Thanks Wally, it’s taken me 10 years to get it just where I want it!!

I’ve got a charge cooler in place at the moment but long term I was looking at the AEM water meth kit. It’s fairly priced and seems like a good option to cool things down a bit!

I finally achieved my goal!!! 264hp at 16.5psi!!!!!
Makes 188hp at 11psi with boost controller off.

Figures haven’t changed too much lower down despite the considerably smaller exhaust housing and increase in CR which is a little disappointing.. The weather has been aweful here so haven’t had the opportunity to drive it since!

Here’s a few runs whilst mapping. Max 264.5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/877x5nf7fw...%2007%2020.jpg


Finally two runs, one with controller turned off (11psi) and one on (16.5psi)
HP boost

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2d0jn5189...%2019.png?dl=0


HP torque

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zwivb1atkw...%2046.jpg?dl=0

Thats a bit weird indeed. Pity your dyno didnt have the boost pressure in the graph.
It will probably feel very fast anyways 😉

What engine combo is it now in this form?
Cam, cc’s, heads/valves thanks!

Hey Wally
The second link was boost vs hp (on my latest session) but not my previous session

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2d0jn5189...%2019.png?dl=0

It’s 2056, 38x42 with a web cam 118 turbo grind iirc

Ah, so its 1 bar at about 4400-4500 rpm. Thats not too bad for basically a 2 ltr engine.
Maybe the compressor wheel is a big big for this hp? Compressor wheels determine spool almost as much as the exhaust wheel.
What turbo is on it atm?

This combo could/should do a little better as head size and cam seem ok for 300hp at 18 psi with these low inleg temps. Maybe timing has been kept a little conservative?

I do think maybe the turbo isn’t the best for my motor. I’ll drive it for a year or so and then maybe consider changing the turbo for something a little more modern. I’m running a Garrett t3/4 hybrid at the moment.

So at the moment it made max 264.9 at 16.5 psi, another couple of psi would be around the 300 mark I guess.

After the woes I’ve had with it over the last year I didn’t want Greg (the chap mapping it) to push too far as I don’t want to kill it again. I put 100 miles on it today mostly back at 11 psi and had loads of fun! Hat the boost controller on a few times and it was great.

In your experience Wally what sort of boost can you run to with stock head studs?

I’d say the head studs can handle way more then you’re now, but its the stock heads that trend to worp a bit, causing leaks.
Even stock engines saw this problem. Especially buses..
Anyways, never torque the head studs more then stock in an attempt to make it seal “better”. It gets worse with more torque on the head studs then stock torque settings.
Thought I’d mention that again, for others that might be tempted 😉

Thanks for the heads up (pun intended 😂)
What tricks have you used to keep the heads sealed in the past, I understand your heads are far from stock now!

When I dropped a valve seat last time (18psi) we saw no evidence of the heads leaking which is good 👍

Unfortunately none that can be used on cast iron liners.
Even then, I promised it was their intellectual ownership or s/th...

What helps are new heads (AMC seem a slightly better alloy) and keeping the bore stock, so preferably no machining that weakens the head. Good cooling and a really good tune are also just as important (and often overlooked/mistaken).
None of this is cheap though, I realize. But turbo is hp and there just is no cheap hp.