Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercool
Arms are of the pressed steel variety
I didn't know the spring plates were desirable. I assume they make ride height adjustments easier, correct? Should I return to get them?
Standard trans/ equal length shafts. I also have a '73 915-02 trans that I want to adapt so I am not entirely sure there is an insurmountable issue with diff flanges? If I stay with the bug trans, bus flanges should be a help.
The front spindles should bolt up and solving the camber trouble should be relatively easy. Which only leaves the installation of bumpsteer kits to correct tierod angle. (I have done this same sort of upgrade on my Chevy Monte Carlo, on which I installed 12 inch brakes)
Rotors should clean up nicely, as they appear to have never been cut. CV's can be rebuilt relatively cheaply. Parking brake cables can be adapted with the installation of a kit from http://www.vdubengineering.com
Here in the states $200 is considered fairly cheap, remember the current exchange rate is 1 British pound = 1.6504 U.S. dollars, that figures to ~120 pounds.
Master Cylinder is a 24/19, I will try it first and if I don't like the bias achieved with it I can always go back to the stock 19/19. I am reading that the 914 and some 911's have a master cylinder that may work also. I don't recall bore sizes though. |
The spring plates are highly desireable since they provide camber (and ride height) adjustment as well as obviously matching the trailing arm bracket. If you use the bug spring plate you will need to re-drill it to fit the Posrche trailing arm. Re-drilling IMO does weaken the plate maybe not enough to worry about but the Porsche bit does resolve that concern. Also, the Porsche spring plate should come with the eccentric adjusters that that suit the elongated holes.
If you are using bus output flanges they will be the correct diameter but IIRC there is an issue with the length. The VW 181 output flanges are a quick fix for the standard bug box.
I never clean up rotors - it isn't worth it. To get even slightly rusty rotors re ground is around £20 each here with the distinct risk of extra run-out and a rotor that is then closer to the wear limit. Compare that with £43 each for brand new rotors and the extra £23 makes a lot of sense. Correcting run out on re-ground rotors puts them even closer to the scrap limit. Also, there is the issue with potential cracks in old rotors from unknown abuse that may not show up until re-ground.
If you are running 944N/A brakes front and rear then the 24/19 won't solve the problems with the bias. The plain fact is that the rear brake caliper is too small for the front. You will need to increase the rear piston area up to 2200sqmm/caliper to get correct bias with a 19/19 m/c and 1383sqmm/caliper for the 24/19 m/c (19mm piston to the rear, which is actually the wrong way round for the dual piston layout). The 911 m/c is I understand a 20/20 unit so is less desireable than the standard beetle one for best hydraulic advantage.
Over here I bought a complete 924S suspension and brakes for £65 (~105USD) that gave me front legs complete, rear torsion bar tubes and torsion bars, reaction arm, alloy trailing arm spring plates, bump stops, etc etc. The only down side was that it was off an auto and the driveshafts were different lengths however, I paid £50 for a pair of equal length driveshafts that now leaves me with 4 spare CVs. The quality of the suspension with new rotors etc is now first rate. I didn't use the 944 N/A rear brakes but bought refurbished 928S4 four pot calipers (£120) that gives me a rear bias, which is moderated by a bias valve.
Clive