Here's a suggestion, maybe not quite superman's idea of GL.com
but here's two ways:
No measurements to be taken as gospel, take your own.
I pressed two 6mm*35mm dowels 9mm deep into the rack itself. An interference fit is essential, a 'hammer in' fit is too tight, (unnecessary stress). Match a reamer to the diameter of the dowel. Loctite may be a good idea. Silver solder being my choice (heat necessary being insufficient to have an effect on the steel and about 80.000psi, much stronger than the rack. The grease is likely to ignite. ) A quality branded chrome vanadium screwdriver has just the material properties required for the dowels, a far better choice than mild steel.
The depth and surface finish of the holes is critical, to support the side-loading exerted by the stop during a shock-loading of the wheel, when driving on or near full lock. And not too deep to keep the area in check, as stress is load over area. The new effective area of the rack at the hole centre gives rise to a tensile strength well within tolerance. A good surface finish is essential to keep any stress concentration factor to a minimun. This requires an extreme level of caution and precision, as the hole can only be drilled ONCE.
My tyres are 215/40ZR17 on 7.5et52mm and the clearance is the required 'MOT inspectors fingers' and about 10mm when accounting for any possible flexing. Steering limit is now 2.5 turns lock to lock with '87 944T steering arms/stubs, so track rods need extending ~35mm. The turning circle is equal side to side and similar to that of a Merc Sprinter for example. I recall ~22 and 28mm being my measurements.
It is crude to say the least but it was all performed by myself, an Accredited Mechanical Engineer.
I've since devised a fully adjustable stop set-up on a knacered rack, I now only have to transfer the design to my '79 '03, which means taking the car off the road which is my only ride, and I got to roll.
This (unfortunatley) requires removal of the pinion and cutting and welding the tube as the plug is seriously pressed in.
I drilled out, reamed and tapped the plug (opposite end to the pinion) to M10, both axially for the stop screw, and through the hole where the M8 mount settling bolt was. This bolt it then replaced with 2 short M10 bolts, one from each side. The stop screw is locked with a nut.
On the other end, the cap is drilled to 10.5mm and a M10 nut is welded to a 3mm thick disc welded to the end of the rack. The stop screws are currently 150mm long stainless to be cut down accordingly when the modified rack is fitted and set.
The stops act on 2p coins bonded to new rubber snubbers. The dowels will be ground down and left in place.
Matt