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"Pretty much bolt on" is a fair description but it will need some adjustments:
Rear
Use the 944 trailing arm and brake components as everything then fits without having to create brackets for mounting the caliper. The 944 spring plate also has a useful camber adjustment.
The handbrake cables (e-brake) will require the ends modifying by buying the matching swan necks or brazing the 944 connectors onto the VW cable. Using the 944T calipers and discs will mean using 16"+ wheel rims as the 15" won't clear without big spacers. I used 928S4 calipers on ours. Also, use '97 BMW 525 brake shoes with minor mods as they are 1/2 the price of the Porsche ones.
Front
Easiest way is to purchase 944 complete front struts as they are bolt on without any mods to the spindles/bearings/hubs. Use early 944 spindles as the LH one is drilled of the speedo cable. The steering arms will then require standard bump steer bushes (from a ball joint bug but check the taper) so the trackrod end enters from the top, lengthen the track rods. Use the special Kersher lower ball joints or do as I did - fabricate a new track control arm with the standard 944 ball joint at the end as it makes replacement a simple bolt on operation. With a fabricated TCA it will be useful to lengthen it as the adjustment on the 944 strut and the 1303 TCA gives a maximum of 1 1/2deg of neg camber. Check the piston sizes of the front and rear calipers to maintain a 50/50 brake bias. You may need the 944 stepped master cylinder to help in this respect. The 944 struts will lower the front end by a small amount but don't use the 944 springs or dampers as they will be too stiff. The 1303 ones will fit the 944 legs, besides the 944 legs are thicker.
Clive
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