::) |
buggyboyshane
Just got back from a trip, give me a day or so, and will update you.. Also PM your email address. Alex |
details for early 901 install.
hey guys, can you show some images that outline your "Early 901" rear support part? In looking at your install images you show the part, but not how it mounts to the trans. that might help me make a decision about purchasing or fabricating... Also can you PM me the cost for this part?
thanks. |
JMD,
Sure, will try to upload tonight.. Alex |
Hi,
This is a great post, and all this time I was wondering why no one had made such a guide... Many Thanks... I do have one question remaining, is it wise to leave the tunnel open so widely where the coupler goes? Why not make a little piece of metal to cover it up a little and protect it from rain, dust, ... ? Sebastien |
Scourtaud,
The width is dependant on the couper you use.. A few members have made some tweaks to add covering to the exit point. I don't recall there specific names, but if you search you will get some nifty ideas. Really boils down to what your fabrication capabilities are.. think of the above method as path of least resistance to getting the capability (gearbox to connect to the shifter), but it has been noted that improvements can be made.. and based on your skill they can range from mild to wild. VR ALex |
do you know how long the gear rod has to be thanks martin.
|
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