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-   -   Porsche 915, I'm looking for proven hydraulic clutch set up (https://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11010)

kai4130 September 19th 2010 14:45

Porsche 915, I'm looking for proven hydraulic clutch set up
 
Soooooooo, I'm on attempt 7.9 now of getting my hydraulic clutch set up to work and I think I'm there but knowing I have to remove the fuel tank, track rods and spend hours disconnecting pipes whilst wiggling things around isn't pleasing expecially knowing it might not work....... again.


So the set up I'm going with at the minute consists of

Subaru EJ20WRX to Porsche 915 with Kennedy adaptor plate, Flywheel and Pull to release clutch.

Porsche 915 transaxle with a type one arm
Landrover Series 2 Master cylinder, Think its a 19mm cylinder
CNC slave cylinder(from the SACO kit)
All operated by my stock VW type 3 pedals

It's been a while...... but when I tested this setup on the bench I'm sure that the master cylinder could move the slave through its entire travel with one complete pump.

Now its all in the car, bleed and operational, things dont feel so good.

When activating the pedal it seems to move a lot with not much happening, the slave is moving but the type one arm doesn't move much. My bracket is flexing a little possibly 1- 1.5MM but not a huge amount. As far as I know I bleed the system twice and I'm confident that their is no air in the system.

Problems that concern me with my set u:

A. I know my push rod which connects the VW clutch hook to the master cylinder needs adjusting/Lengthening. currently the pedal feels like its over half way through its travel and doesn't take much to hit the floor.

B. That my type one clutch arm requires too much force to move the kennedy clutch spring plate. I attempted to manually activate the clutch which was impossible by hand, I ended up with a meter long bar on the type one arm to move it manually. It operates fine and freely however does require alot of effort to move it.

C. I'm concerned that my VW type 1/3 pedals, the clutch pedal/hook do not travel enough to activate my master cylinder fully.


My setup does kind of work but I'm reluctant too... although I will try adjusting it... keep on working on it as I'm starting to doubt that it'll work.

Has anybody else converted their 915 to hydraulic clutch set up, also how they sorted their vw clutch to work a hydraulic master cylinder.


Oh its a RHD type 3 by the way.


I only have this clutch to sort, bleed the brakes, a couple of more snaggs to sort out then I'm back on the road.



Thanks

Luismj September 20th 2010 13:44

I have the some problem but wth GTI engine and similar type 1 trans.
I am very interested in the solution that you find! :)
Do you use extended arm on trans?

Thanks

kai4130 October 3rd 2010 15:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luismj (Post 77761)
I have the some problem but wth GTI engine and similar type 1 trans.
I am very interested in the solution that you find! :)
Do you use extended arm on trans?

Thanks

If your running a type one box in a type one then you should be able to get away with using the Saco kit as it's intended for a beetle and will "bolt on"

Are you using a Kennedy clutch? I was told by a local conversion garage that the Kennedy clutch (for my Porsche to Subaru) is a very stiff set up, possibly a little over kill but this is not helping my super still pedal.

kai4130 October 26th 2010 18:37

Well been very busy doing loads of things other then trying to sort this. But progress has been made.

I've read on The Pelican parts forums that rich fisher (think that's his name) did a beautiful hydraulic clutch conversion to a 915 in his Porsche 914. I know he used a cnc pull slave cylinde which is the same as what I'm intending on using.

Anyway.....

I've decided that the type one arm is no man enough for the job. My Kennedy pressure plate requires alot of force to shift and the current set up is not up to the job. I've gone and payed a rediculous amount of £££ for the complete Porsche arm and springs suited to my transaxle.



http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...7.jpg~original



The next problem I'm contending with is to mount the slave cylinder, one end to the transaxle and the other end to the clutch arm.

The clutch arm end has turned out to be easy. My neighbour made me a clevis pin which turned to to be overkill and was too big as it fowled onto the omega spring. I decided to talk to my local Porsche again to find out how how the cable was originally attached. Due to an error through our conversation over the phone I ordered A part which is the wrong part but has turned out to be perfect for what I'm after, just need to order the rest of the pin.



http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...8.jpg~original




http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...2.jpg~original




And for the other end...


A bracket that'll resemble this


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...b.jpg~original

spannermanager October 27th 2010 14:21

all the hydro clutch conversions i do get a 6mm feed line front to rear, try that, i find it reduces effort.

Luismj October 27th 2010 23:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by kai4130 (Post 77912)
If your running a type one box in a type one then you should be able to get away with using the Saco kit as it's intended for a beetle and will "bolt on"
Are you using a Kennedy clutch? I was told by a local conversion garage that the Kennedy clutch (for my Porsche to Subaru) is a very stiff set up, possibly a little over kill but this is not helping my super still pedal.

Do you have any more information about the saco kit? (link or part number) He is really strong?
I'm use a race clutch similar the Kennedy and with the same weight problem .... need strong legs. :rolleyes:

Pictures only to you understand my project;

New "truck" project... First steel prototype... (10/26/2010) And my forged bus water trans...

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/w...3.jpg~original

not easy, but i try! :rolleyes:

kai4130 October 30th 2010 12:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luismj (Post 78154)
Do you have any more information about the saco kit? (link or part number




http://www.sacoperformance.com/prodd...p?prod=32-1001



Quote:

Originally Posted by spannermanager (Post 78144)
all the hydro clutch conversions i do get a 6mm feed line front to rear, try that, i find it reduces effort.

That's a bloody good idea that, didn't think of that. I've just used hydraulic brake line as that's the size that is used in the original kit I brought. I'm gonna mount my slave cylinder see what it's like, if I'm still not happy then that'll definitely be the next thing I do to it.

kai4130 November 12th 2010 16:40

It would appear that I've nailed it. I've not road tested it and from what I can tell the slave and the arm are going through their full travel.

I've still got the 3-4mm line installed. The pedal is firm, feels exactly the same to my old cable set up with the type one box and stage 1 KEP pressure plate just alot smoother.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...f.jpg~original



http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...6.jpg~original




http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...1.jpg~original




http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...a.jpg~original




I just need to put my engine back together and get it running and then I'll be able to test it whilst I adjust my cable shifter.

I've got a bigger line for the setup which I'll most probably install in the future to reduce the pedal effort but I'm in no rush to change it at the minute. It's fine as is just a little firm.

Sweeeeeeeet

Wally November 12th 2010 17:00

Nice install! Very clean.

kai4130 November 14th 2010 18:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally (Post 78295)
Nice install! Very clean.


That's British engineering for you:D


It'll most probably fail in a couple of weeks and no doubt it's already started leaking fluid:lmao:

dub_crazee February 29th 2012 17:41

I have just mounted my slave in a similar way - from the gearbox housing - but being in a beetle with framehorns it;s not possible to use the diff housing/intermediate housing bolts the way you have. i'l find out tomorrow if it works once ive finished the hydraulic line! im not sure i understand how the omega spring works yet either :lmao:

dub_crazee March 1st 2012 17:25

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...9.jpg~original

bit crude but it seems to work for now. If i dont have any issues with it i'l make something a little better looking.

kai4130 March 5th 2012 04:46

Good effort, I can imagine its a real pain to do this is in a beetle along with the frame horns. There is a discusion on the Pelican parts forum detailing a couple of other solutions for mounting the Saco slave cylinder onto a 915 but there into a Porsche. Thats basically where I got my idea from all be it mines a much beefier adaptation that I saw on the forum.

Did you get the whole SACO kit? I couldn't fit the SACO master cylinder into my gearbox tunnel along with my coolant lines so am having a real pain creating a solution to my excessive pedal effort.


Quote:

Originally Posted by dub_crazee (Post 83309)
im not sure i understand how the omega spring works yet either :lmao:

I am probably wrong, but I would say judging by the pictures I would say that the omega spring has not been loaded under tention. I'm saying this as it appears as though the arm should be positioned further round back towards the engine. You'll know if its in the right place it requires ALOT of effort when lieing on your back to push it home into the correct position. However the pictures are not great at displaying the omega spring so I may be wrong.



Also I see you've got the Porsche clevis pin, I had a nylon bush made to fit the hole/area the cable would of attached too, in an attempt to adjust my biting point I drilled a small hole further down the arm. seems to work ok now.

dub_crazee March 5th 2012 15:36

thanks - yeah i am runing the whole saco kit. ive got a pair of -6 fuel lines running through the tunnel but obviously arent as big as coolent pipes. still pretty tight in there!

you are right the spring isnt under tension - its just flapping about at the moment. i'm not entirely sure where it is supposed to fit - it goes over the little post but isnt a tight fit or anything

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...4.jpg~original

i ended up welding the clevis to the adjuster nut that came with the slave cylinder - i'l see about adjustment when i get to fit the engine :)

Turbonutta April 10th 2012 18:24

Woooa i have a 915 but all i have is a single arm maybe mine is an earlier unit...all those arms and springs whats all that for?


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