[owdlvr]

For most of my builds, I've got a notebook or similar somewhere that keeps track of what's on the car, and what parts came from where. But when a question arises while I'm working on the car, I often just search my own build thread. The Rally Bug is pretty well documented, but I've discovered this thread is missing a number of the things I wanted quick access to. So...here's a "what the heck did I use" post.

Brakes
• 996 Calipers front and rear. 1997-2006 non turbo calipers (and associated caliper parts: pads, clips, etc.)
• 1985 944 Turbo rear brake rotors
• 1975 Porsche 911 front rotors

Front Hubs
• Bearings are odd. USA Fractional bearings with an inner adapter. (note: need to cut new hubs / or get Lanny 944 hubs)
• Seals are SKF 15851 -> Not a common automotive seal. (Lordco for me, have to order)
• Front outer (with 'orange 73 hubs') -> FAG LM11949
• Front inner (with 'orange 73 hubs') -> FAG LM67048
• MUST pull out the inner adapter on each bearing (x4) and put in new bearings. Note they are about 1mm thick and may be "stuck".

Plugs
NGK 5129 (DPR7EA-9)

Shocks
Front - KYB GR-2: 343143
Rear - KYB Gas-a-Just: KG5529

Rear Bearings
Currently standard Beetle setup. However, I recently learned the trick to putting tapered bearings in on the rear. My car has the right rear consistently coming loose (like, every 15,000km) and Mark Huebbe suggested the taper bearing trick as the solution. After I bought all the bits, but before I started the work, I discovered the outer bearing seat on the right side had some damage from a previous owner missing with a punch and hammer. I cleaned up the damage, and tossed standard bearings in for now.

Should I need to go to the tapered setup, here is the trick:
4x SKF BR30206
1) Assemble the the bearings and rear stub axle dry. Torque nut to 200ft-lbs If possible, measure the free play with a micrometer, or just get a feel.
2) Begin milling the center spacer down on the lathe a bit at a time, you're aiming for 0.00 free play, but JUST getting 0 freeplay. Keep assembling, measuring/feeling, milling and reassembling.
3) Once you've got no play, take an additional .002" (0.0508) off the center spacer. This is for "bearing crush". When torqued, the stub axle will go from freely spinning to having some light drag. It feels like a properly setup front wheel bearing essentially.
4) Dissassemble, grease, reassemble, torque.

Problems
The 30206 Bearings will add 1.5mm to the track width of the car, and give 1.5mm less distance flange-to-flange for the CV joints. In my case, this won't actually work for the German look, unless I get the wider fenders I've been planning on. I haven't had time to compare the bearing specs to what is out there to find a different part number. But essentially the inner race width is the problem. It is 1.5mm wider than a stock beetle bearing.

Mark runs his without cotter pins, and feels that the 250lb torque will ensure the rear axle nuts never come loose...heck, he raced his at WRC Mexico with no issues. But I think making a nut with an allan bolt like the fronts might be smartest. Ultimately, if the nuts did come loose, you could damage a hub/wheel on one side because the threads aren't reverse-cut. The only thing holding the wheel from coming off would be the brake caliper and pads...

Double nutting with a thin nut would also work.