Kuhl, now we're talkin...
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Originally Posted by starmember
you dont need castersims if you are lowering the back of the car
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I agree, a raked car NEEDS caster adjustment. Even though I have a level ride height, I'm adding caster to compensate for the front 2mm toe-out. Front toe-out helps turn-in, but hurts straight-line stability. Rear wheel drive cars push the fronts toward toe-out when driving so starting in toe-out makes some sense. Caster helps straight-line stability and adds camber during cornering, but makes steering harder. The air dam should help stabilize the front also. I'm trying to get the best balance of turning and high speed stability.
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Originally Posted by zen
...question...why would you want to create more oversteer with that back setup? there is plenty of oversteer by default. with that engine you will only have to twitch the throttle to slip the back out anyway.
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I don't really want more oversteer. I'm going to set up the rear with 2mm toe-in and -2 deg. camber to combat the oversteer we get from the rear wheel drive. I just don't want to over do it and have it tight in corners. I doubt this will happen with the stiffer rear torsion/sway bars and bushings.
I built the car following what I have seen others do, but now that I have to dial it in I need to understand how it all works together. It seems like the stiffer rear torsion bar (24.5mm) and sway bar (24mm) are to limit suspension travel so dynamically the rear stays toed-in and in negative camber while under power and in a corner, keeping the rubber planted. Too stiff then too much oversteer, so that's why we use rear toe-in and negative camber. Right?
In the end, it's a matter of picking a setup and testing it. I'd like to hear from those of you who have gone through the tweaking and what you learned. Thanks for helping me pick the best starting point for my setup.
P.S. I found this helpful --
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html