Imohr from Brazil
 

Hi,

During my browsing for suspension ideas for my 1303 I came across the site of Imohr from Brazil.
Anyone familiair with this brand?

https://imohr.com.br/en/products/8

I've seen their stuff online, and it looks promising!

I've got some friends building cars in Canada with their products, and they seem to think they're high quality. No one that I know of has tested the suspensions on a race track or similar, to really determine how good they are. I've got a project in the pipeline that will be using both the front and rear setup, but that is a couple of years off at this point. I heavily considered it for the red '68 beetle, if we weren't in a virus-shut-down situation, I probably would have pulled the trigger on it.

ok, pricing looks fine to me and it looks like good quality.
Other brands here in Europe are kinda expensive....

I keep these in mind :D

I'm just getting back into the forums but wanted to share that I've just received both the front and rear setup from Imhor - I went for their STR version of the front setup as I have spindles that I've already adapted through Lanner @ vdubengineering for the 944 stuff. I'll get some photos hosted up and shared out soon. If anyone has any questions, let me know - I'm up in seattle and have gone through the entire "inquiry > Purchase > Shipping > Customs > Delivery > Unpacking" and am in the process of getting my chassis prepared to install over the next few weeks and will share out the build elsewhere.

whoah, you have my attention. please share the progress. I bet the rest of the forum want to see the pics too!

I'd love for you to post some details of the welds. That's the only negative thing I've heard (so far). A buddies shop here in BC has built a couple of cars with the Imhor setup, but it appears they are all garage queens and no one that I know has actually driven the setups hard.

I will do - I'm not a welder by any means and so don't know "good from bad" but do know boogers from what look to be quality welds without being able to speak to penetration. My build is purely intended to be driven as hard as I can drive it. Which is why I'm going this direction. The parts are super clean, they seem to be very well engineered with loads of adjustment and polished finish. The guys at Imhor were great to deal with, worked with my customer requests re: sway bar addition etc. I spoke with a few other guys that have at least the front ends on their cars, one of which is a EJ25+NOS mid-engine bug that will be hitting the roads soon and that dude is for sure a hard driver, so he might be the first to totally beat on those parts for a review. Stay tuned as I ramp up!

Let see if this works. This is the front and rear, unpackaged but still on the shipping pallet.
https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...EG?format=750w

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...EG?format=750w


You'll also peek at my fuel tank, and the parts I'm pulling together to build out the rest of the rear setup.
I've also got an alternate steering setup that might get used which is an inverted Subaru STI JDM RHD Power Steering rack - which I might use as I'm running an STI engine which has the PS pump on it just need custom PS lines - for now I'll stick with what they included.


And here is a full gallery on my personal site of the unboxing / detailed photos of the parts so you can have a peak. They are raw and some or mis-oriented but you can tilt your head easily enough to see the details.

Thank you for posting these!

And after going through your photos, I now understand what some of my friends who had seen them in person were talking about:

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...EG?format=750w

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...EG?format=750w

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/c...EG?format=750w

Here's the thing, those welds aren't necessarily "bad", but I would be tempted to sandblast the parts to confirm them. I talked it over with a fabricating buddy of mine when I was considering ordering the full front/rear setup (before I bought the red car) and we agreed that we can't reverse engineer the setup for less than they are charging. Even if we have to re-make a couple of their parts, we are far better off both economically and time wise.

-Dave

Yes, owdlvr - Agree those are my only questions and will have them blasted when I do my chassis. I have a local race shop that I'd have re-tig / reinforce these parts for me if that's required. For the price, it was totally worth giving it a shot. I've also put a deposit on their "Full track" version of all the a-arms (just the arms/hardware) with all rose/heim joints and hardware but will start with this setup as is for the start of my build.

Yup, can't lose with the price.

Having run full rose joints on a street car (my Audi quattro rally car that I drove, fully caged, for years). I would suggest you don't go full rose joint on a car you're going to put miles on. I was replacing the rose joints minimum once a year, usually twice. Roughly 35,000km per year on the car.

The Audi arms we built, and later sold the design to 034 Motorsports:
https://live.staticflickr.com/3427/3...caa9da16_z.jpg

yeah - that was my instinct - my daily B7S4 is built out with solid mount everything etc. and it beats the car pretty hard. So for this, because I plan for this car to get lots of use was to go "softer" initially and if I didn't like it I could always swap out as the parts are interchangable. Those are sweet arms and nice one on the pattern sale! Love me a rallied out Quattro - pics/vids?

So I don't derail the Imhor thread further: https://www.germanlook.net/forums/sh...2197#post92197

That's a lovely build, owdlvr - thanks for the post.

Wow, suspension is one thing, but steering is another. If you question the quality of workmanship, are you going to put your health and wellbeing on the line? Is there a reason why you don't reach out to the builder with your concerns, maybe ask for the questionable part be replaced. You may need pay for shipping, better than a hospital stay:confused:

Well, it's not my kit, but my comments on someone else's kit. I would still be fine purchasing the kit, knowing I may need to make some corrections. For myself, I have more confidence that we (being my motorsport fabrication friends and I) can correct/repair any issues faster and with more confidence then I would have with "sending it back" for fixes.

When you do the math on the time and effort to develop something like this, it's often much faster to improve upon a design already made.

Those welds look kinda 'big', doesn't mean they're bad indeed. But I have seen different...
And since suspension is something you have to trust....
This will keep me thinking what to buy in the furure.
I once saw someone make these in aluminium, but i can't find it.

Understood, however if something goes wrong, the buyer assumes the responsibility..

You're buying a major suspension/steering component from Brazil...that completely alters the vehicle from stock. You are absolutely taking on all the responsibility, whether you alter it or not.

I totally agree and was willing to take the risk - I wont run it if I'm not absolutely confident in the parts. I've chatted with the Imohr crew and they back their work 100% - I'm having them inspected by a structural welder and engineer for safety. Further, if they are found wanting, I will just have them 'rewelded". The remainder of the parts and the quality overall is well worth it.

Appreciate the community looking out for each other!
Remember guys, safety 3rd!
heh.

Couple updates - agree again with the review of the welds - will have them all sandblasted during my powder coating process and will have them engineer-reviewed to ensure quality. I've also spoken with the team at iMohr and they are more than willing to remake parts that I'm not satisfied with to ensure a good experience. I've now gone through mock-up on the chassis and have learned of some differences between the Brazilian and US pans that will require some edits/modifications to both my chassis and the suspension itself. Was anticipated so I'm not "shocked" by the differences. The 2 key differences that require mods are that the front beam standoffs have a steeper angle on the Brazilian cars and so I'll need to adjust an aspect of the front plates for the front suspension (I've provided iMohr and they're updating the design to accommodate US customers based on this feedback and you can see the bit thats cut and tilted between the framehead bolts - I'll just cut the welds and bend them back to flat). And the rear - torsion bar mount they designed for uses a cross brace that's not found on the US cars and so a Bracket will be required to be welded to the rear tornsion bar to support the rear arm mounts.

Here are some shots - ignore the filthy garage, I just wanted to play with my new parts, not do chores.

Front Suspension
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2062228.jpg

Rear Suspension
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2062225.jpg

This is the bottom of the brazilian Pan that shows where the rear suspension is supposed to connect to
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2062224.jpg

Looks great!

These photos are NOT helping my budget "keep it stockish" plans for the '75 beetle :P

telling you man, you can balance both sides of the line by buying my old suspension kit! Make an offer!

#sorrynotsorry!

#wellplayed

Any updates? ;):D

My Imohr "Top" front suspension that used fabricated, dropped spindles, just arrived this week. The welds while not bad looking are not beautiful stacked dimes.

I did not ask about a front sway bar, and at this point do not even know if one is needed.
JMD - is that a sway bar mount on the front of your forward plate and bushing in the top a-arm?

The 350lb front springs seem a bit stiff, even with the 3 lower mounts to vary the lever ratio??
Already changed to QA1 shocks and now thinking about spring rates and asked in a post about corner weights
https://www.germanlook.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=11998

I now need to make some front hubs as foolishly did not order from Imohr with the IFS. Wheels and brakes are 996
Anyone have a hub drawing?

Neat stuff... from a geometry standpoint what is the primary benefit... I think a trailing arm moves in an Arc lengthwise and relative to camber... is there a point at which the camber change is too aggressive/small that this remedies?