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Old May 24th 2005, 18:39
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yetibone yetibone is offline
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I kinda eyeballed it with two broomsticks where the added on strut-rods would be, then used two string lines to line up where the heim joints would go with the control arm pivot points. I wanted to make sure they were in line with each other, so the steering axis wouldn't change as the suspension compacts.

The angle of the pieces I welded on, in relation to the control arms, weren't on purpose. That's just how it came together. The critical part was the bend in the added on pieces. They attach to the control arms with about a 5 degree downward angle, and have about a 12 degree bend upwards, halfway to the end so I would have full travel all the way to some shortened 1303 bump stops without the add on pieces hitting the frame head first.

Unless you're going to add strut-rods on to the stock arms like this, I wouldn't recomend boxing them in for strength. The stock suspension relies on the "twist" that the stock control arms have to keep the sway-bar from binding the whole works up. Without that twist, you'd be replacing sway-bar bushings every month, and would have a hell of a time putting it together because of the binding-up.

Another thing to stress, take your time, measure three times, and don't try this unless you're sure you can do it right, and without compromise.
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Yetibone
'71 1302S 1.8
'73 1303S 2.3
'83 928S 4.7

Last edited by yetibone; May 24th 2005 at 18:42.
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