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Old May 13th 2006, 19:06
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Posts: 29
Hi Zeroaxe

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroaxe
Ok, so I have been thinking about the explanation and things.... It was mentioned that when the bars are installed, there should be a SLIGHT 'preload' on them. Now exactly how/what order should the preload be applied?

Here is my take on it, but correct me if I am wrong:
The two diagonal bars should be installed with a 'negative' preload. Thus pulling the top of the shock mounts closer to the frame horns. Because of the framehorns flexing downwards when you excelerate hard, you want the 'free play' to be as little as possible by 'pulling them up' slightly. Then the top bar should be installed with a slight 'positive' preload. Meaning pushing the top shock mounts outwards. This way the top bar will cancel out the 'pulling inwards' force that the diagonal bars are causing, and tie the whole lot in nice and tight.

This is my version of a shot in the dark
Ok I’ll correct you, cause I think your wrong but as I have stated before this is my opinion and not gospel, I have been wrong before, I’m bound to be wrong again, just ask my wife.

I don’t know were you got the bit about preload from, as a rule I wouldn’t preload the bars but make sure there was no play in any of the joints when they are installed. There is bound to be some play between the bar ends, mounts, and bolts, that is the play I would remove, but I wouldn’t wind any preload on to them, other than just the amount required to remove the play.

Also what I would do is if you are installing the bar on a car that’s is all reedy going then I would adjust up the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels, so if your not real skinny then you would need ramps or if you’re a bit like me then a 4 post hoist wouldn’t go a miss. If the car is still in the building stage then I would just loosely fit the bars, but once you are ready to drive it I would remove the bars and get a few miles on the car to settle every thing down, then recheck the engine/trans mounting bolts and fit the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels.

The reason for this is if you install the bars with out the engine and transmission in place then the frame horns may not be in there correct place and buy fitting the bars once you have installed the engine and trans you may be inadvertently preloading the bars.

And because I don’t like looking like a goose I just checked CSP’s website and looked at the instructions for there “torque bar” and they actually say there is no need to preload the bars, Its quite a good set of instructions. http://www.csp-shop.de/technik/pdf/deeng/20917.pdf
Anyhow I must go, the wife is calling
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Scott

1971 2.5L Subaru powered 1302s

http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/
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