Thread: Dry sump set up
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Old February 16th 2012, 20:45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dub_crazee View Post
My engine will hopedully be finished in the next couple of weeks so ive been looking into the oiling system

i have a couple of questions/opinions needed.

what oil line sizes are you running?? i was thinking 9/16" or 11/16"

also, those of you mounting your tank higher than the engine ~(mine will be going in place of the rear seat) did you use a check valve to stop the oil draining back into the engine when shut off?

i'm very excited aout having my motor in and running but have this, the fuel lines and hydraulic slave to mount before i can even consider it moving under it;s own steam!!!!
Oil line sizing is partially dictated by your pump and the fittings you can put into it. First question is what pump are you using? Are you using a Type1 pump (requires modification of the drive tab) or finding a Type4 specific pump?

The second thing to consider is everything in the oil system. On the pressure side your overall oil line sizing is dictated by the smallest item in your system. So, for instance, in my case the oil filter adapter will accept 3/8NPT fittings which are essentially the same size as -8AN. Running -10 or -12 lines anywhere else between the pressure port of my pump and the engine is a waste of money and space.

For my Type1 build I'll be running -8AN lines for the entire oil system, this includes scavenge, feed and return lines. You will find documentation online that recommends the feed and return lines be upgraded to one size larger then your pressure side. Basic oiling theory says that the feed to the dry sump and the return should be one size larger, to ensure enough oil into the pump and ensure the crankcase is scavenged quickly. In my case, however, upgrading to -10AN fittings on the feed and scavenge side would make the case of my pump rather thin...is a risk vs rewards question.

The Huebbe Brothers in the US run the same pump and oil system on their rally car with all -8AN fittings and hoses, so in this case I will take real-world proof vs. internet theory. They have no pressure or oil system issues on their car with all -8AN (Type1).

With your tank mounted higher then the engine you will find it drains the whole tank into the engine approximately overnight. A shut off valve is required, and should be placed as close to the pump as possible. The valve should be manual, in my opinion, since the electric solenoid valves could fail while the engine is running.

Hope that helps!

-Dave
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