LOL. no, another thing i was looking at at the same time as you. i sat there kicking myself for not taking measurements. ah ha, i took pics though. one is attached.

If you mount the bump stop upside down so that it attaches to the shock tower you only have a 2" gap, that works out to 3-1/4" wheel travel. If you mount it to the arm on inside of the spring plates the gap is 3" and the wheel travel is 4" to 4-1/4". I guess the ultimate bump stop location will be decided by wheel travel. What is stock wheel travel???

OK, the distance between the bump stop and the shock tower is approximately 4-3/4" with stock suspension. I will remove my bushings from the porsche arms and re-install them in the VW ones and take more acurate measurements. :)

are you taking those measurements with the spring plate on the lower stop? just curious. also a shorter bump stop should work as long as it still have a safe buffering. not sure what that is, but remember reading this somewhere, so probably worth investigating.

Drilled and tapped on the alu. trailing arm where there's a circular area! Pardon my discription! :) Only 15mm from bumpstop to body! Using 225/50/16 tyres with 15mm clearance from tyre to fender and shock solid hard! So far no cracks or tear on the bumpstops. :)

SilverBullit you have the early arms, We with the late arms don't have the flat area on the trailing arm. Not going to be that easy for us. :(

Zen, I measured the stock suspension and there is 3-3/4" between the bump stop and the shock tower with the spring plate resting on its stop. That works out to 5" of wheel travel. Also the center of the stub axle is 1.5" higher on the 944 arms than on the VW arms, lowering your car an automatic 1.5". With the 944 suspension one of the places I'm thinking of placing the bs is upside down on a plate of steel between the rear body mount and just on top of the top of the bs plate on th eshock tower. Basicly look at your rear suspension and draw an imaginary line horizontaly from the rear body mount straight back. Then you could cut out the part of the stock arm that holds the bs and weld it to the steel so you could just use standard VW bump stops. Placed there you get 5" of wheel travel. :)

since i ended up with both early and late ali arms, i thought i would share a pic showing track width differences. i did no measuring and these shots are hardly scientific, but the difference in width comes from the hub. there should be no difference in the length of axles required. spring plate mount is obviously in the same place as well.

here's what they look like (early on top, late on bottom)...
http://www.volksport.net/images/proj...comparison.jpg

those come from a 924S/86 951 for the early and a 944S/late 951 for the late arm. also, here is a 86 951 rotor on the late arm. goes to show the difference (not i get to order rotors again)...
http://www.volksport.net/images/proj...ronlatearm.jpg

Hey Zen, I can take those rotors off your hands, I'll need a pair for the vert.

i'll probably just hold onto them and use them on my 951. it is not too far off from a brake job. haven't measured the rotors on it though. i got these from Vertex for $65 each though. shipping is what kills the deal.

Oh yeah, forgot you had that water pumper. No prob.

Hello Zen,

As you've got both early and late alu arms side by side, does it look ok that the hub of the early alu arm can be used on the late alu arm?

Thanks
Tim

Hello! I have a 1303 or superbetel, of the 72. I need the back arms porsche 944, but which year? My car has the suspension top behind. I thank for all the help

i need two:
the first is 944 for the 89
and later is 944s for the 87

The early aluminum arms are easier to use, year 1985.5 to 1986 because there is a place for the suspension bump stop.

The later trailing arms 1987 and later are a little wider so there is no need for wheel spacers when running most wide wheels. But there is no place for a bump stop to limit suspension travel. Hope that helped.

merci&thank's