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Old December 8th 2010, 13:29
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evilC evilC is offline
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Hi, Nice work but a couple of queries:

1) Front suspension. Why control the caster from the top of the strut? The anti-roll bar controls the caster and locates the TCA via a squidgy bush that doesn't allow any anti-dive to be built in especially if you lower the suspension. With the accuracy that you are initiating with the inner heim joint having the bottom of the strut potentially moving around via the AR bush seems counter productive. The classic way of adjusting caster and tightening the whole assembly is to use a tension or compression strut. I prefer the idea of a compression strut as the inner pivot can be adjusted to amend the anti-dive. The AR bar can then be detached so that it can become adjustable. Its a win-win system.
2) Front suspension. Are the front struts Golf or is it just the inserts?
3) front suspension. Are the top mounts solid?
4) Front suspension. I think you should consider a brace bar and then look to cross brace the front of the hammer head to stiffen the whole body and therefore the suspension pick up points.
5) Front suspension. Consider dropping the inner pivot on the TCA to lower the roll centre to increase the roll couple.
6) Front suspension. Whilst lowering the tank lowers the front weight distribution I have kept ours as the standard tank in situ to improve the roll couple and keep the weight within the wheelbase to help with polar moment of Inertia. Similarly the battery remains in the VW position for the same reason.
7) Rear suspension. Are you intending to run a full coilover suspension i.e. removing the torsion bars?
8) Are you fitting a full cage? Its worth linking the cage to all the suspension pick up points as well as multi-pointing it to the body to increase the torsional rigidity.

Clive
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