The Oval looks outstanding; the dragster is coming along nicely. Beautiful work. :agree: :agree:

Kool stuff, I like you're rear lid enblem, where did you get that..?

The VWautomatic came from a Kombi and the 2700 I had laser cut from aluminium.I took in a 1300 badge from a 66 Beetle and that was the nearest font they could find.I hand finished it to resemble the 1300 badge,then had them all coated in 24c gold.

Done some more on the Oval-progressing with the injection.Made new throttle rods and doing the fuel rails.Using some extruded aluminium with small hats to go over the O rings on the injector ends.Couldn't find any fittings to screw into the rail,so machined up some Ally plugs and welded them into the rail.Can now thread them 1/4 gas.Drilled and threaded one T/B below the butterfly for the air temp sensor.Have to find a place for the one that will be in the oil.Have machined a Volvo 244 distributor and fitted a VW drive tang.It looks like a 009 and takes the same cap.Will T into the vacuum line going to the Auto for the MAP sensor and will make an adaptor the fit the TPS switch-a job for tomorrow.

Have got it running but having issues getting the idle fuel map correct.We have manage good readings thru the rest of the rev range,but can't get the idle A/F ratio low enough.Ended up buying a TPS switch that fits the T/Body and is adjustable-just needed to redrill the holes in the T/Body to get the idle voltage correct.Mounted the temp sensor in the blanking plate that goes over the original Type4 fuel pump mount-not in the oil but getting plenty splashed onto it.The ECU I am using is Delco which needs a good idle vacuum reading-which I don't have because of a mild cam and dual 48mm throttle bodies.Initially we thought we could get around this,but not so because the vacuum is too low and fluctuates badly.I have now made a small vacuum canister and put one way check valves in the 4 lines and it now idles at 12'' HG and is very stable.The poor vacuum was also no good for the fuel pressure reg or the modulator on the Auto Trans.I was running 20.5 Lbs/hour injectors and have changed them to 18.25 Lbs/hour and it's running real sweet with just the normal 4 cylinder chip.Waiting for the bloke to come to do a new chip for it which should be an easy one for him now.If it is still slightly out,can do a fine tune by using the TPS switch for an idle signal as well.I had to make some new airfilter bases because they had to be offset to clear the fuel rails.Milled them out of some 6mm ally and used my original Weber filters and tops.The first fuel rails didn't work(my first effort with the TIG)because I didn't put enough weld on each end and they leaked.I had the fuel pressur reg in the end of one rail,but it was a pain to fit and not leak,so I machined an alloy block and fitted under the car directly into the return line.I have the MAP sensor under the car as well,so all the vacuum lines are out of sight. I will put the small alloy vacuum canister under there as well if it all works OK.When I made the next fuel rails,they got plenty of weld and I pressure tested each one with 110PSI in a bucket of water-all good now.http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/6291/inj22wk9.th.jpghttp://img258.imageshack.us/img258/347/inj24gs4.th.jpghttp://img478.imageshack.us/img478/5382/inj23tt8.th.jpg

Oh-got the seats back as well from the trimmer-didn't turn out too bad I suppose.Ended up using all the original seats and I sent him pics of my NB's seats for him to copy the trimming pattern using the perforated leather on all the facings.He has padded them up a bit too much because when I sit in the back seat my head touches the roof because the whole rear headlining is much lower with the sunroof cavity( from memory about 40mm lower) I still haven't finished putting the fronts back together.Have stripped and polished the alloy back rest adjuster knobs and made some small blank panels that clip to the lower frames so you can't see in under the seats.The white dots in the leather are just how the light catches the holes in the pic.The original plastic knobs on the seat slide adjusters are a bit RS-so i will machine some Ally ones with a grub screw to hold them on.--------- http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5149/seat2ij1.th.jpghttp://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6454/seat3zy5.th.jpg

Geesh, first tile I see this thread and I must say that I am gobsmacked at all the work that has gone into this car! Nice work and glad to see progress :agree:

18/20 lbs-h seems really too little low, unless you use twin injectors of these...
A good 2,7 needs about 40 lbs injectors or 400 to 450 cc per min. I run 500cc´s and they could be smaller, tho it works well at the moment.

Sensational car dude!

Seeing stuff like this gives me even more ideas for my 56 oval...hmm

Thanks-have got another Bloke coming this weekend to have a go at setting the ECU.If still no good,will buy a Haltec ECU and a laptop and do it myself.

Finally driving it.Bought a Haltec ECU and spent about 8 hours trying to get it running-had no success-only managed to burn out a couple of the Auto starter motors, winding it over to try and get it to fire up.Gave up and took the car to a bloke in Adelaide,a Haltec agent.I left it there for a week and he got it running like a dream.The 20lb injectors are right on the limit and he has set the rev limit at 6200 because it doesn't make any more power after that.It's limited by the crappy muffler I made and the very mild camshaft I fitted.I am trying to run the motor in a bit,but it has unbelievable pulling power from the lights and the auto is unreal how it snaps into each gear when I push it a bit hard.The auto starters are a bit crappy in the design area-the front bush behind the pinion is only 9mm wide and very thin and I was flogging out the bushes fairly quickly by winding it over a lot.I ordered a High Torque starter from CIP1 in the US and it was here in less than a week-unreal service.I have since changed the exhaust to a set of extractors I made some years back and managed to squeeze a muffler behind the drivers side rear wheel-a little on the loud side at idle but OK while driving.Seems to go a fair bit better,but will get it back on the dyno next time I take the car to Adelaide.Couldn't be more pleased with the power and how it drives.Need to run the motor in a bit,then will try it on the 1/8th mile track here.

Heres a pic of how the auto fits in between the modified frame horns.

I have finally finished my car.I was having a lot of trouble starting the thing and with some confusion between myself and the ECU tuner,he finally understood what was happening.As I was cranking it over,the motor was locking up while the starter was engaged and was wrecking the starters.I knew it was going into some kind full spark advance and trying to backfire.Any way he has it sorted now by fitting an ignition module and coil from a V8 Holden and timing it differently so it stays at 0 advance until it is running.I had some whitewalls grooved into the tyres and have been to 3 car shows with it and have done really well.

Rear Fenders
 

Hi, I need a set of those rear fenders. Are they two inch extra wide? Where did you buy them? Do you have a web site for the fenders. Also concerning your trans, in third gear at approx 80 mph, what rpm are you at?

The rear guards are only about 20mm wider than stock.They are the Aero Guards from Vintage VeeDub in Sydney in Aus.I have only just had the Tacho properly calibrated to suit the output from the ECU and have only driven it around town here(the speed limit is only 50KPH)but will get it out soon to test it for you.