Well, you take a 4.0mm. drillbit, a lathe to get the hole in the middle, a small square file, a caliper gage, a spare speedo cable to testfit, file the ROUND hole out to 4,95mm. square, and somebody who tries to be funny.

"Drilling" the square hole in the hub grease cap was easy.

To make the holes meet up perfectly inside of the axle, with one hole from the axe side and the other from the back side of the spindle under an angle was far more challenging. I asked 2 machineshops if they could do it and guarantee that they would not f#(k up my very hard to find '86 turbo spindles. One backed out and said they did not do buisness for private persons. The other one was to busy. So I did it myself with the help of a laserbeam on a drill press.

Bet that was nerve wracking. Did you find you were holding your breath until the holes met?

The hard part was the depth of both holes. Especialy from the back. If you drill to far the cable would hit the bottom of the hole instead of bending and going into the axle bore.

The trick to make sure the holes line up perfectly is to drill a very small pilot hole from the back. I first drilled a 2mm. hole and checked if it was meeting in the middle of the axle bore. It was of by 1mm vertically. I adjusted the clamp of the drill press and drilled the final diameter pass very slowly so it would not follow the pilot hole and take more material away from one side. This only works if the pilot hole has a very small diameter. If the pilot hole is to wide the final drill bit wants to center in the pilot hole and will bend and most likely brake.

If you are off horizontally and the pilot hole would meet low in the axle it would be an easy fix and drill deeper into the axle. If the hole from the back meets up high you would drill deeper from the back.

So the lineup left to right is the most important to get right.

It also took 3 drillbits to do the job. It is very hard steel, take it slow and use cutting oil. If it gets to hot take a brake to let it cool down. Otherwise it could take a whole lot more drill bits.

What an ordeal. I just used n/a spindles. They were already drilled.

I have a couple of sets of those as well. No problem if you use axial to radial adapters and radial mounted calipers. The '86 turbo calipers have a axial 94mm. bolt spacing. The NA spindels have a 76mm bolt spacing.

I've tried making steel adapters 10 years ago but it was to heavy.

https://i.imgur.com/41edr9k.jpg?2

The '86 turbo front disks are the lightest 28mm. disks.

And with the original '86 turbo spindle and caliper there is no need for an adapter and 2 more bolts.

I want to weigh the difference between the front beake setup on the red 1303 and this combo. Both use the same disk and brake pad size so there is theoretical no difference in performance. The weight difference is why I wanted to finaly complete this setup.

Let me throw this out there...if Lanner(flat) sees it, he'll roll his eyes so severely, he may, in fact, hurt his eyeballs. 924 spindles have 94mm caliper bolt spacing, use typical Beetle bearings and bearing spacing, and use 15mm ball joints, which is very handle if you have a 1303.

There's an issue with using them, but I will only detail if you're interested....otherwise I'll just be prattling.

Ah, come on, make my eyeballs hurt to:D. Don't be selfish :)

I know there are other / lighter / cheaper / easier options, I am just showing how to make the parts work that I already have.

I am curious about the pre '78 924 spindles. What 5 lug hub or disk is used for the axial mounted Brembo calipers that require 299 x 28 mm. disks? And are the 94mm. caliper holes the same radial distance from the axle as on the '86 turbo spindle?

Look at you, going right to the problem!

Those of us in the States with Supers got screwed out of factory disc brakes, for some unknown reason, so when I saw how similar the 924(early) spindle was to 1303 spindle, I had such great hope. The biggest drawback to the 924 spindle is the mounting ears.

The 924 uses a 257mm(10.1 inch) rotor, thus the ears place the caliper too close, radially, to the axle line for most of the rotors we might use, so some kind of adapter would be required. This would probably be good for radially mounted calipers, but if using axially mounted calipers, you might as well just use 1303 spindles with the typical disc brake conversion adapters and have no steering geometry issues.

The other, relatively minor, issue with 924 spindles is the steering arm. It is identical to the arm on 944 spindles. So, if you've already made accommodations for 944 arms, as far as the tie rod length goes, you're set. You also need to flip the tie rod end to the top, like you would for 944 spindle.

That's it. Just another option

wrong thread

Made some progress with the 2056cc Type 4

Ahnendorp 71mm couterweight crank

Ahnendorp heads with 41/34mm valves

44mm Weber IDF's

GPP exhaust

https://i.imgur.com/Y8HYupT.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/y1tWBvz.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/xM8tUC3.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/F7E1ajb.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/k8om8ZK.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/M1mvrXP.jpg?1

Still alot to do. My goal is to have this motor in the car this summer

Nice parts! I especially like the (looks of it) biral cylinders.

Thats correct. 96mm. Biral cylinders, JE pistons with 22mm. piston pins.

Ignition setup

123 ignition tune+ distributor, see link for more info.
https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-4-r-v-v/

silicone spark plug wires made to length

MSD Blaster-2 coil (mounted on firewall next to CSP crankcase vent box)

https://i.imgur.com/5gou1gY.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/hKG1RH3.jpg?1