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Hi mate, Walter has retained his o.e and runs a G 50, many others have too including Russ Fellows, so it can be done, and it's no mean feat to remove the t/ tube, it's the king pin for the rear chassis stiffness and alignment, the frame bracing needs to be in place before the tube is cut out to avoid distortion, also you can't use uniball with no t/tube, so a new control arm points or wishbone pivots need ploting, I did this on my rally cross 4x4 1303 with a Mac strut rear a arm set up, no T/tube but modified horns and coil springs, the prop shaft was where the t/ tube used to live, ,after all that work, I can say catagoricaly a complex car is no fun and a mare to work on, it needs a team of mechanos to look after it, at least for eventing, my mantra now has changed, a bit harsh, but I've been round the block, and unless you do the work yourself, KEEP IT SIMPLE, As much as you can, the original kit can work really well as I'm now proving with my b/j car, it has no problem with keeping double wishbone cars behind, in Rich's case, he had to go super stiff working with a cab' to avoid chassis flex and he knew what he wanted and was able to do the work himself, I think on balance I would keep the t'tube to use the uni balls, but possibly cut the centre section out to move the 'box forward enough and use coil springs on Existing a arms, or you could shorten the b/housing as Walter did successfully and leave the tube intact, this saves a mass of work and would be my way, indeed it may be on the cards soon when my 'box brakes which it will eventually with 200hp twisting it.
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