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Old August 16th 2019, 16:58
Simon Simon is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 65
Originally Posted by H2OSB View Post

Ugh, sorry for the partial hyjack. I started my response with the intent to talking about an idea to deal with the camber issue.

First off, I tried Topline's extra eccentric inner control arm bolts. Then, I bought two sets of VW "crash bolts". Still I could only get about 0 degrees, and I was hoping for -2 to -2.5 degrees. Since you have the same strut housings as I do, you have a slotted top hole(incidentally, the Raceland coilovers I have on the other car have slotted top holes too). One day while staring at one strut any thinking about giving up on using 944 spindles, I realized the flange on the top crash bolts was big enough to limit the amount of camber I could get. I found a camber adjusting bolts made for 944s, by Whiteline(the were actually pretty cheap on Amazon). Suddenly, I had plenty of camber adjustment because the shaft of the bolts is 12mm, and, obviously, the camber bolts are made for the 944. So with the items I described and the Topline extra eccentric inner bolts, I'm able to get quite a bit of negative camber.
No problem at all regarding the "hijack" Nice to see you're so enthousiastic about this!
I'll post an update/my plans for the rear asap, still trying to figure some things out.

I just mounted Topline's Camber+ kit and it seems like the camber is fine now, still have to do proper measurements somewhere but that'll take some time since the car is now on jack stands again to get a bunch of parts cleaned and plated.

Do you mean these camber adjusting bolts?

They seem pretty similar to the H&R Triple C bolts

I actually have a pair of those but haven't tried them yet. Do you still have the stock 944 camber/slot at max negative at the top and then added the whiteline camber adjusting bolt at the bottom also at max negative?

Originally Posted by H2OSB View Post
However, I have another idea to gain camber, and it goes along with your idea to have longer control arms. Since you have 944 spindles, I ASSume you have Kerscher ball joints. It has ALWAYS rankled me that Kerscher is the ONLY source for those ball joints. There's a company in Germany called Mike's Boxer Service. He got around the ball joint issue by using early Passat ball joints. You just have to remove the stock ball joint cup and do a small amount of side clearancing on the ball joint, then drill two holes. There's a whole thread about this on STFs but I'm too lazy to look it up and link it right now. Bottom line is, you can gain length for the control arm by changing where the holes are drilled (within reason).

That's all I got
That's an interesting suggestion. Did a bit of searching and you probably mean this one ?
The last picture shows (a part of) the use passat ball-joint.

Seems like that setup is similar to the RX-7 ball-joint (see for example where the ball-joint is attached to the a-arm with 2 bolts. I always found that a slightly scary way of doing things, but since it is/was used in factory cars it seems to be safe.

I'll see if I can make something like this happen. Seems to be less work than fabricating a-arms from scratch. Thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted by Wally View Post
Great intro mate! Is it an non-import original dutch car?
Because of the same color (L91Z I assume) and even the Boxster BBS rims, I also see a great resemblence ;-)
'Wheels maketh the car', hey? :-)
Thanks! Tbh I don't know if it's an original Dutch car, I still have to order the "birth" certificate for it to be sure.
And yeah, it's atlasweiß as well Initially I wasn't the biggest fan of that color but it has really grown on me over the years and I really like it now. Will definitely stay this way.

And yeah, wheels definitely do kind of make the car and in combination with the color it does indeed resemble some other car
I don't have a sliding roof though

Tbh I have to admit I like the Sport Klassik II's that you're using even more than my current Sport Klassik I's, but that would maybe not the nicest thing to do, they would be very similar.

Originally Posted by Wally View Post
Like John, I also use the Topline caster+ inserts, they work great. Together with the slotted bottom strut hole where I used an eccentric bolt, I also get more then enough camber.
My problem has always been caster, so I used my top bearings to give maximum caster; its still 'just about' enough...even with the caster+ Topline front sway bar grommets..
Yeah, the camber+ kit does seem to work great, seems to give quiet a significant amount of negative camber.

Did you slot the bottom hole yourself? And do you also have a slotted top hole on the strut as well?

Since I was still trying to get the camber in an acceptable range I haven't been messing around with caster yet, apart from using Topline's caster fix bushing (, which moves the rotation/mount point of the front rollbar slightly forward. Will measure it when doing the alignment and share the results.
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