Wow just read this from the Start... SWEET build :)

Hope you get some Video over it when it's all Said an done ;)
I know I'm not only one what would like to See it.

Chris.

My other 1303 GL
 

Hi Steve,been looking through your thread again.How you getting on with the fuel pump set up ? I am doing some research at the moment on best set ups for STI powered bugs with external fuel pumps.Any info advice is appreciated.

Regards Graham

Hi Graham

I'm going to go in tank 044 now. I'm just collecting parts now.

My friend who gives me some advice in this area and does any tricky welding (he builds fuel, inlet & exhaust system for some of the fastest cars down under) suggested going for an in tank fuel pump.

My reason for moving to a in tank setup is that I have fuel system parts strewn around the front area of the car, I feel if I have everything in one spot I can concentrate on keeping that one spot cool.

I currently have a Carter lift pump on passenger side of the car about where the master cylinder would be on a LHD car, its in the path of the exit air flow from the radiator.

My surge tank and main fuel pump are in boot floor close to the radiator.

Steve

My other 1303 GL
 

Hi Steve.

Thanks for the that I would go in tank as well but I dont want to chop the tank now as its painted and I've bought my external fuel pump and filter.

Thats good thinking on the cooling side of things.I will now concentrate on keeping the heat from my rads away from my fuel system :goodjob:

Hi Graham

I'm not sure if your motor has it, but my motor ECU controls a variable speed fuel pump controller, I control the 044 with this and lift pump runs at full speed.

Steve

My other 1303 GL
 

Nice one Steve I will look into that.

Hi

in-tank 044 fuel pump is finished now, I'm booked in next month for a tune at a Central Coast Subaru guru.

Not really GL stuff but I like a few comforts in my bug. I've been driving around without any sound system since I got the car on the road, so I now have blue tooth for my phone, Ipod and radio to find out why I'm held up in traffic.

I fitted a JVC unit I've had for about 6 years waiting to be fitted, I also fitted a cup holder on the bottom of the radio bracket.

I also fitted a resistor in my LED high beam warning light circuit, it was way too bright and while I had the dash apart and I also installed an air intake temperature gauge. As you can see it was 30 C in my garage that night.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

I made up some front speaker mounts, I bolted these into the front footwell area. When I was drilling holes for the nutserts I used a bit of conduit to prevent my drill from going in too far and damaging the inside of the front 1/4 panel, its also handy if drilling near wires etc. BTW these speaker mounts will carpeted in the future.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

Steve

Hi

I've been collecting bits for my in tank 044 pump set up.

A friend has a Mazda Famlia that he tracks and he had a spare fuel pump housing that I could use for my set up. I had a weld in base for the fuel pump profile cut.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg~original

I went to my local EFI place http://www.afiaustralia.com.au and scored pump inlet filter, then I had my neighbour turn the 044 inlet fitting down to fit into the filter.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...3.jpg~original

Steve

Hi

I'm also upgrading my intercooler radiator to a proper PWR unit.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...4.jpg~original

I had Brad at Westside modify my fuel tank to fit my 044 pump internally.

I washed the tank out 4 times with hot soapy water, no surprises.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...9.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...4.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...2.jpg~original

Pictures tell the story.

Steve

Hi

I also had Brad fit a Kombi tank sender, it was the only one Vintage VeeDub had in stock with the same ohm reading as my VDO fuel gauge. works great, I put 10 litres in and it read 1/4, filled it up and it read full, my tank holds about 46 litres. The stock 1302/1303 send would have been in the way.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...9.jpg~original

A friend has Mazda Familia track and he gave me one of his spare pump housings, Brad gave a me useful tip, buy the special in tank hose for the fuel pump connection, normal fuel hose will disintegrate over time.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...9.jpg~original

So I went to http://www.afiaustralia.com.au/ and picked up the special hose.

Hi

The reason I went in tank pump was to reduce the heat build-up in the pump, I covered the fuel hoses with some 1303 dash vent hose covered in an insulating tape.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...1.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

I drove the car last night and the new PWR intercooler radiator seems to be doing better than the old RS liberty one I had before.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

Hi

The 1303 fresh fan housing cover is held in place by self tappers and speed nuts, I've never liked that so I used some M6 J nuts.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

The one complaint I have of the K Mac strut tops is that if I ever need to remove my strut brace I would loose the camber & caster settings, so I drilled out one of the strut brace holes and used a M8 rod joiner in place of the normal nut, now if I need to remove my strut brace to remove my fuel tank I can use the one nut to hold it all in place.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...2.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...1.jpg~original

and a random phone photo I took a few weeks ago

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

Steve

Hi

Went for a dyno today on the NSW Central Coast, caught up with Jak for a coffee while I was there.

Didn't make as much as I was expecting, with a few teaks he said it should make another 30-40 kWs

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...a.jpg~original

Hi

I was thinking that the wire on my Mazda in tank fuel pump may have been a bit puny to run the Bosch 044 pump.

I trawled the Internet to find a place that sold bulkhead fittings for in tank pump wiring.

Normal car electrical wiring is not fuel proof, I found these units on the HOERR site, not cheap but good insurance, there made by Fuel Safe.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

Hi

I still have a heat issues in the fuel system, I had to use the car in peak hour traffic last week and the pump started to make some funny noises after about an hour of it, then when I had some clear road I booted it and it appeared to run rough.

After my meeting when everything was cool again it was back to normal.

I'm pulling the pump tomorrow to check on the pre filter as it may collected some crap from the recent tank up grades and to fit my heavy wiring.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

Hi

I just ran my first track event at Wakefield Park about, its about 2 hours drive from my house.

At Wakefield I found the coolant temps got up a bit after 4 laps, around 105 c so I will do a bit more shrouding around the radiator air intake, air intakes after the intercooler were 40 c. The coolant temp has never gone over 95 before

Other than that the car ran well on low boost all day, the driver needs some work. My best time was 1:15.0680, the Quaife worked well, I think it helped having no sway bars on the car, it had great traction out of corners, the front felt a bit slippery but after my friends Rudi and Paul told me to harden up, I got a bit more heat into the front tyres and it was much better.

I only did 4 heats, filled up at Marulan about 50-80 ks away on the way down and on the way home and I used 18 litres, very economical.

Steve

video
http://youtu.be/vj3uVjIjrG0

Nice video! Very quick!

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Good to see your car make its first track event.

Thanks guys, after I sort out a few things I will do some more track days

I worry about cooling all the time too, shrouding in is a big deal, but so is the exit so keep that in mind too!

Fun to see the track runs!

Jason

Hi

I've run this car on 40 degree days in bumper to bumper traffic and at our freeway speeds of 110 kph without any overheating issues. I was shocked to see that the coolant temps got up so high.

So as they say racing improve the breed.

I just had a scoop folded up to fit in area where the chassis deformation element normally sits, I will post photos soon.

Steve

Hi

A couple of photos from the weekend Supersprint

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...a.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...e.jpg~original

Yes, too hot that Steve, some rake angle on the rad makes it far more efficient and possible to use a smaller rad for less drag, the manufacturers stand them upright only for 'packaging and space reasons' but i dont think thats whats going on with yours as you have good rad area, a 'bottom breather' system in a Beetle can be difficult to extract the hot air, i use gills in the lower front wings to extract the rad air into the low pressure area behind them, upward venting is the way, but not easy on a street Bug without surgery, mine splits the venting air over and under, but its easy with a track car, i use additional upper vents in the front 1/4 panel fuel filler neck area, both sides are in a low pressure area to pull the hot air out, but its not descreet, i run at 80c during events, after, it heat soaks to 90c in the paddock where the fan cuts in, so you need to pull the air out more from the under tank and lower wing areas i would guess. nearly there:)

Hi

I made up this scoop to fill in the open part of my chassis and to direct air up to the radiator. I also filled gaps between the radiator and the shroud so that any air coming through the grille has to go through the radiator.

My friend Neil at Rust Right did all the folding and guillotining for me, he made my A & B stiffeners for me.

I assumed that all was working well as I had no issues driving on the street, driving at sustained higher speeds showed up the weakness in my design.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...d.jpg~original

For a temporary measure I made one just like that from ABS, it worked great and I havn't yet been able to duplicate the success of the simple design.

Jason

Hi

I agree, simple things often work the best.

I've been driving the car around today, the weather was not all that hot today but I've noticed a difference, coolant temp always sat about 90 degrees, now its sitting around 82 which is just after the thermostat opens.

The thermo fan usually comes on if I've been sitting in traffic for a while, it didn't come on today at all.

Non 1302 or 1303 owners may not get what I'm saying about removing the deformation element from the front of the chassis.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

The shaded are is where the deformation element usually sits, I had this section open so air would come into the grille and go back out bottom, not actually doing any work.

Steve

Hi

Some kilowatts were found. My car was just below the legal DB limit on a friends DB meter, to be on safe side I stuffed some chicken wire up the exhaust before going for rego inspection, I thought it had been removed, it was found to be still in place, I think some of my missing kilowatts are here.

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg~original

Hi

Just got back from the dyno shop, good news is that kilowatts were found as well lots of torque.

Shame its raining, I had to behave myself.

MSEdyno 2 is high and low boost settings on the e Boost 2, blue is low, red is high. MSEDyno 1 is just two different runs.

The E boost 2 defaults to lower setting which is about 16 psi on start up, I need to select the higher setting if I want it.

Its a heavy car so I will see how it goes on the weekend at the VWMA drags in Sydney.

Steve


http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original

Hi

Its been wet lately, so now its a little drier I went out a local free way to run up to the speed limit, well sort of.

Steve

http://youtu.be/qDnLsxNzkvI

For the HP people that's about 273hp and 368ft/lbs! That'll get you going pretty well!

Jason

My other 1303 GL
 

Ha Ha,superb video..... I get the feeling when you were not laughing you where grinning from cheek to cheek.:D:D:D

Well done Steve C :D:D:D

Hi

Thanks guys, its a ball to drive, its raining here again, there is VW only drag event tomorrow that I want to run, I hope the weather gets better.

The tuner said that I must be crazy having this sort of power with only 2wd.

The tuner also said that's all I will get out of it without changing things like cams, turbo or even stroking it out to 2.2.

I cant wait to get on a circuit again but I'm pulling the car of the road after the drag event to fix some paint defects so I will have to wait for a while.

Steve

Hi,

What clutch cylinders are you using? I'm impressed with your setup and am keen to see what sizes work. I'm currently thinking t25 parts..

My bug has a 901 tranny and a t4 motor.

Fab car as always! Love reading your threads.

Cheers.

Hi

I'm using the stock G50 slave and a 19mm master, I have a Kennedy clutch that's fairly heavy to operate.

Thanks for looking

BTW, drags were called of due to rain, car is now stripped and is back in for paint fix up, don't get your car soda blasted, I have rust in an area that I've never seen a bug rust before. PPG paints wont warrant a car that's been soda blasted.

Steve

Whaaaaaaa? Why not, that seems really odd? They must have some sort of reason?

Jason

Hi

PPG are sending out a rep tomorrow, he will take a sample of the rust to analyse it to find out the cause. There is few mentions on other websites about this issue.

Steve

That's steve jnr giggling.
But I do the same when im in the passanger seat!!!
When I drive the beast it's all 100% concentration.:):):)

Is it a water based paint? Most modern paints are now water based,which means the proper primer etc. must be used.I´m not a painter,but I´ve heard of issues like that and others with water based paint.The painters where I work (Airbus Germany) had told me with such a paint the top coat is only part of a "system",using the wrong primer,hardener,etc. will affect the results of the finish.

Hi

This is good old fashioned two pac, I had my old yellow 1302 painted in acrylic, it still looks good, I regret not going acrylic again, its much easier to do a spot repair.

Birdman, you need to drive it again, it has much more punch now.

Steve

Hi

Car is all back together after a respray. I took the opportunity to get a stock engine lid painted at the same time, I think I will only use the tail for speed events.

All I had to do to fit the air cleaner in under the stock engine lid was to turn it around 180°

Steve

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...8.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...a.jpg~original

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original