A few answers...
Hi!
Thanks for your mail. I try to find some pictures on my PC. Stay tuned! Here some q's and a's!
...Are there adjustable coil-over shocks available other than a system I've seen using AVO shocks? A kit car manufacturer Legend has a system for the front I know of but I would like to know what the Kafercup cars use. Bilstein? Koni? Spax?
-I don't know the word AVO. Never heard, sorry! :-D You can purchase Bilsteins for the front from my father's shop.
...In the rear, whom do I contact to purchase the Bilstein coil-overs that will allow me to get rid of the torsion bars in the rear? Or do you recommend keeping the torsion bars, but a stiffer version of them?
-Coil-overs for the rear, Bilsteins, too. There are two different versions for the rear available. One version for road use, one for race use. The race version is completely adjustable in height, stiffness (in and out travel) and the dampener pistons are mounted with ball bearings. Best way is, when you use adjustable spring plates, but not height adjustable, they are adjustable in the length and you can change the wheel position, too. They are mounted with 4 screws to the old torsion bar housing and are done of aluminum with unibal fittings.
...What kind of bracing are you referring to? Could you send me pictures to my personal e-mail address?
-Sure. A good race cage with self-made mountings for the rear damepener ends and for the front axle top ends.
...I also recall seeing on your website an anti-roll bar that was mounted between the front torsion bars as opposed to hanging underneath the lower torsion tube. Is it available?
-On our website??? On my fathers website??? No. :-D We've got a special front sway bar in 16mm diameter, with unibal fittings. An ideal, but more heavy front setup would be the following. Use a complete 181 Thing front axle, get it cleaned, weld some GB adjusters in and use the complete front suspension stiffeners with the original mounts to the chassis. These ones are radical, even the stiffer front axle is stiffer than all you can buy. No bending under high load!
...Which Fuchs offset / width can I use? I will not accept anything smaller than the 16" version.
-Hard to find them, but I would use 6" x 16" ET around 55 for the front, maybe 7" x 16" ET around 52 would work, too. The rear with the same 7" when using 6" in the front or 8" x 16" with an ET of around 42, but that would be also somewhat tight, welding would be required to get the wheel housings fitted.
...I've already contacted a local racecar fabrication shop that will make a cage for my after I finish stitch welding my pan and bodyshell together. This is for increased rigidity.
-I've never heard from that "trick". We glued the chassis with the seals and with the housing, then you still can demount the housing using a heated wire, welding would be dramatic in case of an accident, as you can drop your complete car into a trashcan. Helpful would be, to weld inch by inch the point weldings toghether, to get the housing stiffer. I wouldn't recommend more.
...What did you mean when you referred the the "original bumper setup is much too weak!"
-The front dampener mounts, that means the top of the front axle, where the rubber mounts were, as the 12mm bolt, where the lower end of the dampener is fitted, they are both too weak to mount a good coil-over shock in between. After hard rides, both will extremely bend away!
...What are the "fork end bracings (cup bars)"?
-You know the CSP USA-advertises in the HotVW's? The rear bracings, that lay between the top dampener mounts, and from every top mount to the fork ends at the gear box, this is a cup bracing. There are several systems on the market. We've got a unit with gear box mount out of aluminum and steel.
|