Got the chassis back from strippers/powdercoaters and it looks really nice. They plugged up all the threaded holes and the torsion housing so I don't need to tap anything or grind any powdercoat away. Getting ready to get the seals glued on and the holes punched in em.
So I wanted to see how bad that bubbling paint really was... I kind of wish I hadn't. Stuck an exacto knife into the rust. I've decided I'm going to have the entire body media blasted. There is a local company that specializes in blasting bodies using a copper shot medium. I'm dreading finding out the magnitude of decay on this body. Heater channels and lower half seems solid, but who knows.
Any tips or links to rust repair that anyone can recommend would be great. There aren't panels for the section right below the rear window, so I'm leaning towards neutralizing the rust with a chemical, grinding the majority of it away and then repairing it with the correct type of filler... not just bondo everything. Large rust spots will be cut out and replaced with sheet metal. I'm hoping it is only small holes that need patching.
So, this motor was originally set up with the FAT shroud. The breather tower was machined down accordingly. I am planning on running DTM V2 cooling system.
I am wondering if I am going to run into problems because the tower was machined? Since I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a cooling system, I wanna ask. Should I go with the DTM? I know the numbers say so, but a lot of people on here still run the 911 shroud. Being in the states, I don't really have access to the Rolf shroud. Seemingly the only good aspect of a 911 shroud (Sharpbuilt, FAT, Bergmann, etc) is that they look cool. This just doesn't justify it to me... but maybe someone else can shed some other perspective.
Just a pic of the inside, fairly clean and rust free.
thinking about all this body work, I have found some inspiration and settled upon a paint color. This car is gorgeous.
