1) Bowden Tube - My transmission had the same holder, and
I used it without any problems. Most of the build threads or install stuff you'll find online say to cut it off and build or buy a custom mount. I've instead lathed up a bowden-tube extender that goes on the tunnel (front) end of the bowden tube:
Thank you very much, I plan to relocate the bowden tube much lower, hope to start this weekend after I buy trans mounts.
2)
- Depends on what you're trying to modify? I need you to post up the full transmission code (found on the bottom of transmission) before I could determine if your trans will work as is, or if it requires any modifications to install in a beetle.
I'll look for the code, the guy that sold the trans to me said it was from a 912
When you go to install your 901 transmission, there are three things you need determine before you start cutting and welding:
- Location of the engine
- Location of the Axles
CV joints last longer when they're only moving through one plane. So, if you mount your transmission in a way that the axles are angled forward or back, you will wear out CV joints faster then an install which has them straight across. In a high-powered, high-traction vehicle (such as a turbo GL-look), the risk of weakness in the CV's might be enough to have the axle angles as the deciding factor of where your transmission should sit. I never actually measured the angle on mine, but they definitely sit on a slight angle with the transmission CV's forward of the axle CV's.
I will only be able to relate to all of these insights one I do my first rough fitment.
Also the 25 to 30mm foreward/aft shift of the trans assembly will effect 12.5mm on each end of the axle. Also I am going to use some 930 CVs
The other issue to consider is the starter. I'm using a VW Autostick starter, but it did require modification. We mounted the starter in the lathe and took .125" off the mounting face of the starter. This moves the starter in for more teeth engagement on the flywheel. Before the modification the starter was using about 1/3rd of the flywheel teeth, and would grind the starter on engagement approximately 1 out of every 3 tries. After the material was removed from the starter I get about 3/4 tooth engagement, and it grinds about 1 out of every 10 tries. After talking to a few 901-swapped guys they all admitted that this was common and accepted as part of the swap, but you don't really read anything about it online! haha.
some one said using a regular starter will work, I know of a company that sell reduction starters, I'll see if they have other nose or bendix lengths on the same platform.
5)
As already stated, there is a big height difference between the two transmissions and where the shift-rod enters. You will need to do the Z-Bend or fabricate another solution to account for the height difference. The Bugat5speed shifter setup drops the shift rod to eliminate the Z-Bend, which should make the shifting much easier on the side-to-side action. Anytime you use a Z-Bend, the shifting is going to end up a little vague. I'm considering redoing my shifting with universal joints, but this will require welding in up to 4 mounts inside the transmission tunnel to support the shift shaft. One of the other GL guys had PM'd me about my shifter, and I had sent him a bunch of comments on it. Note that my shifter is actually stock beetle with some carbon-accents. I could pull the carbon off, put a stock knob on and you'd never know it wasn't factory beetle.
I worked for the Los Angeles Unified School District as a mechanic. While there I have to replace several shifter u-joints and supports for the shifter rods. Those shifter rods came in three pieces and were about 18 feet long. Due to the supports, it shifted very well, there was only slope because of the support bracket bushing wearing; and as a quick fix we just rotated the support 180 degrees. You have given me a good ideal, thanks
Feel free to post here with more questions.
OK
-Dave[/QUOTE]