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Old August 17th 2019, 06:40
Simon Simon is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by H2OSB View Post
The picture from Mike's Boxer Service (MBS from here on out) is exactly what I was referring to. I agree it would be a bit sketchy if the ball join body were loose between the sides on the control arm(I want to say I've looked at the RX7 ball joint idea in the past, and I think it has a narrow rectangular tang), but if you were to trim carefully, it would be easy to have it "captured" between the sides of the control arm. The control arm is substantially thicking than one might think when viewed edge on. I also have an additional idea I will detail as I work on my own set. I am committed to the Passat BJ idea, however, as I've sold off my Kerscher BJs in disgust, quite honestly(if someone could explain why a ball joint should cost $54, I'd like to hear it). There's a guy from Romania on STFs who used Passat BJs after discussing it with Mike himself. His car is a driver and has been working well for some time with those BJs(and actually, MBS has been using this method for years without issue.). I'm hoping I can find some other Golf derived BJ of the same design but with a 15mm pin so I can interchange them as I have some MORE front brake ideas I want to explore.
Cool! I'd be interested in your findings/experience with the Passat ball-joint. If you get something going and want to create a thread about that would be nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by H2OSB View Post
Yes, I used those Whiteline camber bolts. I have a typical "crash bolt" in the bottom. Between all the different adjustments available, I no longer have a camber issue. Not sure about caster. I, too, have the caster fix bushings for the sway bar. The car is not on the road yet, however, so I don't if I have any kind caster problem.
So you're using the Whiteline camber bolts in the slot at the top?
How does that work? I've got the stock 944 adjuster in the top slot at full negative and I don't think I have much if any space left between the spindle's "ear" and the strut housing. Don't think I'd be able to get any more negative camber out of it by using those Whiteline bolts.
Would it also not wiggle around because of the slot in the strut?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadewombat View Post
Yeah, I went with some cheap spherical adjustable top mounts on my 1303 and I think I got 0.5 degrees additional. I don't remember, but it wasn't much.

You can get one of those triangular camber gauges that mounts on the outside of the wheel that will work even with an uneven surface. You just get a measurement of the ground first, roll the car to that spot then measure it and subtract the difference.
Yeah, still have a list of tools to get. Some (digital) camber gauges that allow for easy zeroing are on that list
I hope it'll work well enough, the floor is all over the place, so not just off in one direction, might be a bit too much.

Last edited by Simon; September 5th 2019 at 15:02.
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