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scourtaud April 18th 2011 18:56

Double post sorry

scourtaud April 18th 2011 18:57


I keep following your post as sort of a dream that I'll never go for (doesn't fit my usage of my beetle) but still, I'm impressed.

About the Fuel pressure, I run a CB Quicktune kit on my 2007 engine and I also have issues with the fuel pressure that I don't understand. All I know from the logs is that fuel pressure (3bar / 45psi) at idle tends to drop quickly after the engine has been running for a few minutes. I get the feeling the fuel pressure regulator aren't all that reliable but I have no certainty.
I have done some testing, it has nothing to do with angle of the FPR or temperature, it just happens...

Maybe you could try changing the FPR and see if it solves your problem.


70Turbobug April 19th 2011 03:29

Maybe the feed line from the tank to the pump is too small? If thereīs not enough volume,you wonīt be able to hold the required pressure.

Wally April 21st 2011 06:01


Originally Posted by Bruce. (Post 80373)
I'm also guessing you have a genuine 044 from a known seller? Apparently there are copies on Ebay which look good but don't perform.

Whats a 'known seller' worth these days huh?
The info in this link I recently found comparing a fake chinese copy 044 and a real one was really helpfull.
Just for the record: I have a real Bosch 044 ;)

Bugscandrift April 23rd 2011 09:37

Wally, your car is absolutely my inspiration..

Wally April 26th 2011 15:30

Thanks man!

Since installment of the 25,5mm torsion bars I have felt some severe trembling of the wheels when doing a burn-out on a less watered surface.
The extra brace from fork to cage didn't make a difference either, so I concluded it must be my now 20+ year old Bilstein gas shocks not up to the task of controlling my thicker torsion bars.

As Santa Pod is rapidly approaching as well as Time Attack in june, I opted for the shocks that Porsche delivers with the M030 option afaik on the 944T: Koni yellow-Sport shocks. They are a safe bet that they will match the torsion bars, are oil and gas filled and single adjustable.

volkdent April 26th 2011 17:56

You crack me up!!! 400hp and 20yo shocks, you are a nut!:lmao:


Steve C April 27th 2011 01:17

Hi Wally

I have the same 944 Konis for my bug. Is the steel section around the shock base for a sway bar?


judgie April 27th 2011 03:36

you could of got the billys rebuilt. konis are a good chocie but i allways try and go with bilstiens, i'm a rally man at hart.

Wally April 27th 2011 04:16


Originally Posted by volkdent (Post 80595)
You crack me up!!! 400hp and 20yo shocks, you are a nut!:lmao:


You're right about the nut part anyhow :lmao: but the 20 year old Bilsteins were still in very good condition, but probably out of their spec range atm.
If it aint broke....right? :D
Bilstein and Koni are both quality products and usually last a lifetime.

but you may have been right though that it was a little overdue to replace them. I just always have wanted to go to coil-over after these, but am/were still on the fence about what and how. It just could not wait any longer now.

Steve: yes, they are for the aussie-made Whiteline sway bar attachment ;)

Rob: The Bilsteins are not worn or anything, but just could not cope the stiffer sway bar imo. I don;t think you can upgrade the valving on those? Or can you?

The only thing I would have wished is the attachment eyes would have been nicer if they could have been a uni-ball joint top and bottom. Someday I hope someone thinks of a way to put that into these Koni's.

Funny thing was, I ordered these with Paragon products in the US and these Holland-made shocks were cheaper there including transport then that I would have ordered them here...I had a very hard time ordering these over here anyways, so ordering them online was easier and faster after all too.
Gotta love the internet.

Bruce. April 27th 2011 09:19

Bilstein UK used to be able to rebuild shocks. They tested on a dyno, drained the oil, changed all the seal and checked the rod. Re-valving was an option too. However, I don't know if they still offer this service and not all units can be rebuilt.

There is also a customising/motorsport service at Bilstein (de?) and can be contacted via +49 (0) 2333-791-4444

judgie April 29th 2011 04:20

i wouldn't want to run uni-ball on a street car, even more so with the mileage you do. very harsh and they dont last long with the dirt on the roads.
I'm with you on the coil over on the rear, i dont think its a upgrade. only way of doing it imho is the way j-sport have done it on there race car.

70Turbobug April 29th 2011 06:28


i wouldn't want to run uni-ball on a street car, even more so with the mileage you do. very harsh and they dont last long with the dirt on the roads.
I would have to disagree,sorry.If you do a lot of offroading,then eventually the uni-ball will wear out and become sloppy,but it wasnīt designed for such use.I see many cars here that use uni-ball set ups,not just bugs as "daily drivers" with no problems at all.Some like the uni-ball set up from Remmele or MBT and some donīt for various reasons,thatīs fine,itīs not everoneīs cup of tea.If you never wash your car,then dirt and grime may become an issue eventually,but the uni-ball rod ends are pretty tough - I see it everyday on aircraft where rod ends are used everywhere.

ricola April 29th 2011 10:52

I think the key is to use the rubber boots over the uni-balls with plenty of lube inside them for a street car..

Wally April 29th 2011 11:21

Thanks, Good points! I'll see how it goes with these and let you know ;)
Have a great WE!

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