Update on the SubaBug....
 

Not sure if you guys are still interested, but here is a quick update on the SubaBug...

I've had it to the point that it was running under full power. very fast.

I started to build a rad shroud, but decided to go to a front mount radiator.
So right now I'm looking at getting a rad that fits the front of the bug.

I'm also going to have the coolant crossover pipe modified so the hose exits
at the front of the motor.

So I'm actually taking things apart again in stead of putting them together...

I'm even toying with the idea to put it all in a Fibreglass buggy.... :eek: :eek:

Rob.

Hehe, finally seen the light for a front mounted rad :D You will be glad you did. I messed around with rear rads for ages but when you get to real power there's no substitute for natural air flow, just make sure the air can get out too!

Look forward to your next site update!

Rich

Thanks rich..... yeah, looks like I scored a GTi radiator, gonna take a look this weekend.

After reading Jak's post I'm also considering moving the motor and tranny forward.... but that's for later.

Rob.

Yeah, I'm moving my engine forwards too. I want to get it all under stock bodywork and the cam covers foul with the quad cam if you don't move it forwards. Seems like a nice and easy way of improving weight distribution and effective ground clearance by moving the sump closer to the axle line...

Rich

Rich, you gonna cut out the torsion bar centre or do what jak did and put the box over the top of the torsion bar? What box you using?

I'm kinda sorry I cut the centre out of mine now, I might see if I can locate another pan and scrap the one I have. I might have moved the engine too far forward, the drive shafts are kinda out of line. You can see how out of line they are on my site. They're not binding or anything, but I can't help but think if I was to gun the throttle something would give...

http://homepage.eircom.net/~veewrx

I'm keeping a VW gearbox this time and not cutting the torsion housing, Jak didn't cut his either, just reversed the rear cradle and used a mid-mount.

You can use quite big angles if you choose which CVs you use so I'd stick with your current chassis if I were you. The main reason I didn't was that with the cab I don't want a cage and I think I would loose too much strength out of the chassis. I also want to retain the stock back seat. If the stock gearbox breaks, I'll upgrade to a Rancho pro street or similar with long ratios.

Rich

the cvs are 944/type2 items. They came on the shafts I got on ebay and I don't know their condition so I'll probably replace them eventually with fresh ones.

The stock rear seat *should* be able to be used, but with a little modification to get around the gearbox. I plan on opening up the parcel area into the engine bay and panelling right behind the seat. I'll include a late bay inspection hatch into it for access to the engine from inside.

man, there's sooooo much work ahead :eek:

Do you know what type of front mount to use ?
I checked Berg's website, but there are no pics.

Rob.

Rob: if you are talking about when you move the gearbox forwards, most people don't bother with a front mount, the mid mount is fairly close and nice and solid. You may have to fit an earlier nosecone and remove the reverse switch to have enough clearance to the torsion housing tho'...

Rich

Hi

On the German Look site in the Transmission photo page there is a picture of the mid Berg type mount, 2nd page, top left corner.

Rob you and I doing very similar things, I keep reading what your doing and I say to myself thats what I have planned, we must be terestial twins or something.

With the reverse light switch issue, you can bore a hole in the torsion bar housing top give more clearance.

Steve

That's good to know Steve! :)
Rich

Sorry to bump such an old thread, but youre saying that if I reverse the rear mount, I will not have to cut any metal at all at the back? I thought one still had to cut quite a bit?

Didn't someone cut out the center, convert to shorter torsion bars and move the assy forward that way?

It also depends of you have a dohc or sohc motor.
THe sohc motor will probably fit with the motor moved forward.

Rob.

Is your Ej25 physically larger than an ej20?

I was meaning external bodywork, you will still have to trim internal parts. It may just be possible to get a twin cam in there without cutting, no chance with a quad cam.

By reversing the rear cradle, junking the front and using a berg style mid mount you can move everything about 50mm forwards without cutting through the torsion housing, any more than that and you will have to cut through it and use shorter torsion bars or coil-overs. Pics of how I did mine are on my web site

Rich

Ah, ok , I see, thats what I thought. Going to take a look at a ej20TT, buy it if it looks ok, going to hook it all up with megasquirt.. I`ll only be reversing the rear cradle, want to keep my torsion housing.


Hope the twin turbos wont give me to much problems..


My gearbox on the other hand, is in a whole lot of trouble :p

There are a couple of people running link ecus with the twin turbo engine (subbug yaho group) and Tom 72 (in Belgium, I think). The general concensus is to dump the twin turbo set-up for a single, much less hassle and better for tuning, something to do with how the twins work together..

Rich

Yep, everyone says that the twins are hard to tune, can`t see why it should be so hard... Guess I`m going to find out when I try though :)

Even if I ditch the twin setup, I will atleast get a closed deck block, so I guess it will be worth it anyways..