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First of all getting a workshop manual is very useful. I got the Heynes one and im really satisfied.
Second, in order to have proper readings on ur gauges you will need to run seperate cables from each sender to the coresponding gauges (i assume that u went this way...). Very important is to run the extra cables in a way that they will remain away from the battery in order to minimize noise (means intefierence, but can be heard some times like a whizling/hissing noise).
About senders. i used an oil temp and oil press from the autogauge range of autometer. I got the gauges fried due to a mistake on insulating them against the dash (1303 stripped)and they short cirquited...
can remember which of the two came witha a cross piece with one male and three female threads. male in the case and on one female i got the warning light with its stock sender, on the other the temp and on the last the press sender. everything was working fine until the short...
About the wiring. I drilled a hole on the engine's firewall and run the 3 from there to the left side, under the rear seat, below the carpets, to the inside of the heater channel and got them behind the vertical carpet that is on the inside of the driver's fender well (LHD).
One thing the u can do to minimize cables is to run a common earth cable. But remember that the earth is as important as a positive or a live ( sender) cable
If you want search for my ride in the members rides section of the main screen. I think that the senders are visible
Chris
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Aircooled 4ever
1973 1303 going towards GL
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