Carb syncronizing
 

I am just now getting to my carb tuning and there must be something very wrong I pulled the engine last month to fix three engine leaks after the cam break in run
I went a head and used the time to try some different mufflers and finally built one.
I've checked the wires plugs and the intakes for leaks with ether .1&2 will not register on the syncronizerbut the engine will smooth out at partial throttle .I even shot a little ether into the 1&2 carb with no change at idle its almost like I have low compression only on 1&2.
What should I check now, is it possable that John Connelly sent a mismatched pair of carbs or that I may have 2 cylinders with low compression on a new build? or could the cam be wiping out 3&4 seem to be hitting good and they do show up on the syncronizer.

What kind of sync tool are you using? Manometer?
What kind of carbs?

IDF 44 Webers and a Indecador type Air flow meter

IDF 44 Webers and a Indecador type Air flow meter. I was using a unisyn and borrowed this thing only to discover I have no carb draw on 1&2.

Make sure there are no air leaks on the top linkage plate, and also under the velocity stacks. Strip the linkage plate from the top,and put the uni syn right on the carb body. It sounds like the right carb is closed and left is way open. sync the carbs to the right one first.

Does the engine turn over like it has even compression on all cylinders?. If so do what Cooter said.

Set the throttle stops first. Then hook up the linkage ans make sure both carbs open at EXACTLY the same time.

If you're using Hex-bar linkage, then because of the tortional flexibility of the aluminum Hex-bar, the left side carb will try to open first. That can be compensated for with adjustment of the little heim joints and turnbuckles at the ends of the Hex-bar arms.


Yetibone

P.S
Hey Yeller,
I went to Northwood HS!

Northwood is only 15 miles or less, away.

I tryed a few dianostic tricks today . I started with a even linkage setting and shot ether in every cranny of 1&2 intake & carb .

It's the air jets, they must be blocked.

I compesated by opening only the 1&2 side throttle linkage and it idled perfect. I shut it down to try another trick,and it was pain to start again it acted like the compresson had jumped

So what you said , rings true . It's very hard to start now. most likely because 1&2 are partly open and drawind in more fuel. and making the compression jump on that side

My hex bar rod is steel and the end bushings are now needle bearings. It very free and no lose motion.

I do have a new question. what size jets should a 2.0 with KB pistons, Jake's web cam and 1700heads be using?

These carbs have 52 jets on the air idle circut.

And what would be the ideal float settings.
I want to check every thing.

This thing made me such a mess yesterday . I just closed the door, and walked away. just to calm down. I really need this car up and running well.

I doubt John sent "mismatched" carbs but if you are concerned, remove them and check all the jets and venturi to satisfy your concern. While they are apart, be sure everything is clean and open. Only when you are sure everything is ok should you try and sync them or you will just chase your tail...
ken

Remember, the heads were built by Head flow masters to Jakes specs, not stock anymore. Bigger valves, etc. I've got the specifics at the house and can send them later. Compression was 8.1 or 8.2 to 1.

head specs
 

Would that not be a bit high for a street engine 8.5.1 will reqire a 91 otane minimun

This is not my strongest area, someone please chime in

While your at it John check with you friend I bought the automatic tranny from.
I want the flex plate gland nut to that tranny It is different from a straight gear car,gland nut, I think , 3 mm thinner without a bushing.

I may go back to my main stay of T-1 engines.

I decided to call up Weber ,one fo the air jets looks cracked. I went and ordered their hi and low jet pac kits. and they said straight up that they feel that 52.s are to small and odds are the fuel jets will be too, if they are smaller than 135. Eric said that is to small for any 2.0.

Ok now what gives. truth ? fibbs? I am not a pro at this and would hate to ruin a good engine .

Up till now I have always worked on single carb applications

Your welcome to chime in ,and voice your idea,s and exploits..

This is my first T-4 and may very well be my last. if I don,t get it right soon. I,ll do different

Idle jets should be .55 to .60mm. Main jets should be 1.50 to 1.55
or more depending on your cam, and air correction jets should be 1.80mm.

I agree your jetting is too lean, and would cause one or more cylinders to be "dead" at idle.

I've honestly rarely messed with Weber IDF's, as I like Dellortos, but I feel sure your 2 litre would need more fuel than the current jetting can provide.

On my last Sand Rail, I had a 2180 Type I with a pair of Dellorto DRLA 40's. The jetting on those were .60 idle, 1.50 mains, 1.80 air correctors. Use that info as a rough basis for yours. My Type I's bore was 2mm smaller, and it's stroke was 11mm longer compared to your TIV.

Good Luck.


Yetibone

Thanks a bunch, with all the warninigs, I got on first start ups and 20 min. runs at no less than 2,000 rpms and all the care that went into fixing the leaks . Id hate to come SO CLOSE, then lose big.
I had to open 1&2 side up 1/4 before it would idle> Now I wonder if theres something up with 3&4 sence they would fire. I do know they have the same air jets . I did not tear into them futher than that. but Iwill now.
One thing the main fuel line runs straight into 3&4 carb and tees off over to 1&3

I havent got a clue as to what Jake's web cams, lift an duration are.I think with my brothers mic,s and other toys I may find out. But I will keep it hush, hush if Jake wishes it so, I don,t want to ruffle any RAT hairs ,they worked hard to come up with those combo cams.
Didn't like the way it worked the starter after it got warmed up I may need to snoop for a reduction drive race starter

hi
dell jets run bigger for the same engine than weber jets generally! keep in mind its better to have a bit to much fuel than run it to lean!!

Thanks again ,
I forgot to ask if the jet pack kit came with new gaskets , most likely not. but at nearly $160.oo you,d think it should
The carbs are almost new, I do have some good high quality gasket paper and a exzacto punch and knife kit, on hand, I am gonna chance it ,
I had allready made extra gaskets for the air cleaner plates and bells.
Are the gaskets bad to tear when disasembling?