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questions about super beetle
I've sold my type 3 squareback and I'm looking at getting one to do a German Looker.
My question is about the windshield. I've seen some supers where the windshield is flat and some that are curved. Some even look more curved than others. Or are all curved windshields the same and it just looks more curved. What year would be the best one to get to have the most curve in the windshield? any information is greatly apperciated. Thanks :D |
By model year, flat-screened Supers were 1971-72. The curved windscreened Supers (1973-75 sedan, 1973-79 convertible) were all the same except the convertible's are reported to be thicker.
Are you planning to incorporate a curved windshield into a Squareback? If so, WOW! You definitely have to keep us updated on that. :) |
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But a curved window in a squareback would be something to see. Is there any specific year I should look for. |
Since you like the Curve i persoanlly say the Early to mid 73. It has the Curve windsheild, 3 bolt struts, and thin bumper mount slots.
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alt+f4 is correct in what makes an early '73 stand out from its curved windshield cousins.
Some people prefer the '75 because it has rack and pinion steering. Interestingly, the Supers with r&p have a slightly worse turning radius than the steering box Supers. Any of the identifying differences can be addressed after purchasing the car. It is easier to change the fenders, bumpers, struts and the anscillary parts if necessary than to convert a steering box Super to a r&p one. But that can be done, too. So, early '73 or '75 are the two best choices. You have to determine what is better for you. |
I'd go for a later one to get the rack and pinion but also the 2 bolt struts, makes getting Porsche bits on much easier..
Rich |
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:cool: :cool: awsome information :agree: :agree: |
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Between steering box Supers and rack and pinion Supers, there is a small difference. All of the above is based on stock configuration. |
so which is better for the GL look. steering box or R&P. I want good handling overall
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I would also like to know more about this setup. Most importantly as to where can I get one.
http://www.germanlook.com/Images/0107.jpg |
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It really comes down to your intent and your personal preference. If your car will be achieving a wider stance with wider tires, you will lose some turning radius. So if your steering remains stock, you may want to go with the steering box. If you are more interested in high speed handling than hairpin turns and parallel parking, then you will want the instant responsiveness of rack and pinion steering. If your budget is deep enough or you are patient enough to wait until you can afford it, you can get the best of both worlds by going r&p now and getting a racing version adapted later. Remember, the cornering aspect of handling comes down to a lot more than style of steering. Weight distribution, suspension, tires, brakes, etc. are all part of it, too. When I was searching for my Super, I wanted a '75 because of the r&p steering knowing full well I had some added expense ahead of me to ditch the hideous battering ram bumpers. At that time, I had a full-on German Looker in mind. I still intend to go that route some day. I bought my '71 because it was in the starting shape I needed -- meaning it was stock (didn't have to undo someone else's project) and in rustfree condition. This project has morphed into what I would call a spirited daily driver German Looker. It won't be stripped of chrome, rear and passenger seats, and sheet metal and glass in favor of carbon fiber, fiberglass and Lexan. It will have a stereo. It has upgraded seats but not true racing seats. It won't have a roll bar. It even has cupholders for crying out loud. Different projects. Different intent. I want my '71 to eventually be able to take care of most daily drivers if need be and be somewhat domesticated if need be. (Steering box is perfectly fine here.) I want my some day '75 to be able to thumb its nose at all showroom performance cars and flat-out back it up every time it needs to. (I'll take the rack for this.) Quote:
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I am looking for the high speed handling, Like in the early 80's with the cars in california that were racing up the hillsides. low, hugging the road and able to take the curves at high speeds. All my car that I have owned had a steering box. Is there that much improvement with R&P. |
Probably not. I gave a long-winded response because I don't want to make a value assessment that is ultimately yours. I tried to be as dispassionate as possible while still voicing my perspective.
My '71 corners in anger as well as some stock GTIs I have driven. Given its stock engine (at the moment) it doesn't exactly sustain its anger. If I were dissatisfied with its steering box, I would be selling it and starting over rather than continuing with its upgrades. I simply prefer r&p. That's all. |
I understand. Just trying to get info to make the right decision for myself. Its all good.
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i would say my '72 and my '75 both handle about the same....... i never raced either on a track, but in spirited street driving i don't really notice much diff. And yes the R&P is an instant response feel. When you move the steering there is really no play, the tires move exactly the same. i hope that didnt sound too contradictory.
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a friend of mine said I should go with the R&P. Since I'm looking for a road racer style car. He said with all things being equal, the R&P is much smoother and more responsive. So that's what I have decided to do. You said that R&P are on the 75 model correct. :agree:
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All work well
All bugs can be made to handle sharp and precise even the beam if its set up the right way,for the super bugs you realy need lowered struts and urethane bushings to maximise r&p or stearing box,we also run 250 pound springs and adjustable strut tops to get a true neg 3 degrees of camber and gas strut incerts.this is for track use and the car handels superbly ,no bump steer and supple ride.Ive also driven stock 1303{curved windsheild} and 1302s{Flatw/s} that handel amazingly well so what ever your budget they are alot of fun the most time consuming and also expesive factor is body work so I would say finde the straightest most rust free bug you can finde you wont be dissapointed either way if its r&p or s,box but you will be realy bummed out if it falls appart from rust and takes all your money and time just makin the thing look good,money you could have spent on maken it go realy good,any way thats how we do it in Sydney Australia take it or leave it its up to you!most of all have fun its a bug after all! We have a blast cheers JS
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V jealouse
My VW addiction is sending me broke but loving every minit,take your time and I allways go with my gut feeling and Ive done well so far 67 Kombi with a 1600 engine twin kadron carbs and a 69 front end,not the ultimate set up but in the 7 years Ive owend it it hasnt cost me a sent its basicly the same car as when I boughtit bar tyres and seats.I drive it every day does 120kmph all day and it rocks.I also have a 1303 project I paid 20 grand australian for and it came with 50grand worth of parts and receipts.I knew as soon as I saw these cars they had to be mine no regretts my 8th and 9th VWs to date and still love em good luck JS
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I'm a true hardcore computer nut. But am clueless to Cars. But I love every minute I'm out in the garage wrenching on mine. I have a friend building me an 1776 engine with dual carbs, full flow oil system and a Porsche fan kit on it. My right hand drive is my daily driver, except for now since the engine is getting redone.I bought mine for $500.00 american and just in body mods and pan rust repair, I've spent almost $8,000.00. Then there is the addded expense of the new engine and I still need to figure out the paint and interior. But Loving every minute of it. :) :D :agree:
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i have 1303... not sure what year but i has 2 bolt suspension... what does this bug have... rack or R&P??
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