You b*tch! haha! :lmao:

But seriously, any pics of that threaded mounting pad? I am at a loss wrt picturing it...:o

Gotcha Walter lol.. Hope your well. If you look under the back seat on any B/J Beetle pre '72 , you will see the bolt heads concerned, or should do anyway, some times they rusted out and got broken of and or welded over,,, about in the area where Alex has his brace tube connecting to the Torsion tube. It seems to be deleted on any model after '72, ball joint models included, but the fixing on the torsion tube is still there as Steve correctly said.

Cheers for that!
I'll have a look next time. As mine is a late model and a super, it sure won't be there in the body, but I should see s/th on the tube housing. Check!

http://www.ricola.co.uk/images/cabri...ossmember2.jpg

You can see the hole in the new crossmember on top. I've used them on my cabrio..

Thanks for the pic! I think I found a new point for an additional brace point to my cage :-)

Ok, this is new to me also :) Havent really noticed before..or looked :)

Alex, Wally, Here you can see the mounting pad concerned, just above were the torsion bar end plate fits, also from the mists of time, I seem to remember four bolts used on very early models, ie, two per side. The way I was planning to use it was to make a blind vertical tube about 150mm long and bolted down through the tube to the mounting, then triangulate that between the main roll hoop and and the back stay, I finally slapped myself after asking " do I need he extra weight, and will it make me faster? The answer to both questions was no, but not never.

Car has been few months at my garage, doing some little fixings. I just might change the painter when its time to paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/vP9hWH.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...538/RCyOHA.jpg


Also bought few german parts for german car at spring :)


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...912/aHySi1.jpg

Done some paint removing etc small jobs :) Roof is bald now :D

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...540/PT2Qiu.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...913/nBBA20.jpg

Hoses to front oilcooler goes trough pan, one hole is needed to mendeola bulkhead (plate behind front plate).



http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...538/3pTvEw.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/ZuFBE1.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/ADVmzZ.jpg

I'v decided to put the drysump tank to inside cabin, like most of germanlookers what i have seen:


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/xgJCXo.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...537/0bfOb6.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...661/vQsfUs.jpg
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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/Q9wd6a.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/BZmYrI.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...540/4vztvQ.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...673/HtASkk.jpg

It looks like that few things at body must be redone again or re-repaired

Nosepiece doesnt fit at right side wery well, tried csp front fender there is about 10-15mm gap between it and fender.

Rear sides needs also redoing, too bumpy and distorted repairs now.

Small things needs fixing, inner fender at right side has few small holes.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...910/NGtBIA.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...911/XB9v3C.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...633/QadbL3.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...911/NDKkYs.jpg

I did assemble at weekend these steel prototype brake parts, hats for AP rotors and bracket for Porsche 996 calipers.

They fit great, spindle seems to turn enough until it hits to lower A-arm. Now very close to the correct design, which for i will be using aluminum. Now at all steel these are heavy as hell :D

In a month or so i start bodywork again, too cold now and not enough sun :)

Also bought my first own Mig welder about two months ago :)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...921/JrIqic.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/qfyKfz.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/AtqH3g.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/hMvdGC.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/mBCMR9.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...921/tBl9zE.jpg

In a past week i have been fitting berg bus 5-speed.. let the pictures tell most of the story.

Because of the big engine, Rancho etc recommended aluminum bushes instead of rubber bushes with berg mounts.

I did cut the torsionbar tube area at right, but thin sheetmetal above needed just little hammer only.

First i thought of putting hard urethane bushes, and then bigger rubbers 75x50 with threaded M12 ends. Problem with midmount rubber brackets that they may hit to 944 alu IRS arms, so i designed lasercut highstrengt steel 15mm/10mm flat offset steel midmount, instead of rectangular tube.

Any comments? To each end it can handle 350kg loads where 75x50 rubbers are.

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/5240/KixPmi.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6166/BIzu0i.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img923/4774/ikFKsY.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img923/1093/6eHRe0.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4096/UPfLQ8.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img923/3646/onP86M.jpg

Yeah, with the cross bar you really don't need solid mounting.
I say this because I use original (OEM!) type 1 black rubber bushings at the bell-housing of my G50 and WEVO (upgraded porsche aftermarket) bushes at the (wide) 'nose' mounting point.
The wider the nose mount, the softer the bushing you can use imho ;-)
Never broke any mount, not even after soo many drag race launches, wheels up and all...

Walter

Recently i did order around 20 goodridge teflon hose fittings (AN6-AN8-AN10-AN12) and hardline for fuel. Just to make sure, i did sketch about the fittings.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/UeRZqd.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/OowZop.jpg



Probably i will take all valvetrain components too before spring (Oteva 90 springs, Manley 38x117 exhaust valves and JPM pushrods). JPM has replaced the old Oteva 75 springs with newer Oteva 90 springs.


Ï'v been also thinking about the rear brakes. I think i will skip the desing where i have parking brake calipers with existing 986 front calipers.



Choice number 1: Stock 944 turbo 298x24 rotor with 944 parkingbrake shoes - it is the cheapest option, rotors 200€ / pair, brakeshoes 60€

Choice number 2: AP racing 315x25.4 rotors with steelhats and 944 parkingbrake shoes - second cheapest option, rotors 500€ / pair, steelhats 150€ / pair, brakeshoes 60€

Choice number 3: AP racing 300x24 rotors with aluminumhats and with parkingbrake caliper - most expensive choice,o rotors 500€ / pair, aluminumhats 220€ / pair, parkingbrakecalipers 250€ / pair




http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/Adh5WD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/0T7fiQ.jpg

Very cool that you make such nice pictures of the different set/ups!
The alu hat version is of course the way to go if you can spring for it.

Aluversion would be my first choice if it not would need separate parking brake caliper :)

I was looking this parking brake caliper:

http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk/spotv1.html

Just 540 gramm! Awesome. It uses cable operation though.
But a separate hydaulic system would not bother me. Think I even prefer it as would not weigh more.

Unfortunately hydraulic parking brake is not legal in Finland

At winter / spring i got fitted the twopiece rollcage properly, now it is more symmetrical and coworker visited at garage for welding.



http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/KNxOHf.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...924/zzPfHC.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/Z2t75a.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/BqpjnC.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...924/IUMYzW.jpg

Also bought nice drysump tank, which holds about 6-7 litres of oil and at the bottom 2 litres below scawenge line.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/jiDwGi.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...924/Zd3PPG.jpg

Just recently i got my Wasp stage 2 muffler, and it fits really well with 944 turbo rear arms and 4-piston calipers. Looks like i have a lot of room.

Wasp header also did fit with ease :)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/paPUTM.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/2PBIWw.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...924/xFUAAF.jpg

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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/lnPZg6.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...922/o6bHjf.jpg


Transaxle needed more room, so cutting was needed to body and patch was made.. Still, far away from paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/dUG4mY.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/128...923/zlwVFF.jpg

it's coming together, and that motor (drooling) :)

Hey Alex, any updates to your build?

While designing Type 1 and Type 4(!) Billet heads among my project, i am having hard time to decide what rear rotors i should buy.

Fronts are heavy 330x28 48 vane AP rotors, I am looking lighter 315x25,4 24 vane AP rotors to rear, would these be enough?

Fronts

https://www.apracing.com/drawings/cp3580-2898-9cd.pdf

Rears perhaps?

https://www.apracing.com/drawings/cp3047-328~9G8.pdf

After closer examining and measuring, noticed that mendeola bulkhead frontplate was welded about 3mm further than at other end by former painter. Also some rought patches at original bulkhead..

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img922/3237/AgJVz2.jpg

http://www.volkkaripalsta.com/keskus...8b3dbd5ad3.jpg

http://www.volkkaripalsta.com/keskus...90e75c514f.jpg