915 clutch activation
 

I have read the archives and if anything am still confused on how to deal with the 915 clutch release problem.
I already have a Suby/915 KEP adapter and 911 clutch.

Hydraulic or mechanical?

Is there a shopping list of parts to do this, or better yet a kit?

If you have "push" type clutch fork you can use the cable on a rear engine set-up. If you have a late model "pull" type 915, you can't use the cable without major mods to exit location of tube out of tunnel, or longer cable. If this is a mid engine set-up you might be able to use the late model with stock cable.

I'm going the hydaulic route with a aircooled.net set-up that replaces the stock cable system. This will prove to be easier than cable for me.

I am leaning to hydraulic as it looks easier but I am still not clear on if this is a simple mod.

I read in the archives somewhere that lever arm ratio needs to be modified to get sufficent stroke, arms flipped, etc.

Is there a definitive method statement on how to hydraulic the 915 clutch?

Nope, and believe me I've looked everywhere. Not even bugat5speed got the conversion covered for a type 4 engine. If you have a suboeroe thingy engine beheind the 915, then yes I believe so as they have experience with that.

Martin Bott tells me that he can do the clutch activation but uses a host of different parts. I have however bought his 915 mounting kit.
As I already have the KEP kit and 911 clutch I would like to use what I have.

If no canned solution, is there a method statement on how to do it using the Saco/Aircooled.net hydraulic kit?

How long before you need to do this? I'm using the aircooled.net set-up (as stated before). I will have pic's and parts needed to do this soon.

I am maybe 2 months away from doing this.

The current need is to buy the parts by the end of July while I am here in Canada and carry them back to Thailand.

I would go ahead and get the conversion kit from aircooled. That takes alot of guess work out of parts searching, and it bolts to stock pedal assy (with access hole cut on passenger side of tunnel). The hard part will be finding a good spot to mount slave cylinder (which is not that hard), and mounting brackets. In two months I better be working on mine...

Here's a pic of my Saco clutch slave side and 915:

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/54864.jpg

http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/54865.jpg

It needs a heat shield (ask me how I know..) from the header, replacement of the remaining rubber oil hose and mounting brackets are not visible clearly, but you get the idea hopefully.

Walter

OK will buy the hydraulic kit now, and look forward to hearing how it goes for you.

Hope it fits my RHD pedal set?

You might want ask about the RHD set-up (didn't know you need RHD). The mounting plate for the master has nuts welded to it (on the wrong side for you) Also the inlet and outlet are on that same side on the master cylinder. If a new mounting plate is made for RHD the master should be able to be "flipped" to clear inside the tunnel since the conector rod needs to line-up with stock clutch arm. I would talk to Aircooled about it...

My setup
 

I'm using a 915/06 with a limited slip. Activation is done by cable pull style. Using a 228 Kennedy stage 1 pressure plate, Alfa Romeo 164 disc (yes they fit on 915 tranny and cost 30 €:angry: :cool: :eek: ). We reversed the 915 shift fork put a original bug throw out bearing on it and use a original bug gearbox lever. Flywheel is 228 bus with VW rabit II bearing. CV joints I'm using from a 911 SC fine spine since I use a 993 LSD. This will fit again to 944 axles. All is working nice even so I may go hydraulic like Walter over the winter.

Hi tomac

That's looks interesting. Do you have any larger pictures?

Steve

Tomac,

Great information here. I have currently purchased a 915/62 and will be using my 228mm Bus FW/PP but will need a new clutch as the splines will not match. You mentioned 'Original bug gearbox lever' .. are you refering to the clutch activation arm on the T1 gearbox or the original bug shifter in the passenger compartment ?

Wally et al with hydraulic clutch,

How does the hydraulic clutch feel compared to a cable operated clutch ? What are the reasons to go hydraulic if a cable solution can be worked out ? I haven't received the gearbox yet but perhaps these answers will become aparent when I can physically see the box.

Thanks

Sandeep

Hi Steve C,
if you send me a pm with your emai I can provide you with better quality pictures of my setup.

Sandeep,
yes I refer to the cluch activaton arm of a T-1. I would like to go hydraulic because I expect a better feel of the activation and not that horrible squeeky sound my cable produces.

By the way I'm using a hi torque imi-101 starter. You just need to chop of 5mm of the base plate and it fits perfect.:angry: :D :eek:

Tomac